Tr7 boot rain chanel repair

  1. Cbr624 New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    I'm after recommendations for the best way to repair the boot rain channel on my Tr7.
    As you can see the chanel is part of the rear wing, and has rusted through the bottom and side of the chanel.
    I can form a chanel but am after the best way to fit and weld it in.
    My idea was to cut half way up the inner lip which is good and seam weld the channel with a joggled overlap which would be hidden, then grind the weld flush and seal the back. Is this the best method or is there a better way?
    Thanks for any advice!
     
    • DSC_0051.JPG
  2. daedalusminos Member

    Messages:
    634
    Location:
    Norwich
    If half way up inner lip is solid then do that but I would butt weld.

    But also consider how well you can grind, might be better to join on the main surface
     
  3. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,882
    Location:
    london
    If the channel is generally a bit corroded then it may be difficult to let in a repair and get a good butt weld in the channel.....are you replacing the whole channel or just repairing the worst bits?
     
  4. Cbr624 New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    Thanks for the replies, the lip is in good order so looked at butt welding but went for a joggle in the end as seemed easier (I've butt welded all other repairs but this seemed tricky to do), just need to weld it in now once I've sussed out how to repair the other end where it meets the rear deck.
     
    • DSC_0057.JPG
    • DSC_0058.JPG
  5. ranchero Member

    Messages:
    79
    Location:
    southampton
    joggle might be easier. but the butt weld won't have the built in rust trap.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  6. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Won't seam sealer keep the rust at bay? :dontknow:
     
  7. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,245
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    Can you take a photo further away and post it full size so we can see what your after?

    I wouldn't be too worried about joggling that joint.
    The rest of the car is full of overlaps so can't see much of a problem.
    Not sure you need to seam weld the joggle either, a few plug welds would probably suffice and will help keep the heat and distortion to a minimum.

    It would be worth treating the laps with weld through primer or a zinc rich paint to help keep the rust at bay.
    The zinc should provide a bit of galvanic protection if the seam gets wet and should slow down corrosion, but the object is to prevent any water getting into the joint so good priming and seam sealing after the repair is very important.

    Having said that, I tend to butt weld if I can.
    If you go with a butt, clamp a heat sink (a bit of flattened copper pipe or aluminum flat bar works great) behind the weld line and weld a spot a time, moving position as you go and letting it cool will stop it warping too much.

    Is the corner just a right angle or is there a bit of curvature in it?
    If it's just a right angle the fix seems pretty straight forward and just continue what you already done and lap one section under the other. (if you know what I mean)
    If it's shaped, just form the required shape on a vice, then hammer and dolly until it's a good fit and weld it in.

    See the link below for a similar (but much smaller) repair on my alfa, which might give you a steer, but don't stress over it and get stuck in.
    It's obvious you are well skilled and can make the repairs, you need to just make sure you don't cut to much out and lose the shape or mess up your shut lines, so if you aren't sure put the boot lid back on and check before welding the repairs in.

    https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum...he-brink-hopefully.81348/page-9#post-1341253a
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  8. Olderisbetter

    Olderisbetter Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,936
    Location:
    Wolverhampton
    I think Urchfab on youtube does a boot channel repair on his mongrel project that we thought looked quite good, If i can find the link i will post it.
     
  9. Cbr624 New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    Thanks for the replies guys, I've tacked it in after cutting out and repairing the corner where it meets the rear light panel, then started on the rear deck to wing (2nd pic above).
    Beleive it there are 4 layers of metal here!
    In order they are brace panel, wing, rear deck, inner rear deck. The brace panel had some rust and required a patch, to get to it the rear wing lip had to cut and the mating face 7 spot welds removed, all sorted now and new rear wing lip fabricated with a corner piece to mate up with the chanel I've tacked in.
    Only got a pic of the rear panel joint piece at the moment as car is spun around on the rotisserie to fit all the other junk into the garage, will post some pics tomorrow or Monday
     
    • DSC_0056.JPG
  10. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,245
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    Looks the part
    Also looks like a good candidate for a build thread on here.
     
  11. Cbr624 New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    Wider angle shot of the passenger side rear wing/deck/boot area and the repair in total.
    I've welded the rain channel in now, and wing repair section where it meets the rear deck.
    I didn't get full weld penetration on the top of the wing for some reason so ground back and re welded, all good now. Now to grind back welds and fit and weld the rear deck piece in,then the rear deck rain channel.
     
    • DSC_0001.JPG
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  12. Cbr624 New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    All welds ground back, pleased with the top of the rear wing which looks stock after repair.
    Boot lid hinge bracket repaired (now painted black) trial fitting this to theuunderside of rear deck/wing is a good fit, shame this can't be said of the repair panel for the rear deck itself which curves inwards too much by 5mm over the last 3-4" - looks like I'm going to have to modify it as there'll be a gap otherwise where it meets the rear window (I have checked it against the original piece I removed and the opposite side).
     
    • DSC_0007.JPG
    • DSC_0002.JPG
    • DSC_0003.JPG
    • DSC_0005.JPG
  13. Cbr624 New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    .
     
    • DSC_0007.JPG
    • _20190625_203920.JPG
  14. Cbr624 New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    Deck repair panel cut and a 5mm extension piece welded in to give the correct profile, then tacked in.
    I didn't use the whole repair panel as worried about heat distortion so kept it close to the edge removing rust area and ensuring good metal, anyway plenty left if needs doing again in another 40yrs!
     
    • DSC_0008.JPG
    • DSC_0009.JPG
    • DSC_0010.JPG
Advertisements