That is unreal for a British built car! Sounds like it is a midweek one, so keep hold of it
Glad to hear its okay.
- Thread starter teddykan
- Start date
That is unreal for a British built car! Sounds like it is a midweek one, so keep hold of it
Glad to hear its okay.A few more repairs...
Just when I thought that the welding repairs were finished, I found this defect in the rear chassis rail. I was wirebrushing the wheelarch area to prepare for underseal and this scab emerged. I then poked my finger through it! Now, heeding advice on this forum, I cleaned back to sound metal around it, fortunately it had not spread too far. Then I used scrap pieces actually cut from this Daimler to patch the pieces in place.
I was actually thrilled to wield my MIG torch again because I felt sad that as the welding repairs has finished, so has the fun. By jove it felt great to zap more weld to repair this dear car. Enjoy the pics.
teddykan
Just when I thought that the welding repairs were finished, I found this defect in the rear chassis rail. I was wirebrushing the wheelarch area to prepare for underseal and this scab emerged. I then poked my finger through it! Now, heeding advice on this forum, I cleaned back to sound metal around it, fortunately it had not spread too far. Then I used scrap pieces actually cut from this Daimler to patch the pieces in place.
I was actually thrilled to wield my MIG torch again because I felt sad that as the welding repairs has finished, so has the fun. By jove it felt great to zap more weld to repair this dear car. Enjoy the pics.
teddykan
Stu.C
Member
- Messages
- 15
Sorry teddykan, it's not clear, but did you cut well back to clean solid metal and butt weld a section of nice fresh steel in, or did you simply plate over the rusty area and thus cover up the festering rust ?
Daimler patch repair
I did not make a butt repair - I just cut back to clean metal, rust converter painted the inside, then lap welded it to the edge of the opening. I know it's a rust trap and shall spray waxoyl, under pressure, to this section when the external painting is completed. May in fact do this once a year as the hidden box sections are actually quite accessible via the waxoyl spray probe.
teddykan
I did not make a butt repair - I just cut back to clean metal, rust converter painted the inside, then lap welded it to the edge of the opening. I know it's a rust trap and shall spray waxoyl, under pressure, to this section when the external painting is completed. May in fact do this once a year as the hidden box sections are actually quite accessible via the waxoyl spray probe.
teddykan
Hi, i see you have a transmig 140, they are a really good mig welder, especially for car body repairs, very fine wire & current control, had one from new...
what i can't understand , is why you seem to be struggling to weld with it.
this might be off a little, but it needs to be said, one should not learn to weld on any motor vehicle that’s going to be used on public highways, you may well think you have done a good job, for what i have seen its very doubtful in a number of places that’s its up to the job, if you have an accident, god forbid, you could find out how weak your repairs really are, furthermore if you sell your car and the new owner has a bump/ accident, even worse a major and it was redeemed that the poor quality of vehicle sub structure that had been repaired, as a result increase injury rate , it could be your ass on the line....either way….sorry for being so frank.
it looks as if you have not used enough amps, nor spend time prepping the work area, i have rebuilt many cars over time, full restoration jobs, even done a few jags, some of the problem why you are not getting good welds, its the oil based under sealer bitchimand however its spelt and the excessive rust you dealing with, if you don't remove , then clean with thinners making sure all traces gone, before you start wire brushing, angle grinding, cutting you'll just end up spreading it everywhere, i tried to link a few of you pictures to use as examples, but failed, it always worthwhile to cut back until good material, thus making for good welds..
have you replaced the capacitors in the transmig 140, they don’t last for ever, very much required to get a good arc running thus making the welding process much easier..
hope i have not upset you, especially as this is my 3rd post here..
what i can't understand , is why you seem to be struggling to weld with it.
this might be off a little, but it needs to be said, one should not learn to weld on any motor vehicle that’s going to be used on public highways, you may well think you have done a good job, for what i have seen its very doubtful in a number of places that’s its up to the job, if you have an accident, god forbid, you could find out how weak your repairs really are, furthermore if you sell your car and the new owner has a bump/ accident, even worse a major and it was redeemed that the poor quality of vehicle sub structure that had been repaired, as a result increase injury rate , it could be your ass on the line....either way….sorry for being so frank.
it looks as if you have not used enough amps, nor spend time prepping the work area, i have rebuilt many cars over time, full restoration jobs, even done a few jags, some of the problem why you are not getting good welds, its the oil based under sealer bitchimand however its spelt and the excessive rust you dealing with, if you don't remove , then clean with thinners making sure all traces gone, before you start wire brushing, angle grinding, cutting you'll just end up spreading it everywhere, i tried to link a few of you pictures to use as examples, but failed, it always worthwhile to cut back until good material, thus making for good welds..
have you replaced the capacitors in the transmig 140, they don’t last for ever, very much required to get a good arc running thus making the welding process much easier..
hope i have not upset you, especially as this is my 3rd post here..
irondarren
Member
- Messages
- 2,583
The answer is to clean everything correctly and properly then you get a good weld, MIG doesn't lend its self well to working on dirty material. you wont get a good constant weld pool. The welds will be as splattery as hell and your more likely to burn holes
A clean earth point & good clamp is also important.
If you are burning holes at the lowest amps setting you may have ground away the thickness of the steel which is why a prep that does not produce lots of sparks is better for thin car bodywork, ie a wire wheel or 3m brissle disc.
Try also pulsing the trigger to give the material half a second to cool during a bead.
If you are burning holes at the lowest amps setting you may have ground away the thickness of the steel which is why a prep that does not produce lots of sparks is better for thin car bodywork, ie a wire wheel or 3m brissle disc.
Try also pulsing the trigger to give the material half a second to cool during a bead.
