and don't forget the "don't put too much poo on, we don't want the whole thing!"
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Blobber
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It all sounds like it has the potential to be messy old job or jobbie!!It was my birthday on Saturday, hot on the heels of that, the NHS sent this as I just qualify.
They could have sent something a bit more cheery given the occasion - like a Nurse "o" gram
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Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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those things are so useful! i imagine you can swap the heads around so you can both squeeze and stretch something.A massive carver bar clamp, missing one of the screws unfortunately but shouldn’t be difficult to sort.
Now to decide if I even have a use for it
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They go for silly money on auctions...A massive carver bar clamp, missing one of the screws unfortunately but shouldn’t be difficult to sort.
Now to decide if I even have a use for it
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A Stuart Turner R2Y marine lighting plant. It would normally be cooled by water drawn from outside the hull, but someone has added a car type radiator and fan, I'm in two minds about keeping that or replacing it with a water tank.
Unusual feature is it has a chain driven deck wash pump fitted.
I wondered what the knob was for in the pulley until I worked out it engages the deck wash pump.
I suspect the exhaust may have asbestos on it
Unusual feature is it has a chain driven deck wash pump fitted.
I wondered what the knob was for in the pulley until I worked out it engages the deck wash pump.
I suspect the exhaust may have asbestos on it
JMS1972
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You could wrap the exhaust in modern heat proof wrap. That would hopefully prevent the existing stuff getting damaged?A Stuart Turner R2Y marine lighting plant. It would normally be cooled by water drawn from outside the hull, but someone has added a car type radiator and fan, I'm in two minds about keeping that or replacing it with a water tank.
View attachment 352633
Unusual feature is it has a chain driven deck wash pump fitted.
View attachment 352634
I wondered what the knob was for in the pulley until I worked out it engages the deck wash pump.
View attachment 352635
I suspect the exhaust may have asbestos on it
View attachment 352636
Nice engine will you be lining up with the stationary engines at steam fairs?
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Good idea with the modern wrapYou could wrap the exhaust in modern heat proof wrap. That would hopefully prevent the existing stuff getting damaged?
Nice engine will you be lining up with the stationary engines at steam fairs?
I tend to take my camera to shows more than engines, but I hope to have it out to a couple of local shows.
Fred Trevvett
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My brother was talking to an asbestos removal guy once and he said they just wear a type 5/6 coverall and ffp3 mask and then you can do what you like with it, it's not as bad as some people make out
Although I know some types are worse than others so maybe that advice only applies to the less deadly stuff
Although I know some types are worse than others so maybe that advice only applies to the less deadly stuff
James1979
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Depends on the asbestos I think.My brother was talking to an asbestos removal guy once and he said they just wear a type 5/6 coverall and ffp3 mask and then you can do what you like with it, it's not as bad as some people make out
Although I know some types are worse than others so maybe that advice only applies to the less deadly stuff
I am not an asbestos removal bod but the guys taking a roof off near where I was the other week reckoned the pigeon sh1t was worse. I spoke to them for a price on my roof.
They did say the pipe lagging needs proper respect so not sure how that affect op
Lazurus
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Just had the cladding replaced on our bungalow a test showed it contained a low risk asbestos but still required specialist company to remove . Quoted £1000 to remove and dispose. Upon starting they found under our soffits was a nasty type, required full space suits, positive pressure tunnels to be constructed and a shower unit for the workers. Total cost £6000 for one side and gable end. Air was tested twice during removal by H & S. Once it was discovered it had to be removed. Also found out that Norfolk is one of the few councils who will not dispose of the low level stuff, many supply properly sealed bags and will collect F.O.C and dispose. If it is low level white asbestos not much of a issue however get into the nasty stuff and becomes very spendy to remove
25.4_mechanic
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... a lot of stuff.
During the season, an good number of spring cotter pins are lost on the various devices and vehicles.
You then help yourself with whatever stuff is lying around - only temporarily, unless it works ....
And when you finally have to get to such a "solution", you have to deal with rusted (barbed) wire, bent nails or even more unpleasant material.
No more:
Although I prefer to use spring linch pins, this should improve the situation for now.
Similarly with wire brushes: you need them constantly, never have the right one there, send someone to the next DIY hardware store, get never the exact desired model, spend disproportionately large amounts of money and have to work with inferior stuff.
Enough:
Then I was able to take 1kg of mixed stainless steel screws and - oops - a pretty old big 180mm angle grinder from Fein was also lying around, you can not leave it behind, can you, that would be criminal.
It runs and that extremely powerful, but the time it would normally spend with soft start, it does firstly nothing and then starts to run at full power at once - then torque is really made tangible
.
A 60° prism cutter for 16mm journal drive:
A few insert holders - now the time has come for me, where it is no longer done with the standard sets for small money, you are looking for special holders exactly for a specific task and pay accordingly for it - if in my case for good used ones.
In particular, the holder for internal grooving I have wanted, if an internal thread is followed by a shoulder, you absolutely want to have turned a groove before, the thread cutting is then worlds more relaxed.
That I have now just come across the most expensive inserts at all with an Iscar holder is bad luck (or stupidity), the stuff is more costly but good, they say.
Some old, small , pretty V-blocks with brackets.
As much as I am happy that they finally found their way to me, but when first eBay.co.uk adds German VAT and then the German post office does the same again and then adds customs duty on top of the resulting increased price and charges their handling fee, then I wonder .....
.... I will get part of that back from them, but it will cost time and nerves .... 
And a couple of knurling tools, unfortunately so much bigger than the dimensions given by the seller ....
.... so it will be the self-build after all
according to @Lewis_RX8's excellent report HERE.
Overall a bit of a mixed bag, with luck, with bad luck .... but it should keep me off the road for a while ....
A wonderful weekend to all
Carsten
--
During the season, an good number of spring cotter pins are lost on the various devices and vehicles.
You then help yourself with whatever stuff is lying around - only temporarily, unless it works ....
And when you finally have to get to such a "solution", you have to deal with rusted (barbed) wire, bent nails or even more unpleasant material.
No more:
Although I prefer to use spring linch pins, this should improve the situation for now.
Similarly with wire brushes: you need them constantly, never have the right one there, send someone to the next DIY hardware store, get never the exact desired model, spend disproportionately large amounts of money and have to work with inferior stuff.
Enough:
Then I was able to take 1kg of mixed stainless steel screws and - oops - a pretty old big 180mm angle grinder from Fein was also lying around, you can not leave it behind, can you, that would be criminal.
It runs and that extremely powerful, but the time it would normally spend with soft start, it does firstly nothing and then starts to run at full power at once - then torque is really made tangible
.A 60° prism cutter for 16mm journal drive:
A few insert holders - now the time has come for me, where it is no longer done with the standard sets for small money, you are looking for special holders exactly for a specific task and pay accordingly for it - if in my case for good used ones.
In particular, the holder for internal grooving I have wanted, if an internal thread is followed by a shoulder, you absolutely want to have turned a groove before, the thread cutting is then worlds more relaxed.
That I have now just come across the most expensive inserts at all with an Iscar holder is bad luck (or stupidity), the stuff is more costly but good, they say.
Some old, small , pretty V-blocks with brackets.
As much as I am happy that they finally found their way to me, but when first eBay.co.uk adds German VAT and then the German post office does the same again and then adds customs duty on top of the resulting increased price and charges their handling fee, then I wonder .....
.... I will get part of that back from them, but it will cost time and nerves .... And a couple of knurling tools, unfortunately so much bigger than the dimensions given by the seller ....
.... so it will be the self-build after all
according to @Lewis_RX8's excellent report HERE.Overall a bit of a mixed bag, with luck, with bad luck .... but it should keep me off the road for a while ....
A wonderful weekend to all
Carsten
--
lotus_esprit_s1
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Saved this nice but unloved Elliott 8” bench grinder, It was in danger of being chucked out due to being 3 phase.
roblane65
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A bit more Festool !
a systainer 3 organiser with brad point bit set , long driver bit set and bit holder all centrotec and 60 25mm bits , I wanted an organiser anyway and this with all the stuff was on sale at FFX with a near £80 saving . How could I say no , not really interested in the 25 bits so I may split them of in sets and I need to get a few of the bigger containers os I can get rid of the black inlays .
a systainer 3 organiser with brad point bit set , long driver bit set and bit holder all centrotec and 60 25mm bits , I wanted an organiser anyway and this with all the stuff was on sale at FFX with a near £80 saving . How could I say no , not really interested in the 25 bits so I may split them of in sets and I need to get a few of the bigger containers os I can get rid of the black inlays .
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25.4_mechanic
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Please tell me: Is the large signal strength really that much better on 2m if you do it with converter, compared to a good VHF all-mode unit?
I mean the old contest problem when you want to
Thanks a lot.
Carsten
--
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I never used the converter on 2m just for PMR frequencies, I had (and still have
) an FDK Multi-750 all mode for 2m and it's very good 
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Arrived today... will nicely complement a small box of assorted Nikon-fit lenses I have kicking around. *
The FTn is the immediate predecessor of the FT3, which was the first decent camera I bought new and shot stupid amounts of trannies through.
This one's barely been used; it handles and feels like a new thing. Even the meter is working.
* including a 55 / 1.4 Rikenon which came attached to a Ricoh Singlex with F mount.
The FTn is the immediate predecessor of the FT3, which was the first decent camera I bought new and shot stupid amounts of trannies through.
This one's barely been used; it handles and feels like a new thing. Even the meter is working.
* including a 55 / 1.4 Rikenon which came attached to a Ricoh Singlex with F mount.
AKN
Master of Disaster
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The FRG was a good way into the hobby as a one stop solution. I started with a Trio R1000 as the review gave it the edge on audio quality over the others And at the time my main interest was broadcast SWL.
I traded it for a 70cms transverter after I got my ticket, regretted it big time, have got another since it still has an elegant simplicity to it ans is great fun to use.
