Weatherboard, Shiplap or Tongue & Groove...?

[The Z'eer]

Another area I thought I'd research before drawing up the plans for both spray booth and shed. I'd like to know the pros and cons of Weatherboard, Shiplap and Tongue and Groove as exterior cladding. Anyone care to share their views?

Thanks

 

[frank horton]

T+G unless it's free is a waste of space for outside use in the UK........ Ship-lap is a bit more expesive but it allow's the rain to miss the join and flow to the next board and so on..weather board is the same but what I know as weatherboard was a whole lot rougher finished than ship lap..........my preferance now is PVC Coated metal sheets, plenty of colours...u'll still need insulatuion whatever u use......but the steel is maintainence free and will out last u..thats unless ur 21......hahaha...
money wise if ur careful the metal works out about the same as wood if not a little cheaper........and on the plus side if u build next to a wall fence etc u'll never need to get there again........
good luck ....Frank

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Considered composite?
https://www.envirobuild.com/product...9ALzU8DGWZ98arFwPiKALJHpekVvtvAxoCTJsQAvD_BwE

 

[addjunkie]

My shed is feather edge board. Similar to weather board, except the board is tapered in the cross section.

My boards at 6 inches wide, at the top they are 7/8th at the bottom 11/4 inch.

Framining is 4x2 covered in 6 mm ply then a membrane, boards on the outside. Roof 18mm osb then onduline.

 

[slimjim]

You can get compressed concrete planks, from cedral or Hardie, not cheap though

It's about £25 per square meter, but non rotting, and in various colours

 

[8ob]

My shed is feather edge board. Similar to weather board, except the board is tapered in the cross section.
waldershelf
My boards at 6 inches wide, at the top they are 7/8th at the bottom 11/4 inch.

Framining is 4x2 covered in 6 mm ply then a membrane, boards on the outside. Roof 18mm osb then onduline.

Sounds like quality stuff , not to be confused with the sodden 6" gear I purchased from travis perkins that now measures 5", lost its lap and has curled more than a pringle.

Will take some snaps of it tomorrow.

Bob

 

[addjunkie]

I bought some weatherboard recently to build a chicken coup from. Couldnt get any tanalised from any of my usual suppliers. But its only about 12 mm thick planned finish. Looks the part but a bit flimsy for my tastes.

 

[The Z'eer]

T+G unless it's free is a waste of space for outside use in the UK........ Ship-lap is a bit more expesive but it allow's the rain to miss the join and flow to the next board and so on..weather board is the same but what I know as weatherboard was a whole lot rougher finished than ship lap..........my preferance now is PVC Coated metal sheets, plenty of colours...u'll still need insulatuion whatever u use......but the steel is maintainence free and will out last u..thats unless ur 21......hahaha...
money wise if ur careful the metal works out about the same as wood if not a little cheaper........and on the plus side if u build next to a wall fence etc u'll never need to get there again........
good luck ....Frank

Thanks for the advice there Frank, appreciated

I'm keen to stick with wooden cladding, aesthetics to be fair. I'll keep clear of the tongue and groove then.

 

[The Z'eer]

Considered composite?
https://www.envirobuild.com/product...9ALzU8DGWZ98arFwPiKALJHpekVvtvAxoCTJsQAvD_BwE

As alternative, that appears to be pretty good sadly a little more expensive than the wooden options.

 

[The Z'eer]

My shed is feather edge board. Similar to weather board, except the board is tapered in the cross section.

My boards at 6 inches wide, at the top they are 7/8th at the bottom 11/4 inch.

Framining is 4x2 covered in 6 mm ply then a membrane, boards on the outside. Roof 18mm osb then onduline.

That looks to be a very well built structure

Is there any benefit of feather edge over regular weatherboards?

Also, and due to my inexperience in this area, you mention your framing is covered with plywood, does the feather edge attach to this directly or is the ply on the inside of the building?

 

[addjunkie]

Basically its 10 ft wide sectional frames built from 4x2 planed wood, then this has a 6mm marine ply cover.ontop of the ply is battons same spacing as the frame. Over which is a membrane same stuff used on roofs. Then the boards are over that. From the inside you see the frame and ply. The plan was always to insulate with kingspan or similar, then line the inside, but a roundtooit got in the way. As all our wordly goods lived in the shed, while we lived in a caravan and rebuilt the house.

The base is concrete, with the walls standing on an outline of engineering bricks. Between the bricks and the wood is a brick work dampproof layer. The frame is fixed through the bricks into the concrete.

Feather edge and weather board do the same job, except weatherboard tends to be planed and about 1/2 an inch thick. I wanted something a bit more substantial and a more rustic look. If money wasnt an issue Oak would have been nice. What ever you choose make sure its treated befor you build.

If I were to do it again, I think the sections would be built and insulated with ply on the inside, then membrane and boards on the outside. Also polish and seal the concrete base when laid. It looks a lot different now, her in doors car port has a roller door as the chickens liked it too much, its also so full of her farmy stuff, quad and freezers that her truck wont go in. I also painted it battle ship grey supposidly to blend in with the dry stone walls, and the hardcore now has more grass than hardcore showing.

When searching on the web there were so many opinions on what makes the best shed, when a shed, a temporary building becomes a permenant structure, how to insulate etc....in the end you choose what you think suits both your purpose / budget and dive in. I travelled many miles looking at sheds and garages, there is some flimsy rubbish around supplied by some so called reputable outfits.

When adding up the cost of the wood sit down and take deep breaths!

 

[The Z'eer]

Basically its 10 ft wide sectional frames built from 4x2 planed wood, then this has a 6mm marine ply cover.ontop of the ply is battons same spacing as the frame. Over which is a membrane same stuff used on roofs. Then the boards are over that. From the inside you see the frame and ply. The plan was always to insulate with kingspan or similar, then line the inside, but a roundtooit got in the way. As all our wordly goods lived in the shed, while we lived in a caravan and rebuilt the house.

The base is concrete, with the walls standing on an outline of engineering bricks. Between the bricks and the wood is a brick work dampproof layer. The frame is fixed through the bricks into the concrete.

Feather edge and weather board do the same job, except weatherboard tends to be planed and about 1/2 an inch thick. I wanted something a bit more substantial and a more rustic look. If money wasnt an issue Oak would have been nice. What ever you choose make sure its treated befor you build.

If I were to do it again, I think the sections would be built and insulated with ply on the inside, then membrane and boards on the outside. Also polish and seal the concrete base when laid. It looks a lot different now, her in doors car port has a roller door as the chickens liked it too much, its also so full of her farmy stuff, quad and freezers that her truck wont go in. I also painted it battle ship grey supposidly to blend in with the dry stone walls, and the hardcore now has more grass than hardcore showing.

When searching on the web there were so many opinions on what makes the best shed, when a shed, a temporary building becomes a permenant structure, how to insulate etc....in the end you choose what you think suits both your purpose / budget and dive in. I travelled many miles looking at sheds and garages, there is some flimsy rubbish around supplied by some so called reputable outfits.

When adding up the cost of the wood sit down and take deep breaths!

Thanks for sharing the information there I'm estimating the cost of the timbers will probably be a fair bit more than I initially thought.

Ok, so the plywood is on the outside, followed by a membrane with the feather edged attached to it, thanks for clearing that up.

I wondered if it is feasible to leave out the plywood and just fix a membrane to the outiside of the framework then lay feather edge over the top?

 

[The Z'eer]

You can get compressed concrete planks, from cedral or Hardie, not cheap though

It's about £25 per square meter, but non rotting, and in various colours

Thanks for the info there Jim Sadly that's a little out of my price range.

 

[The Z'eer]

Sounds like quality stuff , not to be confused with the sodden 6" gear I purchased from travis perkins that now measures 5", lost its lap and has curled more than a pringle.

Will take some snaps of it tomorrow.

Bob

That's a bit of a poor show I have to say I was a little dissatisfied with the MOT 1 I recently purchased from Travis Perkins.

Far too much sand and larger aggregate, and not enough of the smaller stones. I doubt it'll lock together properly, but the job is done now. The MOT 1 from Wickes was definitely of a better quality.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

OSB 2 would work as well as ply but cheaper too.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

When adding up the cost of the wood sit down and take deep breaths!

Well, it doesn't grow on trees.......

 

[desmo11225]

Hello Gents
A lot of info there , I've got a job coming up next year for cladding a garage and was thinking about using Sweet Chestnut cladding , it gets some reasonable write ups , pictures of it looks good in a rustic area , has any one any experience of Sweet Chestnut. What a site this is you can get opinions on almost any thing All the Best for Christmas. desmo11225

 

[addjunkie]

Never used sweet chestnut, but have a red cedar greenhouse, weathers well and looks nice as it weathers, dread to think of the cost though to clad a garagre. There is a building local to here clad in larch, looks a dull grey now it has weathered in, suspect it may also be cost prohibitive too.
Back to weatherboard, my father used to have a holiday home, which was basically a posh shed. 3x2 frame with thin polythene over the outside of the frame, then tanalised weather board. Inside is lined with rock wool and plasterboard. It was externally reboarded in 1978 the summer I left school. Then in 85 a small fire, so this was when the cardboard type lining was replaced with plasterboard. The weather board where not burnt was removed and new polythene installed.

I past there a couple of months ago. Stopped to speak to the old neighbour. The boards are still in decent condition and have not been replaced. So bascally tanalised 1/2 inch planned weather board is now 40 years old and still looking good.
The shed I replaced when I built mine was initially the village school prefab built in 1919, so im pretty sure with regular coats of shed paint mine should out live me.

The polythene or membrane in my case are just to stop driving rain and damp from getting in, also reduces draughts massivly.

A frame with membrane over the weather board would be fine, just like any shed, but you could line with osb and use rockwool inbetween to keep cost down

 

[rosinante]

Chestnut is a very durable timber, wont' be cheap that' for sure , steel fixings will corrode and cause tannin stains on the timber, best use stainess , will go a lovely silver grey when weathered, post pics when done
Chris

 

[Olderisbetter]

Just my preference but i use 150mm x 2ex x 38mm rebated Feather Edge costing about £5 for 3.6m but as ever you need to check supply as i only use one place now as i i tried some others and it was just soaked till it dried out and cupped and warped, As ever you get what you pay for..