Which spray gun to buy ?

  1. PaulHa New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Bury St Edmunds
    Hi my first post , I own a Triumph Vitesse saloon 1969 , I’ve owned her 4 years now and completed most of the mechanics and now time to address the paintwork . She was restored in 2012 including a poor cellulose respray , looks acceptable from a distance but close up shows poor filler work . Blistering has started in some areas . The stage I’m at is practicing on a spare boot lid and the results are not printable yet , plenty of practice in removing runs . I’m looking for recommendations for a better quality spray gun . My current one was included in an SGS compressor deal so looking to buy a better HVLP gun. The compressor is a 100litre 3hp . I plan to spray section by section eg boot , doors , sills etc . Most items will be removed and sprayed in a separate workshop . I’m using cellulose Triumph Valencia Blue . Can I get away with purchasing just one spray gun ?

    Any suggestions as to which gun I should buy would be appreciated .

    Paul F5953CAB-F31C-4E11-B4B8-F491C95E1751.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2020
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  2. Ruffian Member

    Messages:
    2,105
    Location:
    Devon UK
    Devilbiss starting line 1.3,
    Slg-610 can be had for approx £60 and is a cracking little gun but brought out the 620 now.
     
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  3. Make sure you have an output pressure regulator to limit the pressure to the gun. I once filled the gun up with paint and accidentally put 120 psi into the pot. I heard an odd noise and saw the bottom of the pot bulging out. I dived for the valve pretty quick before it blew the bottom out and covered every thing in black paint. I carefully hammered the pot back and it's still ok after 25 years. I'll never forget that "wump" as it bulged like a blown tin of Batchelor's peas.
     
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  4. Dcal

    Dcal Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,825
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    The Delvibliss SLG 610 was the gun to beat at the money, probably still is.

    Take a look at @Pigeon_Droppings2 thread on Project #2 to see whats achievable with cellulose in a small garage.
    He got excellent results and you could do a lot worse than follow his recommendations.

    Cellulose is very forgiving but a lot of work.
    I would suggest you use an epoxy primer under the top coat, it will give a lot of extra protection compared to cellulose primer (or pretty much anything else)
    You will need a decent mask but you would need that anyway
     
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  5. northwest

    northwest Member

    Messages:
    1,170
    Location:
    Manchester UK
    Why? The blue I get, but why celly?
     
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  6. PaulHa New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Bury St Edmunds
    Thanks for the Project link and I’ll check out epoxy primer , currently using Bilthamber Hibuild Primer . Re mask I am using an air fed mask
     
  7. Burdekin

    Burdekin Chief Bodger

    Messages:
    5,017
    Location:
    Aberdeen
    The Devilbiss GPi is the best spraygun I‘ve used, British made and is my go to gun. What I will say is folk will say; I used this cheapo gun and look at the end results, but the ones I’ve used are harder to get a good finish straight from the gun so you have a lot more work after correcting the paint. Get a reasonable gun from the start. The Devilbiss FLG5 is reasonable as well. I think SpraygunsDirect are hard to beat price wise.
     
  8. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,426
    Location:
    london
    Definitely recommend Devilbiss guns.....the one we used was 20+ years old. I got very lucky and picked up a job lot of spray stuff for £100 on fleabay....in the lot was a brand new (still in the original box) devilbiss + service kits etc.

    As others have said....2 pack epoxy primer is the way to go. Epoxy Body 989 is now my favourite....it doesn't contain the nasty stuff (but you should always check the data sheet before using any 2 pack system) so can be used with a vapour mask (like 3m 4251).

    I would definitely use cellulose again....in a garage its hard to keep the dust down so if you do get any minor issues with cellulose you can fix them because you can blend new and old paint.

    The other recommendations I have is the thinner we used for the base coat.....it cost a fortune but the gloss was amazing (I can find the name if you want it). Also dolphin fine filler...does the job that a stopper does but it's a 2 part mix so a lot less problems when you paint over it.

    I didn't clear coat....decided I'd rather have the ease of repair as I live in a city!
     
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  9. Ruffian Member

    Messages:
    2,105
    Location:
    Devon UK
    I have been using a old (vintage) devilbiss suction at work of late.

    Using vapormatic singlepack tractor paint,
    And even with that a presentable finish is possible off the gun.

    Tractor which suffered a fire bonnet left outside to rust for 10 years, attacked with 9inch grinder and wire wheel, then red oxide then a fair quantity of paint can have decent results (even when painted at 90psi due to no regulator :whistle:)
     
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  10. Munkul Member

    Messages:
    1,603
    Cumbria, UK
    I still really rate my Graco Finex, I used it quite a bit for bodywork and it made a better job than I had skills for, anyway

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. MBB Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    northumberland
    I have a Sata and devilbiss both suction and a devilbiss gravity feed I've never used for years. The chrome has started to peel on the Sata but I think it was the best gun it was HVLP. Also a couple of Aid that I gave away as I was never keen on them.
     
  12. northwest

    northwest Member

    Messages:
    1,170
    Location:
    Manchester UK
    That is a fair point. But you are doing it over and over again. Two pack, one shot, Farecla, Done. Sorry, fed my family spray painting for a while and it is all about time for me.

    I would however say, that a traditional cellulose finish is hard to beat, unless it is Tractol, applied with a brush and then polished out, nothing gives close to the depth of finish. Takes some time and elbow grease though and your prep had better be good.
     
    Pigeon_Droppings2 likes this.
  13. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,426
    Location:
    london
    Mine was done buy a guy who has been doing it for 30+ years....he could look at a panel and see stuff that I couldn't even feel. Incredible skill...I learned a lot from him but I will still get him to do all my paining because I don't believe in learning from people and doing them out of a job the next time round (unless thats the understanding from the beginning).

    My understanding with 2 pack is that if you have a problem you have to repaint the whole panel because it doesn't blend as the 2 pack is a chemical cure rather than a thinner evaporating. That might be wrong....but was the main reason I didn't use it. In a proper booth I reckon it would be excellent as you can guarantee not to have flying insects which show zero interest in your car until you put a fresh coat of paint on it!
     
  14. Domdom Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    223
    Location:
    UK, Warwickshire
    Check out the gun man on youtube. Aussie guy who does loads of tests on guns, paint materials etc. He produces some decent results and gives objective feedback on all the stuff he tests.

    Here’s a gun test but check out his other stuff.
     
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  15. PaulHa New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Bury St Edmunds
    Thanks for the link to Pigeon_Droppings2 , good read and lots of valuable info . Quick question how long do I have to leave my first spraying attempt before removing the runs and then cutting , polishing
     
  16. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,426
    Location:
    london
    If it's cellulose we painted it and then walked away...wouldn't work on it for a week but that's because I'm only down the garage at weekends.

    Cellulose is "soft" so it can be worked, flattened, polished after its dry.

    You can also do spot repairs and the paint will all blend together as the new paint has thinners which basically softens any paint already on the panel.

    The thinning is a bit of an art...as my painter explained...with the paint cap off it should have a nice flow out the gun. Sounded like nonsense but when he demonstrated I could see the difference.
     
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  17. bert Member

    Messages:
    388
    Location:
    Wiltshire, England
    I use a devilbiss flg5 with a 1.4mm tip. We use 2 pack exclusively and it's either PPG, Mipa or Valspar.

    I painted my own car yesterday with Mipa, I will flat and polish as I'm not yet skilled enough to get a perfect finish from the gun.
     
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  18. gt6s Member

    Messages:
    759
    Location:
    Newtownards Co Down Northern Ireland
    Keep your old gun just for primer.
     
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  19. PaulHa New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Location:
    Bury St Edmunds
    Hi , it’s got a 1.6 nozzle will this be ok for epoxy primer ?
     
  20. bert Member

    Messages:
    388
    Location:
    Wiltshire, England
    Yes but you may have to move quite slow, I've used a 1.4 for Epoxy and it was ok but really needs to be 1.8 or 2mm for primer
     
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