- Thread starter Kram
- Start date
Especially with no flood coolant.
brightspark
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might be just me but the cutter looks a bit discoloured at the tip and overheating 
doubleboost
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slow it downmight be just me but the cutter looks a bit discoloured at the tip and overheating
grim_d
Unlikeable idiot.
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Even a little cutting oil would help.
Agroshield
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You are doing very well.
If you are to persevere with milling in the lathe, it might be worth standardising on a cutter shank diameter, even if it is just for roughing/bulk removal, and then buying a single Morse collet to suit. It will reduce the overhang from the spindle nose considerably and stiffen things up.
The cutter is a simple cantilever and the deflection is proportional to the cube of the length, so halving the stick out reduces the deflection by a factor of eight.
Try and buy the stumpiest cutters you can find and even cut off the top end of them so the flutes abut the ER collet.
If you are to persevere with milling in the lathe, it might be worth standardising on a cutter shank diameter, even if it is just for roughing/bulk removal, and then buying a single Morse collet to suit. It will reduce the overhang from the spindle nose considerably and stiffen things up.
The cutter is a simple cantilever and the deflection is proportional to the cube of the length, so halving the stick out reduces the deflection by a factor of eight.
Try and buy the stumpiest cutters you can find and even cut off the top end of them so the flutes abut the ER collet.
dan.taylor.1
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Made a little motor shaft spacer from stainless the other day. Never had the tool reflected in the finish before, was quite pleased, shame it'll be hidden by a sodding great pulley!
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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Kram
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Yes too fast it was first test cut after swapping from 10mm. The chip was too small. Cutter fine its not discoloured but got some nice blue chips. The work and cutter were oiled thats the smoke burning oil.
Last cut only needs 6mm next I will use dovetail cutter to retain the blade. Tried 700rpm not happy
Faster was better
Last cut only needs 6mm next I will use dovetail cutter to retain the blade. Tried 700rpm not happy
Agroshield
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Yes, copper is not nice to machine. Razor sharp HSS works.
Is the handle not a little long and will foul the tailstock?
You were asking about a DRO elsewhere. There seems very little space between the saddle lock and cross slide so you might have to factor this in. I read somewhere of someone who put a DRO on a similar Warco machine and used the magnetic tape version and managed to put it all under the cross slide.
Kram
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Thats well hidden, I like that idea it would fit inside the cross screw gap, and be quite well protected.
Making up a mount for die grinder. This would be a great task for the boring head or rotary table but I had the 4 jaw in there. Lathe starts to rock at 500rpm
I am wondering if anyone has made up counter wieghts that slot over the chuck jaws and balance things out?
Making up a mount for die grinder. This would be a great task for the boring head or rotary table but I had the 4 jaw in there. Lathe starts to rock at 500rpm
I am wondering if anyone has made up counter wieghts that slot over the chuck jaws and balance things out?
Last edited:
Agroshield
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It is common in the books to note that if you are doing unbalanced work on a faceplate you should add a counterweight. Often the lathe's change gears are doing this in the old pictures.
I found the thread on the under-slide DRO, see: https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=142115&p=1
