Welding thin stainless with wood beneath

  1. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    Hey up,

    I'm building a very fancy animal hutch and plan on fitting a stainless sheet metal roof. Most of the stainless sheet will be folded profile, similar to the fancy roofs you see on grnad designs made from sheets of zinc.

    Where the folded sheets meet on the edges and at the front, I'd like to have the stainless TIG welded together for neatness and for durability. Downside it that the steel will be folded around a heavy ply sheet.

    Is it possible to weld the 0.5mm stainless steel without setting fire to the ply beneath? It doesnt matter that the ply will get burnt a little during the process, but the steel needs to be welded neatly.

    Due to the shape, theres no way the steel can be welded andthen the wood fitted at a later stage, the welding has to be done with the ply in situ.

    Thoughts? Can it be done?
     
  2. Paul.

    Paul. Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,088
    Location:
    Northampton. UK
    Next to impossible to make a decent weld with the wood in contact at the back, it will just burn and contaminate the weld and make an almighty mess,
     
  3. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    Thanks for the quick reply paul, what if I placed a piece of metal between the two to shield the joint? I appreciate it'll still butn but the fumes wont contaminate the weld this way.
     
  4. Paul.

    Paul. Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,088
    Location:
    Northampton. UK
    If you can slip a thin piece of copper in as a shield then pull it out afterwards it will be fine, it will help a bit with distortion too, I use flattened copper pipe for these kind of jobs.
     
  5. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    I could slip a piece of copper in and leave it there. guess that'd work?
     
  6. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    255
    Location:
    Cheshire
    Would tinfoil be likely to contaminate?
     
  7. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    or aluminium speedtape
     
  8. Paul.

    Paul. Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,088
    Location:
    Northampton. UK
    Thats what I would do,
    Aluminium foil and tape will likely melt and cause you just as many problems as burning timber, also you have an increased risk of corrosion if you are leaving it in there, you may even be able to use a stainless shield but try to weld the joint without melting the shield strip.
     
    mtt.tr likes this.
  9. Ali

    Ali Member

    Messages:
    255
    Location:
    Cheshire
    You can get sticky back copper foil. In fact I’ve got some if you want a bit. Does it have to be thick?
     
  10. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    Guessing it'n need to be half a millimetre or similar, to shield effectively, without melting away and allowing the wood fumes through. I could as a router to cut a neat recess for the copper to sit. As long as the outside finish is spot on. Anyone in North Wales/ North West England fancy a challenge?
     
  11. Tom O Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    Canada
    Could you route the edge back a 1/4” so it doesn’t contact the stainless?
     
  12. MoreWellie Member

    Messages:
    1,008
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Great to see such a serious discussion, sounds like it should be called Buckingham Hutch :laughing:
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  13. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    I was going to ask (in a Loyd Grossman voice) "Who's going to live in a house like this".

    @Mike B There just has to be a build thread about this one. :thumbup:
     
  14. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    It started off as a "You're not paying £200 for a guinea pig hutch wen I could ubild you something better."

    It's then turned into a palace, made from Sapele, twin walled, Insulated, with a twin walled insulated roof, hopefully with profiles stainless roof. As you do.

    All joints will be wedged mortise and tenon, mesh is 316 stainless, all hardware is 316, floor is 12mm hardwood ply which is replacable. The outer walls are 14mm Sapele T&G profile.

    It's turned into a labour of love which will no doubt end up as a talking piece! Hopefully it'll outlast us and will house many guinea pigs through the years, hence me wanting to do it right. Not convinced of my skill at welding 0.5mm stainless at a sensible pace not to torch the whole thing though, hence me hoping someone will take pity and help out!

    I'm OK at the woodowork, but the welding is still a work in progress!
     
  15. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    IMG_1959.jpg IMG_1957.jpg IMG_1955.jpg IMG_1956.jpg
     
    zx9 likes this.
  16. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    The archway between bedroom and living room is a solid block of Sapele, CNC routered to shape. It'll be rounded to reduce the amount of chewing they might do. All cross members and legs are 70mm Sapele which will also be rounded. All latche will be hidden so they "dont spoil the look"!

    It's getting a bit OCD at the moment but should look pretty cool when it's done. Hoping others onhere will appreciate the mentality of "If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right"
     
    Parm likes this.
  17. Mike B Member

    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    North Wales
    I could, but the idea of having the steel flat against the ply is that it makes it easier to form and it makes it less likely to dent or be damaged as it is braced from behind by the ply.
     
    Parm likes this.
  18. premmington

    premmington Member

    Messages:
    1,176
    Location:
    Norfolk
    I got fed up making animal hutches... Out of cheap meterials.

    Last guinea pig runs I made - I went for - full marine ply (not exterior ply) - and had the roof skins - folded out of galv sheet.

    I did not weld the corners - I folded an inner corner and glued the lot together with "roof and guttering" sealant.

    I also did the "bedrooms" double skinned ply - cored with kingspan.


    I keep looking at the Omelet Eglu stuff - it is expensive - but it does wash out with pressure washer - and would hope it would last a long while.

    (Not sure if I could ever come up with £700 for a chicken coop thou).
     
    Parm likes this.
  19. Brad93

    Brad93 M J B Engineering

    Messages:
    5,782
    Location:
    Essex
    0.5mm is going to be a sod to weld without distortion unless you’re experienced, let alone with wood behind it.

    Change the design.
     
    Turbo, Parm and premmington like this.
  20. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Get her indoors to do her bit then, and knock up something like this using her skills with a sewing machine....:D

    upload_2019-10-8_19-47-31.jpeg
     
    Parm, Seadog and Mike B like this.
Advertisements