Waxoyl gun question

[Afterimage]

I've been playing with my new underseal/waxoyl injection gun from Machine Mart,and found it to be excellent for spraying cans of underseal onto the underside of my old Land Rover.

However,when I tried to use it to spray the inside of my chassis with old engine oil I found it to be a bit of a disappointment,in that not much oil finds its way out of the end of the nozzle on the end of the bendy plastic pipe.

I tried thinning the oil out with white spirit which improved matters a little,but it's still not great.I'm using a 2HP compressor on its max pressure of 8 bar.

Is my problem due to the oil not being thinned enough?

 

[malcolm]

Is it a shultz gun with an extension nozzle? Or one of these?

The shultz guns that run with the tin can containers can't be used at much pressure, and they are syphon rather than pressurised so probably tricky to get anything down a tube. Do you have a link to the gun?

Haven't tried oil in mine, and waxoyl needs to be thinned with heat so is probably less viscose than oil. Might be worth heating the oil up. I'm thinking of trying new engine oil in my Renault (rather than the old acidic type ).

 

[Afterimage]

It's a schutz gun like this that takes a screw on can of underseal,and I used old engine oil because I figured that anything's better than nothing - and it's free.

 

[malcolm]

I doubt that would work well for engine oil. A pressurised pot would be the thing for anything viscous, and those things work by syphon (at least my shultz gun does).

I'd try heating - the oil viscosity changes a lot with heating. Though be careful with pressure as the tins go pop much above 90psi and you'd not want to be sprayed with hot oil. Thin it a bit more maybe.

People complain about old oil, but while it can be a little acidic it does keep the underneath of a lot of '60s Brit cars healthy.

 

[drjim]

And old oil drips off, or out of the chassis via drain holes, sits on the road and causes motorcyclists to crash.

Inject the appropriate stuff into your sills/chassis - Dinitrol is good.

Jim - not a motorcyclist but someone who patches them up afterwards

 

[Justme]

More likely that its blocked from doing the underseal.

Justme

 

[Afterimage]

More likely that its blocked from doing the underseal.

Justme

It's not blocked,with the plastic tube off it'll blast the oil out really well.It just doesn't go up the tube so well.

 

[Justme]

Well its down to the venturi effect then. The flow / pressure drop & back pressure from the extension pipe must be stopping the oil flow. Needs thining / warming but even then due to its high weight to volume might still not flow well. If you can try changing the feed pipe bore size, the out flow pipe bore size & any nozzels internaly & externaly. Or get a upside down gravity feed one. Oh that made me think, how about removing the dip tube & holding it upside down?


Justme

 

[asennad]

Apparently you should never use used engine oil to rust proof a car - something about the oil being acidic after being in the engine.


You may want to try this recipe for Waxoyl I found on the web:

http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_21/waxoyl.html


"Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product. "

 

[ger]

I just stuck 10 litres of waxoyl into my fiat 500, thinned it with white spirit as well as standing the tin in a bucket of hot water.

I also used a Shutz gun. My MM gun came with an extension tube with a brass spraybar type nozzle.....Seemed to work very well

 

[Afterimage]

There's much talk of old engine oil being acidic,but having looked inside many engines I have never noticed any acid-related problems.

 

[asennad]

Not to belabor the point but it's not the engines you want to look at - it's cars that were treated with the old oil.

I've seen cars treated with used engine oil, they look filthy collect dirt and usually stink too.

 

[rtbcomp]

Not to belabor the point but it's not the engines you want to look at - it's cars that were treated with the old oil.

I've seen cars treated with used engine oil, they look filthy collect dirt and usually stink too.

Yes, and I've seen rust under old oil on Landrover chassis.

You won't see rust inside engines because the high temperatures evaporate the water off. In a chassis the water leeches the acid out of the oil.

 

[Charles Norman Daynes]

Underseal

Waxoil mixed with Shutz and applied by shutz gun is very effective underseal, been on my MGB for 15 years and still gets comments at MOT time, costs about £4 a tin , three tins needed for whole car, doesnt help with your box section problem though........

 

[Afterimage]

Not to belabor the point but it's not the engines you want to look at - it's cars that were treated with the old oil.

I've seen cars treated with used engine oil, they look filthy collect dirt and usually stink too.

I'm only using the oil on the inside of the chassis,so it won't look filthy and collect dirt,and It doesn't seem to smell any worse than usual.

I reckon that when I do it all again next year I'll buy a gallon of cheapo five quid oil instead of old stuff - it's horrible stuff and it's no fun scrubbing your face with gritty Swarfega!

 

[olnick]

Shutz gun not spraying well with extension tube

I just purchased a "shutz" gun to undercoat my truck doors and rocker panels, I have the same problem with not enough product coming out of the end of the tube. I'm using the recommended 3M product with the 3M tube, all I get is a dribble at best out the end. My thought is to convert the gun to a pressure system instead of the siphon system. The plastic 3M containers have a warning of not to exceeded 60 PSI (as the container may burst). My question is why do they put that on a siphon system? To change the gun over to a pressure type only requires a hole to be drilled up stream of the siphon tube into the high PSI section of the gun. It can be returned back to a siphon system by tapping and plugging the high PSI hole. any thought or suggestions on this?

Thanks

 

[joe666]

ive had one explode when the breather got blocked on the top of the shutz gun cleaning under seal off a new bmw and a focus for three hours not to mention me the floor, walls
warm the under seal up itll spray easier

 

[malcolm]

I've had them go too. Messy business.

Those shultz tins are troublesome. The contents settle in the cans and it's impossible to mix the sludge at the bottom back in. Try tipping the contents of a can into a spare container, removing the sludge from the bottom, then pouring the contents back in. Very good heat and you should be set. I've a tips page on shultz guns.

I think the extension hose is for thin materials like very thinned waxoyl rather than underseal.

 

[nickjaxe]

I had this prob with waxoil and a shultz gun, I was puzzeled as the shultz stuff was thicker than the waxoil,

What worked for me was to use a thinner uplift tube so he suction has not as much waxoil to lift, I did this by pushing a thiner tube up the shultz tube to make it narrower,

comments anybody.

Nick.