Warping of box section.

  1. CEJM Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Worcestershire UK
    At the moment I am trying to build a stand for my pillar drill. I am making this out of 50x50x3 box.

    The corners are cut to 45 degrees and after tacking I welded the outside of the corners first. Moving from one corner across to the opposite side etc. After the outside of the corners I welded the top and bottom of each corner, while the other side was still warm. I.e. welded the bottom of a corner followed by the top of the corner straight after. Again, I welded them opposite as before. As last I welded the inside corners with the similar method as the outside corners.

    The workpiece is within a mm of square but it has warped by about 3mm.

    What have I done wrong and how can I avoid warping in the future?

    Many thanks.
     
  2. waddycall

    waddycall Member

    Messages:
    847
    United Kingdom
    Depending on the length of the parts just a little out on the fit up could result in a twist. Can you not pull it out?
     
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  3. CEJM Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Worcestershire UK
    Thanks Waddycall. Length is 880mm and width is 830mm (sorry I work in decimals).

    Not sure how to best pull it out to be honest. I am used (diy) to doing thin metal welding but not anything of this size.

    Any tips are greatly appreciated.
     
  4. waddycall

    waddycall Member

    Messages:
    847
    United Kingdom
    Put it on the ground on some blocks and jump on it as necessary!
     
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  5. outofthefire

    outofthefire Member

    Messages:
    2,017
    Leeds
    I wouldn't worry about 3mm, it helps if it's clamped down to something flat. Personally I wouldn't have bothered cutting them as mitres i'd have just done butt joints and capped the open ends. I'd tack a top inside corner then the opposite bottom outside corner keep moving round till you've tacked all of them then i'd weld up inside and out then the tops flip it over and weld the bottoms.
     
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  6. R-D-R Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    872
    Location:
    Derbyshire - England
    I’m a novice and made quite a lot of workbenches last year from 40x40 and 50x50 last year.

    I found warping happens to a small extent no matter what weld sequence i used. I took to clamping it all down square so it couldn’t move which worked.
     
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  7. CEJM Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Worcestershire UK
    Thank you all.

    Unfortunately I haven’t got anything big enough to clamp it down to. Or at least something which is flat enough. To assist in getting everything lined up and squared I bought some of the fireball tool squares. They are not cheap but at the moment I haven’t got the space for a welding table. Hopefully sometime in the future.

    Once the pillar drill stand is made I want to make a workbench, so hopefully practice makes it a bit more perfect.

    I will try to bend my current project back into shape. Once I get home I will post a photo.
     
    • 971DFDA1-A32E-4597-9327-E814366C7B35.jpeg
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2019 at 11:11 AM
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  8. stuvy

    stuvy Member

    Weld it in smaller stages so the heat doesn’t distort it

    As above unless it’s critical either leave it or bend it back
     
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  9. outofthefire

    outofthefire Member

    Messages:
    2,017
    Leeds
    You don't need a table, I used to build wagon bodies on a couple of trestles, three if it was a long body. You won't stop distortion you just have to try and minimise it, and not worry about small amounts. Set out your frame check your diagonals to make sure its square then clamp a piece of box across a couple of the corners to hold it square, i'd only use something like them tool squares for holding a vertical piece. If you need multiples of the same frame tack tabs onto the first (if it's good enough) and use it as a jig.
     
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  10. CEJM Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Worcestershire UK
    This is the front of the first section. Haven’t started on the second section yet but I will be using some of the tips given in this thread.
     
    • 803745B7-FF7A-4BD7-A23F-59E48A2BD72C.jpeg
  11. CEJM Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Worcestershire UK
    And the back! All comments (good & bad) are welcome.
     
    • 6AFD89D1-328C-4A88-B538-23FA7CE222F2.jpeg
  12. outofthefire

    outofthefire Member

    Messages:
    2,017
    Leeds
    Looks ok to me, did you weld that cross bar in after or before you noticed the warp?
     
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  13. 8ob

    8ob Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,129
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    In the absence of a bench to clamp down on I would tack weld lots of diagonal bracing to the frame prior to fully welding and only remove it when finished.

    Bob.
     
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  14. CEJM Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Worcestershire UK
    The crossbar was welded in after noticing the warp. It was always in the design but maybe I should have tacked everything, including the cross bar before welding everything up.
     
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  15. outofthefire

    outofthefire Member

    Messages:
    2,017
    Leeds
    Yep
     
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  16. Morrisman

    Morrisman Member

    Something that always bugs me is warping from heat and welds pulling. I tend to clamp everything to something solid and flat when welding. And when welding a cross tube to a length of box I clamp another piece along it to stop it pulling.

    Small welding jobs I clamp to a large flat piece of angle in my vice.
     
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  17. CEJM Member

    Messages:
    17
    Location:
    Worcestershire UK
    D7C7D750-6412-40E6-92BA-BC7B2A804EC0.jpeg This is the second section which goes on top of the first section. I have tacked everything in place but now I am stuck on the weld sequence.

    What is the best way to weld this up whilst trying to reduce the warping.

    Unfortunately I have nothing big enough to clamp everything onto.

    I am like to be as precise as possible and I am not happy with any warping. However I come to understand that this might be a lot more difficult to achieve then I expected.
     
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