Tool and Cutter Grinder Build

[jordhandson]

Love it. Did you find the pulley quite gummy to machine and prone to surface tearing?

Hi Pete, as this is the first time turning ally, I don’t think I am the right person to say whether it was gummy or not, it produced some good swarf,

I don’t know if you can tell by that, the finish wasn't to bad,

probably the feed was a bit fast, it sanded well. I have only turned steel, and after trying to turn that piece of ram steel, last week, this ally block was like cutting through cheese.
Thinking about it, I did have to clean the insert off a couple of times, so I suppose you could say gummy is a good description. I use this tool and new inserts.

When turning it I did find a bit of a hole in the ally block luckily it stopped before the part I needed.

This happened I think has something to do with the gassing, I will need to see a few more melting videos, to see where I went wrong, probably timing. I have a bigger lump to turn as well,

I am hoping there are no holes in it inside, I wont know till I turn it, but heyho still a lot to learn.

Cheers

Jord

 

[jordhandson]

Well after 2 attempts joining this polyurethane round drive belt this morning,

I think I will have to give up on the idea, and get a traditional v belt. I followed the way its done in the videos ie melting the ends with a hot blade then pushing the 2 melting ends together, it sticks good but I think with the 2 inch pulley, the small radius is a bit tight for a 10 mm thick belt. Maybe I should have gone for a 5mm thick belt. Evan fathers stash of belt couldn't help me out today, it a very rare thing for father not to have something laying about.


On as positive note, when it ran for a while It did run very well, and with no vibrations,

its a bit fast though.

Probably a daft question but here goes, the motor I have is 2800 rpm and I have a 4 inch pulley driving a 2 inch pulley, am I correct in thinking the rpm at the spindle will be 5600 rpm?

I didn’t waste the morning I cleared up all the aluminium swarf off the lathe, that’s gone back in the ally scrap bin

nothing gets wasted, luckily I cleaned the lathe of steel swarf before I started with the ally, I try and save the different swarfs in different bins, as someone told me you get a better price for cleaned swarf, I don’t know if its true yet, as I didn’t weigh my scrap in this Christmas.

I also made the first part of the tool head slide, it clamps on the first rail.

Things will probably start to slow up a bit now on this now as I need to find some 75-80mm steel bar off cuts, so I am having the afternoon off.



Cheers



Jord

 

[Pete.]

Looks like it was tearing a bit. If you left it to age it would probably have machined a little better.

 

[jordhandson]

Looks like it was tearing a bit. If you left it to age it would probably have machined a little better.

That's interesting as it was only melted say a hour before I turned it, how long do you recon leaving it.

 

[Pete.]

I dunno it was just an observation I made once after welding some ally. It had machined ok before I welded it then afterwards was tearing up on the surface. I left it then as it was terrible to machine but went back some time later and it was a lot better - not as good as pre-welding but better than the first attempt afterwards. It was as if the structure hadn't fully settled post-welding.

 

[pressbrake1]

The anneal drops off

 

[gaz1]

just becareful of grinding wheels stick below there required full speed more for safety than anything

you apear to be using a 2-1 reference so would be around your calculation

but to be sure use this one

https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belt.aspx

extra info

https://www.hse.gov.uk/pUbns/priced/hsg17.pdf

 

[jordhandson]

After watching some vids, I think I found what I did wrong, in the excitement I put the fluxing agent and the degassing agent in at the same time, I also forgot to hold the degassing agent down and wait for the bubbles. I am still trying to find out what the anneal drop off is, is it when the temperature drops off.

I am going to do a print out of the process and fix it to the door for next time, I have done print outs for the speeds and feed, they are stuck on the wall be the mill, I have thread sizes and drill sizes on the wall, and anything else I need to refresh my head on, I find they are a handy quick reference. Also the next melt wont be so stressful, I find its always good to get the first one out of the way.

As the teacher used to say must try harder.

 

[jordhandson]

just becareful of grinding wheels stick below there required full speed more for safety than anything

you apear to be using a 2-1 reference so would be around your calculation

but to be sure use this one

https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belt.aspx

extra info

https://www.hse.gov.uk/pUbns/priced/hsg17.pdf

Noted Gaz, from what I have seen the rpm is normally specified on the grinding wheel label so that shouldn't be to much of a problem.

 

[jordhandson]

Ive had a nice quiet afternoon looking at grinding wheels, now there’s a mine field, straight wheels, bowl wheels, cup wheels, then there’s the abrasion, silicon wheels, diamond wheels, grey wheels white wheels even pink wheels, the list and shape and colour seams endless let alone the git then, there’s the quality factor is one better than the next wow, talk about a head duck.

My thoughts are to have the machine to be as flexible as possible, I am going to need a number of wheels, I can then add extra wheels as and when the need arises, or depending on the complexity of the angle to be ground.

For my new grinder I am looking at 100-150mm wheels.

As I got a birthday coming up and being in a large family I can drop a few hints regarding grinding wheels ha ha.

I was thinking along the lines of a 180, a 400 and a 600 grit Cup Diamond Grinding Wheel for Tungsten Steel, and a D76 flat diamond wheel for HSS I am hoping that should give me a good cross selection of grits to start with.

What do you guys with grinders reckon?

I have the normal double ended bench grinders one has 2 grey traditional wheels the other has 1 green wheel and 1 white wheel.

Advice Appreciated

Jord

 

[jordhandson]

The anneal drops off

Your gonna have to help me out here, press do you mean "the temperature drops"

 

[gaz1]

one grinding wheel then one cup wheel

not forgetting you can use 4.5 grinding disc wheel now

 

[jordhandson]

one grinding wheel then one cup wheel

one grinding wheel what grit then one cup wheeldiamond what grit?

 

[gaz1]

id say ask @doubleboost is the person to ask

 

[Hopefuldave]

If you're going to swap wheels often (likely...) you may want to think about having them on their own wheel hubs e.g. on a taper with a bolt to pull them on, so you don't have to re-dress the wheels every time you change? I'm puzzling what I can do along those lines...

I think what wheels (and how many) you need depends on what you're planning - HSS and carbide need different wheels, f'rinstance, and there's plain, cup, allsorts...

Dave H. (the other one)

 

[gaz1]

on mine i can use 3 wheels so far

grinding disc and white cup wheel so i can also use a diamond wheel as well

ive not gone through everything yet though

 

[Pete.]

My favourite T&C wheel is an aluminium oxide tapered cup wheel. I use it for sharpening milling cutters. TBH it doesn't take long to dress a wheel and you should do even if you swap it on an arbour.

 

[gaz1]

i liked this enough to take note save video and bookmark as well

 

[MBB]

The late John Stevenson who ran homeworkshop.org used to sell a grinding cd. I think his son who runs it now still sells them. May be worth enquiring about them.

 

[pressbrake1]

Your gonna have to help me out here, press do you mean "the temperature drops"

Aluminium anneals with heat which drops off with time or work