normspanners
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flexible hydraulic? or nylon? (as per truck air lines)
might have to be careful with QR if it is not connected or becomes disconnected it might damage pump seals
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might have to be careful with QR if it is not connected or becomes disconnected it might damage pump seals
Be a little careful when extending the motor case drain, if the backpressure increases then the excessive case pressure can cause rapid shaft seal failure. if extending the pipework it may be best to go up a size. QDCs can be a cause of pressure drops also, so make sure it is big enough.
Sounds like a fun project.
tinman123
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what bs id saying is correct.
it would be best practice to go up a size for the case drain extension, its not imperative but its a wise move for a small cost.
some 3/8 hydraulic pipe will suffice.
1/4 qr would do but id be inclined to use a 3/8 at the min tbh.
it would be best practice to go up a size for the case drain extension, its not imperative but its a wise move for a small cost.
some 3/8 hydraulic pipe will suffice.
1/4 qr would do but id be inclined to use a 3/8 at the min tbh.
Bill Edwards
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Definitely go up a size for the return. A lot of equipment doesn't have an adequate return which is daft.
It's not as though it's expensive, I don't know the sizes, flow rate or pipe length but going up two sizes might be good and isn't usually costly.
It's not as though it's expensive, I don't know the sizes, flow rate or pipe length but going up two sizes might be good and isn't usually costly.
Thanks chaps, good point about the QR fitting but I cant think of a better way to contain the oil in the pipe when its disconnected. The problem is that I have mounted this thing on the front of the Kubota and the hydraulic tank is at the back. I have posted a few photos, I have got to take it off today for painting and will post a few more then.
The drain pipe that is connected has an outside diameter of 10.5 mm as you can see I used a high tech alternative to test it, it took less than 5 mins to put whats in there.
The drain pipe that is connected has an outside diameter of 10.5 mm as you can see I used a high tech alternative to test it, it took less than 5 mins to put whats in there.
Your right, I have enjoyed this one - Although it's taken a bit longer than a weekend
normspanners
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Does the 'break back' still work or have you needed to 'soften' it because the top link looks at quite a steep angle to me to offer enough support when cutting high, also maybe a little ballast weight on the nearside might be good, one idea might be a separate hydraulic tank mounted to the cutter then an isolater drive which is a motor running a pump, the kabota' hydraulics drive a motor which is back to back with a pump that pump feeds off and returns seperate oil to its own tank in the same way as a pto driven one then you would have no issues with a small return flow pipe poss overheating your kabota's oil.
normspanners
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the old ones used to have an adjustable pressure 'break back' I believe, so if doing a hedge with barbed wire in it and it snagged it would easily allow the machine to break back, but if doing a hedge with thick branches you could 'lean' on it more.
Also by running two oil systems the heat generated is more easily controlled, because the heat generated by the cutter system, uses the separate reservoir as its radiator, but that heat is not transmitted back to the tractors tank, which after all will be hot in its own right.
Also by running two oil systems the heat generated is more easily controlled, because the heat generated by the cutter system, uses the separate reservoir as its radiator, but that heat is not transmitted back to the tractors tank, which after all will be hot in its own right.
I agree with you about the heat build up, luckily the Kubota has its own Aux hydraulic pump which is designed to run breakers/ water pumps etc up to 20lpm. Unfortunately the oil tank is quite small and I am not sure if it will act as a big enough heat sink, as I said earlier time will tell.
If I get another 4meters of pneumatic 8mm ID pipe I can get a push fitting to connect it to the existing pipe, what I need is a right angle fitting (lack of space) to connect it to the hydraulic tanks filler cap (dont want to drill the tank) Any suggestions anyone ?
If I get another 4meters of pneumatic 8mm ID pipe I can get a push fitting to connect it to the existing pipe, what I need is a right angle fitting (lack of space) to connect it to the hydraulic tanks filler cap (dont want to drill the tank) Any suggestions anyone ?
tinman123
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forgive me if im wrong but didnt you say earlier that it was an 8mm pipe on the machine for the motor case drain?.
and we were saying to go up a size for safety and to avoid doing damage to the motor..
but if i read it right in your above post your saying your going to extend the 10.5mm od pipe with some more 8mm id pipe to the tank?
id guess your 10.5 id hose is about 6mm id, but imo stepping it up to 8mm id is cutin it fine, if it is indeed just air line pipe material personally id be using 10mm id at the least.
id be playing it safe there mind, and the hydraulics are fairly simple on that machine but if and when hyd systems give trouble they can get dear.
your probably thinking that if thats all that came out of the pipe in that jar for 5 mins work then it ill do fine but be careful with the case return as we have said, its an important part of the schematic, more will come out of it when the motor is warm and more and more will come out of it as she wears over time.
thats just the way id do it, its your machine so its your decision at the end of the day.
nice job fitting it seeing since you wouldn't of had a pile of solid land on the front to work off.
the toplink dose look like its a bit close, i get what your at there trying to keep it neat id imagine and there is the possibility that the main mount wouldn't be any more strong enough anyways, if it was tho id change the angle of the toplink.
tinman123
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you mentioned about the breakaway.
the way you have it was straight forward but as you say, now there is no breakaway, you could come up over the top of the cutter frame with some 10-12mm flat shaped like an elbow cumin out as far as the original ball eye that was on the arm and put a bolt in it, it will still flex enough on the breakaway to do, add a few washers if you want.
would that work for you?.
what kind of a fixing have you on the hog, is it designed to take something, i know you can get front attachments for them so there must be mounting points somewhere, its probably a frame that mounts to welded bushes down her a bit but im only guessing here.
the way you have it was straight forward but as you say, now there is no breakaway, you could come up over the top of the cutter frame with some 10-12mm flat shaped like an elbow cumin out as far as the original ball eye that was on the arm and put a bolt in it, it will still flex enough on the breakaway to do, add a few washers if you want.
would that work for you?.
what kind of a fixing have you on the hog, is it designed to take something, i know you can get front attachments for them so there must be mounting points somewhere, its probably a frame that mounts to welded bushes down her a bit but im only guessing here.
Thanks for the input chaps, as usual I didn’t make myself clear. Whilst the existing hose is 10mm OD its actually 6mm ID. I though running it up to 8mm for another 3 meters would do the job – if you think that’s too fine I will run it up to 12mm with a 10m ID. The Top link was actually an afterthought (I like to call it plan B) as my original idea didn’t pan out quite the way I had hoped. I had based the original idea on this one but found it did not give me the adjustment I needed (well, not without a lot of work) Oh, and trying to fit the thing on your own was a nightmare.
I'll take a few photos tomorrow and post them up.
normspanners
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]
is that the break back stuck out of the front of that machine, it looks a little like a coilover ? coz if it is it will not work so well if the obstacle is lowdown as it seems it is designed to let the machine tilt back ??
also they have a massive welded upright to maintain stability I think the loading on your top link will be greatly exaggerated by the angle it is at because normally they are usually at no more than 45 deg ish in extreme none-working positions ie either at the point of picking up or at max height, coz they usually work in the 10-20 deg's
from what I can remember the old ones i fitted they had legs that dropped down to land the trimmer on when dismounting.
But as you basically have a fixed 3 point linkage,
you could do that by letting your tyres down to a few lbs , that would lower the cutter onto its legs,then to refit approach with soft tyres put your pins in then re-inflate the tyres back to working pressure, which I think would be better on the harder side whilst you have the cutter on for stability? so might need adjusting anyway it would just take few more moments to put more pressure in to let the tyres do the lifting for you.
is that the break back stuck out of the front of that machine, it looks a little like a coilover ? coz if it is it will not work so well if the obstacle is lowdown as it seems it is designed to let the machine tilt back ??
also they have a massive welded upright to maintain stability I think the loading on your top link will be greatly exaggerated by the angle it is at because normally they are usually at no more than 45 deg ish in extreme none-working positions ie either at the point of picking up or at max height, coz they usually work in the 10-20 deg's
from what I can remember the old ones i fitted they had legs that dropped down to land the trimmer on when dismounting.
But as you basically have a fixed 3 point linkage,
you could do that by letting your tyres down to a few lbs , that would lower the cutter onto its legs,then to refit approach with soft tyres put your pins in then re-inflate the tyres back to working pressure, which I think would be better on the harder side whilst you have the cutter on for stability? so might need adjusting anyway it would just take few more moments to put more pressure in to let the tyres do the lifting for you.
tinman123
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im with norm there on the break back on that one, the only place that would work is when youd be up full height , lower down your goosed.
she is designed to sit on the bottom of the frame there, when the original bar for the 3pt linkage would be on it would be high enough to hitch on normally.
your tyre idea id be about the simplest to hook it on and off, anything after that bar lifting it, mind you i did see an engine crane there iirc, would involve some ingenuity.
she is designed to sit on the bottom of the frame there, when the original bar for the 3pt linkage would be on it would be high enough to hitch on normally.
your tyre idea id be about the simplest to hook it on and off, anything after that bar lifting it, mind you i did see an engine crane there iirc, would involve some ingenuity.
tinman123
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your fairly ok with 8mm id but it ill only cost a few quid more to go to 10mm id, its what id use.
it might come in handy some other time for something else and you could be glad its 12mm.
i fitted a saw head to my own digger here a few years ago, she is piped for a hammer but i had to run a case return back, i used 3/8 as the case was 1/4 on flat face fittings.
i filtered the return from both the return line of the motor and on the case return, filtering the case return some would argue isnt a good idea but i see no problem with it as long as its piped right, you havnt enough to go wrong there to be worrying about filtering the oil from that tho.
your doing good work so far altho personally id like to have some form of a break back on it, what will give currently is probably the mounting frame id say.
As promised some photos, I haven't had much time to play today but should be able to tomorrow if she who will be obeyed lets me. I will revisit the break back concept and see if something can be worked out.
Materials used:
80 x 40 x 5mm box
80 x 20mm plate
40 x40 x 4mm
30 x 30 x 4mm
110 x 12mm plate
40 x 10mm
30 x 10
As for weight capability, the Amercians put a 3 point linkage on the front of these things which they state will handle 800 pounds. This little cutter only weighs in at 440 ish. 200kg in real money.
Materials used:
80 x 40 x 5mm box
80 x 20mm plate
40 x40 x 4mm
30 x 30 x 4mm
110 x 12mm plate
40 x 10mm
30 x 10
As for weight capability, the Amercians put a 3 point linkage on the front of these things which they state will handle 800 pounds. This little cutter only weighs in at 440 ish. 200kg in real money.
tinman123
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just looking at it there and only passing comment here.
its not too bad a mounting plate you had to go off, and you done well on the frame, a few things id modify personally id be,
id put a triangular plate on the top and bottom of your toplink bar cumin off the main one, it ill look to bend that if it get any chance at all the way it is i think.
its a pity there couldnt be a stay fitted to that frame there, would there be a mounting place for an eye underneath her or above the winch, something you could connect a stay arm to that would give extra strength to the lower frame.
to me its a lot of pressure on two bits of box iron just.
not saying it wont work the way it is, i just like some insurance on things.
its not too bad a mounting plate you had to go off, and you done well on the frame, a few things id modify personally id be,
id put a triangular plate on the top and bottom of your toplink bar cumin off the main one, it ill look to bend that if it get any chance at all the way it is i think.
its a pity there couldnt be a stay fitted to that frame there, would there be a mounting place for an eye underneath her or above the winch, something you could connect a stay arm to that would give extra strength to the lower frame.
to me its a lot of pressure on two bits of box iron just.
not saying it wont work the way it is, i just like some insurance on things.
