Would the pumping speed be a lot lower for viscous liquids? I guess it would depend on the pump design.
- Thread starter monkeymark
- Start date
I've got a few of these:
www.harborfreight.com
Similar sold in the UK - fast, easy to use. Doesn't seem to like petrol too much - if you leave if piston pushed down, when you pull the handle up, the piston stays where it is - I assume because it's swollen and seized. It comes apart easy enough to pin so it take more effort to do it again, but leaving it piston up, and/or squirting some WD40 into it, seems to work well.
Doesn't take long to fill/empty a jerry can.
Multi-Use Transfer Pump
Amazing deals on this Multi-Use Transfer Pump at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Similar sold in the UK - fast, easy to use. Doesn't seem to like petrol too much - if you leave if piston pushed down, when you pull the handle up, the piston stays where it is - I assume because it's swollen and seized. It comes apart easy enough to pin so it take more effort to do it again, but leaving it piston up, and/or squirting some WD40 into it, seems to work well.
Doesn't take long to fill/empty a jerry can.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
- Messages
- 1,349
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
They're centrifugal pumps, so the flow rate will be determined by the overall pressure drop in the system.
Without going and looking in Crane TP410, in a ¾" line I suspect that it will still pump viscous oil at close to the rated flow, but will find it much harder to prime itself.
If I put a smaller discharge line on, then the impact of viscosity on flow will rapidly increase, but it will put the pump off-curve and stress the motor.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,771
- Location
- UK
A very large resistor, 40 ohm, 200W. It will be a brake resistor on the mill VFD.
It's going to be bolted to an aluminium plate with some conductive paste under it, and the plate has a second hand heatsink off of Ebay bolted to it so shouldn't get too hot too quick.
It's going to be bolted to an aluminium plate with some conductive paste under it, and the plate has a second hand heatsink off of Ebay bolted to it so shouldn't get too hot too quick.
Unless you're planning on repeatedly decelerating the spindle far faster than it would slow with a conventional off switch, you'll be lucky if the resistor even gets warm.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,771
- Location
- UK
I'm going to see what it is like before and after wiring in the resistor, not sure what additional settings are there yet. It was a case of wanting to fit the VFD once and forget, I have the smaller version of this VFD on my drill and a braking resistor isn't an option, but on this bigger one it is so thought I would give it a go, curiosity got the better of me.
- Messages
- 14,704
- Location
- UK
Joinery is so much nicer then dirty noisy smelly metalwork 
I'm shortly (as in it's within the next 50 items on the to-do list) setting to and making some fitted wardrobes and drawers in a loft extension dressing room.
This came up at a farm auction, not quite as shiny as this, and missing a few bits, but fairly new and in good condition.
Its a spindle moulder so profiles timber, rebates, tennons etc. it also works as a drum sander and has a spindle to take standard 1/2" router bits.
I'm doing quite a bit more wood bothering of late so it will be a nice bit of kit to own.
Main thing it was cheap.
I'm shortly (as in it's within the next 50 items on the to-do list) setting to and making some fitted wardrobes and drawers in a loft extension dressing room.
This came up at a farm auction, not quite as shiny as this, and missing a few bits, but fairly new and in good condition.
Its a spindle moulder so profiles timber, rebates, tennons etc. it also works as a drum sander and has a spindle to take standard 1/2" router bits.
I'm doing quite a bit more wood bothering of late so it will be a nice bit of kit to own.
Main thing it was cheap.
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,286
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
did u get any cutter blocks with it 
big ££££
big ££££
- Messages
- 14,704
- Location
- UK
There's a box of bits with it. it was a bit dark to look tonight but i'll have a ferret through at weekenddid u get any cutter blocks with it
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,445
- Location
- Manchester UK
Well Ididn't really aquire this today but I cut the bits up to the exact dimensions I am going to be working to, courtesy of @pressbrake1 :
I get the curiosity part, but mill spindles don't usually have that much weight/inertia and are usually fairly draggy, so don't take that much to slow.
Main setting that will affect whether the resistor gets used, is the deceleration time.
Too fast, and the VFD needs to dump energy to avoid the internal DC bus voltage going too high, which it'll either do via it's internal resistor, or external resistor if one is fitted.
If the excess energy can't be dumped fast enough, and the internal voltage goes too high, the VFD will usually just fault out, and let the motor/spindle coast to a halt.
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,259
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
I had to fit a resistor on my Elliott TV2 mill when using my big fly cutter as it would trip the VFD out.
I could not feel any heat on the resistor once it was fitted and the mill powered down.
As @m_c said, you probably won't need any extra cooling measures.
They're also very good at removing fingers and flesh, so be careful.Joinery is so much nicer then dirty noisy smelly metalwork
I'm shortly (as in it's within the next 50 items on the to-do list) setting to and making some fitted wardrobes and drawers in a loft extension dressing room.
This came up at a farm auction, not quite as shiny as this, and missing a few bits, but fairly new and in good condition.
Its a spindle moulder so profiles timber, rebates, tennons etc. it also works as a drum sander and has a spindle to take standard 1/2" router bits.
I'm doing quite a bit more wood bothering of late so it will be a nice bit of kit to own.
Main thing it was cheap.
View attachment 471911
If I'm talking to a joiner and I notice a butchered hand I will sometimes enquire and its nearly always a spindle moulder that caused the injury!
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,886
- Location
- Kent, UK
Today I acquired - a chopping block for cutting logs for my log burner, ans also a memento from the job Ive been doing for the past 3 months.
This is a timber fender from a lighthouse we've removed from the sea bed which was built in 1970. I cut 2 chunks out of it with my £15 bargain chainsaw that I got a couple of weeks back. It's some kind of very dense hardwood either greenheart or balau. I know it took some cutting
This is a timber fender from a lighthouse we've removed from the sea bed which was built in 1970. I cut 2 chunks out of it with my £15 bargain chainsaw that I got a couple of weeks back. It's some kind of very dense hardwood either greenheart or balau. I know it took some cutting
123hotchef
Member
- Messages
- 14,348
- Location
- Kent
nice! is there any going spare I would like a square chopping block, my round is falling apart after 8 years
Dcal
Member
- Messages
- 4,063
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Well done on getting your job finished @Pete.
It's Greenheart.
Not great for a chopping block because it splits easily, but you can put a steel strap around it to hold it together.
It's evil stuff if you get a splinter, and it does burn very well, but that would be shameful.
It would make a great anvil stand though.
It's Greenheart.
Not great for a chopping block because it splits easily, but you can put a steel strap around it to hold it together.
It's evil stuff if you get a splinter, and it does burn very well, but that would be shameful.
It would make a great anvil stand though.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
- Messages
- 1,349
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Assuming you don't have a TCT chain you must really love sharpening!
Greenheart is fantastic stuff, but it's hellish on tools, I once had the pleasure of re-sawing several balks of it down as part of my part-time job at uni... It would blunting the stellite tipped sawbands at a rate many times faster than anything I'd seen (or have since).
After a very unproductive saturday doing more band changes than sawing, I and the toolroom supervisor convinced the operations manager to ring the saw doctor we used and have one of the TCT sawbands that was in for resharpening profiled to have a much smaller rake and relief angles.
Running those blades at a much higher speed than you normally would for the TPI, and the feed unit on dead slow, did a much better job.
But it was making type 3 chips like a router, or machining "gummy" metals, as opposed to the type 2 chips you'd normally want to form when sawing wood.
That was my introduction to chip formation theory, courtesy of the long suffering toolroom supervisor.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
- Messages
- 1,349
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
Talking of bandsaws, something a bit more manageable than the ok 36" Robinson re-saw I used to run turned up in the mail this morning:
Breaking the cardinal rule of power tools by having more than one battery system in the workshop, but it was going spare so it seemed churlish not to accept it.
Have ordered a Hikoki-Makita battery converter for convenience, But...
I also picked up a Hikoki charger, I'm in the market for a ¾" battery impact, and the Hikoki WR36DFQ4 is just way better value for money than the Makita DTW1001, which are both more powerful than the Milwaukee equivalent.
This way madness lies!
Breaking the cardinal rule of power tools by having more than one battery system in the workshop, but it was going spare so it seemed churlish not to accept it.
Have ordered a Hikoki-Makita battery converter for convenience, But...
I also picked up a Hikoki charger, I'm in the market for a ¾" battery impact, and the Hikoki WR36DFQ4 is just way better value for money than the Makita DTW1001, which are both more powerful than the Milwaukee equivalent.
This way madness lies!
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Use a small three or four litre Killer-spray bottle & lance , remove the spray nozzle by carefully cutting it off , gently curve the end to get in the filler hole .. beauty of this is you can see the oil level at the start and judge when it filled the machine as required .
