- Thread starter RWH
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Misterg
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Well that's ethylene glycol which is what's recommended on the Technical Arc web page for the XC1000 cooler under 'Options and Accessories' (assuming I've got the right thing) albeit not their own recommended coolant.
Water cooler XC1000
TECARC XC1000 water cooler units. Quality British made products built to last! Available in 3 voltage options, all with same performance. XC1000-110/115V, £335 GBP XC1000-230V, £335 GBP XC1000-400V…
technicalarc.co.uk
A good few years ago when more modern coolants came out you had to thoroughly flush out the old blue coolant from a vehicle system before filling it with red or green coolant.
If the 2 coolants mixed they would react and turn to gel inside the system. It was quite hard to remove it because the coolant could usually take an easier route instead of moving the blockage.
I think that may be what has happened in your case. Did you own the cooler from new? A previous owner may have had red coolant in it and by adding the blue stuff the damage has been done.
You could try something like radflush for cars.
You really need to use any flushing agent hot. It increases the effectiveness many many times.
As an example I use citric acid to derust metal. It might take 2 days to clean something cold. But if I heat it to 70 deg c it will clean it in 10 minutes!
Find out the maximum temp the cooler is rated for.
Fill with your flushing agent heated to that temp.
Disable the cooling fan and insulate the radiator.
Let the cooler run until the agent gets cold.
Repeat.
Can you reverse the pipes on the radiator? That's the most likely spot for a blockage. An ultrasonic cleaner might shift any blockages in it.
If the 2 coolants mixed they would react and turn to gel inside the system. It was quite hard to remove it because the coolant could usually take an easier route instead of moving the blockage.
I think that may be what has happened in your case. Did you own the cooler from new? A previous owner may have had red coolant in it and by adding the blue stuff the damage has been done.
You could try something like radflush for cars.
You really need to use any flushing agent hot. It increases the effectiveness many many times.
As an example I use citric acid to derust metal. It might take 2 days to clean something cold. But if I heat it to 70 deg c it will clean it in 10 minutes!
Find out the maximum temp the cooler is rated for.
Fill with your flushing agent heated to that temp.
Disable the cooling fan and insulate the radiator.
Let the cooler run until the agent gets cold.
Repeat.
Can you reverse the pipes on the radiator? That's the most likely spot for a blockage. An ultrasonic cleaner might shift any blockages in it.
Good idea re heating the liquid first, haven't tried this. I can also reverse the flow on the setup, did that yesterday to no avail.
I'll try the heating method tomorrow though.
Worth noting it's only about 8-10c in the workshop currently, no heating in there, about -4c outside. So any cleaning I've done definitely isn't warm at all.
I also have a compressor arriving (but will try other stuff first).
Should note the cooler and induction heater were both brand spanking new. Neither had any coolant in whatsoever before. I've only ever had 1 coolant in it, plus distilled water.
Thank you all for your thoughts and advise!
I'll try the heating method tomorrow though.
Worth noting it's only about 8-10c in the workshop currently, no heating in there, about -4c outside. So any cleaning I've done definitely isn't warm at all.
I also have a compressor arriving (but will try other stuff first).
Should note the cooler and induction heater were both brand spanking new. Neither had any coolant in whatsoever before. I've only ever had 1 coolant in it, plus distilled water.
Thank you all for your thoughts and advise!
The water cooler is XC1000 https://technicalarc.co.uk/product/xc1000-water-coolers/
Filled with parweld coolant (an older blue recipe from earlier 2025, they've recently changed it to red) https://parweld.com/product/xtsuc-af/
Filled with parweld coolant (an older blue recipe from earlier 2025, they've recently changed it to red) https://parweld.com/product/xtsuc-af/
Totally different setup... but I've got a chiller cooling a thermoformer at work... it blocked up pretty badly...
Sorted it not long back with compressed air... blowing back and forth reversing the flow. Little bits shot out like bullets.
Once you get it flowing you need to fill with water and then blow out again... to make sure you havnt just opened up a tiny passage for air.
Also... I used to use car antifreeze water cooling computers 30 years ago... if it didn't get hot now and again it would start to separate/ drop out a bit like in your picture... could you pour some boiling water in and run it like that with the fan unplugged?
Sorted it not long back with compressed air... blowing back and forth reversing the flow. Little bits shot out like bullets.
Once you get it flowing you need to fill with water and then blow out again... to make sure you havnt just opened up a tiny passage for air.
Also... I used to use car antifreeze water cooling computers 30 years ago... if it didn't get hot now and again it would start to separate/ drop out a bit like in your picture... could you pour some boiling water in and run it like that with the fan unplugged?
Another induction user suggested this a while back, it seems sensible. I've had one a week but waiting on additional plumbing parts before I can fit it.
Thank you for sharing this, I'll watch out for bullets . I have an air compressor arriving today. Going to use it gently back and forth initially, see if I can get anything moving. Going to try and warmer cleaning cycle first as well.
Another user (of identical setup) was using it. It's broadly recommended to use a low conductivity coolant, which it is. Others use just distilled water but the coolant is meant to be better for all the different metal parts, and of course freeze risk if there is any (I should be safe as I have some insulation in the workshop). The induction itself is a generic 15kw single phase unit, widely available, they recommend either coolant or distilled water. From my perspective I feel I've done what was best for the machine(s) but it's not worked out well at all.
If I get it working or a new model, I'll definitely use a different coolant! Speaking to others who use theirs in production like me, having a second unit in shop is very handy so you're never stuck unable to work with a broken unit. I may have to do this, even if I manage to get it working.
Oh also, I've heard back from someone using an identical setup and coolant to me. He's used his a few months more. No issues, no blockages. So a bit mysterious.
Makes me wonder if some foreign matter (junk) in one of the machines caused an obstruction, which then lead to this issue.
Makes me wonder if some foreign matter (junk) in one of the machines caused an obstruction, which then lead to this issue.
