- Thread starter Chris152
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That's great - thanks!Something like this bolted to the bench/solid item and then the outer sleeve, allows bars/tubes stillsons as required and heating while mounted...The ali or bronze will expand faster than the steel, plus once it's hot you could lift a bucket of water/oil/diesel up to cover the lower threaded part causing it a contract slightly it all helps breaking free the threaded part, heat cycling and soaking is the key here, patience is an absolute must....
And don't forget a liberal amount of engine oil around the top flange just after heating it, it may draw the oil into the top section of the threads, a bit smokey, but.....
View attachment 475925
Meanwhile - about 30 years ago, we bought mum and dad a fish kettle for Christmas. They died and it found its way into my house. Today, we unwrapped it (completely unused) and finally found a use for it. :-) Soaking in diesel, til we get a mount made...
zzr1200
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More diesel, cover it and leave it soaking until next week....
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Have you seen the price of dieselMore diesel, cover it and leave it soaking until next week....
zzr1200
Working at 650 ft on open steel work.
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Yep, filter it after use and use it again.
My lad was pouring it in - slow down, I said.
We'll put more in tomorrow and maybe give the shaft a warm up before putting it back in. (I'm assuming there's no real danger of it igniting? We'll be doing it outside anyway.)
addjunkie
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I use cherry, as Im tight.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Then you bring it to me.
Very relevant.
Aluminium and steel in contact, if galvanic corrosion occurs, then it's the aluminium corroding - and you really do need to expand the aluminum with heat - the aluminium will have "grown" due to the thicker corrosion layer. You won't be getting much in the way of any penetrating fluid, oil etc down the threads as there will likely be no gap - the corrosion will have filled and near enough welded to it. Been there many times with steel tubes in aluminum - shocks clamped into uprights where the fit was originally pretty tight, and shocks into originally pretty loose spring perches etc. Seen some where the aluminium corrosion expansion against the smooth shock body was enough to split the aluminum sleeve.
Bronze however - it's the steel that corrodes, and iron oxide into bronze doesn't seem to "weld" so bad. I'd still be warming the bronze to create the gap for fluid to get into. Several cycles of heat and letting it cool - not sure if I'd be shocking it with cold water, but when cooler the fluid won't be simply burning away before it gets anywhere.
addjunkie
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I use diesel for my recycling reduction fires….starts a far better fire than petrol, just harder to ignite. If your going to heat it, direct the naked flame to the ali bit not the steel, as ali expands more than steel when heater. Not in the diesel either.
brightspark
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drill a few smallish holes down the side of the sleeve in to the thread and fill with atf and acetone mixed ,keep; it topped up and it should spread through it its worked for me before
That could be a problem for him, there being a lack of aluminium to heat.
Pete.
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@awemawson had exactly this problem with his 60 tonne press. He soaked the screw thread and bronze nuts in citric acid for several weeks and they just came loose. His was in much worse condition than yours.
Mill scale versus Citric Acid
I have been promising to get this one done for ages. At last I remember. One photo. I mixed about half a teacup of Citric acid powder in hot water and soaked the strips in it for about two hours. The top strip had also been polished on a wire wheel. The rest were cleaned with an old...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
The advantage of citric acid is that it converts the rust to ferric citrate which is water soluble. Over time it can migrate out of the jammed parts into the solution thus releasing the part. Remember rust is about 7 times the volume of unrusted steel which is why things get so tight!
As Pete said I soaked the acme raising and lowering srews and nuts in abuckets of citric acid which a warmed up every few days. In the end not only were the threads reusable but so were the huge bronze nuts which would have cost a fortune to replace
Thread is here but not much in the way of pictures of the de-rusting:
As Pete said I soaked the acme raising and lowering srews and nuts in abuckets of citric acid which a warmed up every few days. In the end not only were the threads reusable but so were the huge bronze nuts which would have cost a fortune to replace
Thread is here but not much in the way of pictures of the de-rusting:
