viceroy 280vs

[Wedg1e]

the knackered board

That could be repaired easily enough, just run lengths of stiff wire (eg the cores from 1mm T&E) in place of the burnt tracks. Common practice!

one question for you sparkeys, is it nomal to have an output from the transformer going direct to earth?

If it's a centre-tapped secondary, then possibly; depending on following configuration. Or it could be an inter-winding screen that should be earthed.

 

[chrisg3103]

well we have ignition! well.... a very dim glowing power light at least

never knew there was a light in the button till i took it apart and found a blown bulb, said 24v so i replaced like for like. think someone else just fired in the first bulb they could find though and i just coppied it get a 12v one instead and see if its any better

everythings working as it should with no crazy ghosts in the machine, one thing though it turns out the little arm on the speed adjuster is the wrong way round was wondering about that. this is it at full speed apparently

not quite......

but it does go

so now im back to sqaure one, second time lucky

 

[madkayaker]

good luck

 

[shenion]

Looks close to minimum speed as the belt is near center of the motor pulley. Does not look right though, should be on the outside of the other pulley if it is on the inside of the motor pulley.

Looks nice with infinitely variable speed.

Lots of work getting these old machine going after others have neglected them. Just put new spindle pulley bearings in my Atlas. No more "ringing" of the pully as it slopped around

 

[Pete.]

Your belt is too short, or you need to move the motor upwards. WHen the belt is at the bottom of the motor pulley it should be riding right on the top edge of the driven pulley. You'll know when it's at the bottom because it will squeak. Mine was how yours looks to be and was at the closest adjustment on the motor slots, with a 700mm belt on it. I changed it for a 750mm belt and it now has the full range. FYI the pulleys on mine are at approx 250mm centres.

 

[chrisg3103]

no the belts the right size, i had full adjustment before with the belt riding level with the top of the motor pully down to the bottom. had a look though my old pics (build diary actualy cam in handy )

this is the adjuster right after 'the incident'
the arm is the same way round. but i cant remember how much exposed thread there was on the shaft when it was at full speed, maby i just need to be brave and let it wind up to the end of the shaft

 

[chrisg3103]

well i found out why i wasnt getting full speed, there really was a lot of force in that break! the arm had bent, so i beat the s*** out of it!
the retaining bolt was also rather bannana shaped

full speed ahead!

nut is maxed out but i couldnt physicly beat the arm any more, it had reached the limits of what a sledge hammer and a vice could manage ach itl do, if i really wanted i could of just taken it to work and heated it with the burning gear. but weres the fun in that

 

[chrisg3103]

well its been a while and i havnt really dont much

so decided to have a go at making something up for a speed sensor, had a spare speedometer drive pinion from a rover and thought i would chop off the plastic gear and make a little wheel to go on the end. it can then run on a handy part in the cabinet.

state of play, made a new boss for the gearbox selector too but havnt finished that yet

making shavings, looks nifty with the shutter delay
heres a better one

and some floating alloy, the first of many many cuts alloy was free anyway so its not all going to waste the part the wheel is going to be running on was too big for a 1:1 ratio so the tachometer has the option of 2 pulses for 1 rev, just divided it by 2. had to take 45mm down to 20
annoyingly with this lathe you can not have a left - right feed and have facing from outer to inner without changing the direction of the drop gears first.

this is it set for facing

this is sliding, bit awkward whe the cabinets there. maby make a lever that sticks out so i dont need to open it up everytime i need to swap. also you can see on the spindle gear were im planning on running this thing, there are a couple of handy threaded holes either side too for mounting a bracket probably jacking holes so better use stubby bolts.

anyway, all turned down to size and a couple of grooves put in for o rings to sit for a bit of traction

and the finished artical. its about this time that i lost interest again and replaced my brake pads

 

[chrisg3103]

ok that thing went horribly wrong the thing was too small a radius to clear the teeth of the gear on the end of the spindle

so i got a big lump of nylon and made a 1:1 ratio wheel same idea but this time it worked, some pics with new improved forum galleryness!

i turned the gear on the end of the plastic speedo drive shaft to a push fit in the wheel

bracket is a bored out mini hub nut and some flat bar (waste not want not)

et voila! (bit of culture there)

pivot hole lined up with the original mounting hole and an elongated adjustment on the other side, just need to make a mounting bracket and buy the sensor (damn thing got smashed )

also adjusted the gib strips for the first time since i got the thing, good grief what a difference wondered why the dials were giving diffrent readings to the actual cuts. i need to turn a very accurate sleave for a new drive shaft so need the lathe in top form, so might actually get it sorted

 

[uglybear]

well bit more done
more gears

a point to note if anyones going to stirp a viceroy 280 gearbox (never know) imperial grub screws! sneaky beggers

another slidey selector

and the cover on

BUT its being a total nightmare to synchronise the dial and the lever 1 tooth out on either and it dosnt work, and the lever is a ****** to put on as there is nothing on the other side of the box to hold the gear it operates. so got to very gently slide it on the splines so you dont shove the shaft into the gearbox while holding everything else in posititon and pulling out the detent pin need a few extra hands me thinks

Hi ive just joined this forum as i have a vickery 280 vs and i was having problems .. i took the front off as i couldnt get one of the levery to turn .
as i took the fron off i didnt mark where i should have left the dial. i also moved the slide can any one tell me how what number i need to set it on to where i need to have the slide set to .. if this makes sence

 

[Pete.]

Yes I can answer that question quite well since I've had to do it.

Supposing you had not removed the front cover, to turn the dial you should have first moved the lever to the top hole (neutral), which would dis-engage all of the gears. Then you would turn the dial to the number you want, then move the lever down to that same number to engage the geartrain.

Since you have removed the front panel and possibly the lever, you now have to re-align both the lever and the rack and pinion for the gear selector dial.

Do the lever first (if you have removed it, which I assume you have since it's not easy to get the front off with the lever fitted):

Firstly, move the gear selector by hand so that the sliding gear lines up with the first gear on the left. Now lift the gearup by hand until it engages with the gear above. You now fit the lever so that it lines up with number 1. Use a long bolt to pull on the shaft so you don't push it back in when fitting the lever, and then mark the end of the shaft and lever together so you can easily align them later if you need to.

Now the dial:

With the slide still over to the left and the first gear engaged, turn the dial to number one and carefully fit the front panel trying not to move either dial or slide. If you get it wrong, you won't be able to select all the gears so go back and try again.

Remember, to change gear follow this proceedure (let's pretend you want number 3 gear):

Move the lever to the top position (N)
Turn the dial to number 3
Move the lever to number 3

Sometimes you have to turn the gears a bit to get the lever engaged.

That's about it.