Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,850
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Thought this was worth £25 so grabbed it. Rusty but working
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Rust removed and oiled - good enough
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This one from the bin at work, broken sliding jaw (crack at end of slider below jaw face). Will try to get a second hand jaw, if not a good doorstop!
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I have one like that, broken completely off in the same place. It has been brazed together although the jaws were out of parallel, so I milled both sides and made new jaws. There are photos on here somewhere.Thought this was worth £25 so grabbed it. Rusty but working
View attachment 320097
View attachment 320098
Rust removed and oiled - good enough
View attachment 320090View attachment 320091
This one from the bin at work, broken sliding jaw (crack at end of slider below jaw face). Will try to get a second hand jaw, if not a good doorstop!
View attachment 320096
Thanks Geoff. I was going to ask about welding it but thought that you need to arc instead of mig, and I'm arclessI have one like that, broken completely off in the same place. It has been brazed together although the jaws were out of parallel, so I milled both sides and made new jaws. There are photos on here somewhere.
I would weld or braze that one and it should give good service
I bought a pair of heel bars like that , not hopefully same make because as soon as I used mine in anger ,well just prying a bearing off the toes cracked straight off, they were just cast carp , so I would try them on something before you actually need them if I were you.Got these lever bars and this tapping head off @northwest, thanks GrahamI might set it up in the pillar drill tomorrow and have a play.
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Okay thanks for that, they’re Kennedy ones so hopefully not too badI bought a pair of heel bars like that , not hopefully same make because as soon as I used mine in anger ,well just prying a bearing off the toes cracked straight off, they were just cast carp , so I would try them on something before you actually need them if I were you.
This one is on ebay for £38.87 or make an offer. I offered £35 and got it for £36. I will give it a try today, it feels so light there's probably nothing inside the case.
~£33 hereInterestingly, there's the same model number on Banggood for £36 but it has no amperage display meter. I've very close to hitting but as just back from the pub and happy.
[£58.03]miniGB ZX7-200 220V 200A Mini Electric Welding Machine IGBT DC Inverter ARC MMA Stick Welder 220V Professional Tools from Tools on banggood
https://banggood.app.link/874GIRNMllb[£58.03]miniGB ZX7-200 220V 200A Mini Electric Welding Machine IGBT DC Inverter ARC MMA Stick Welder 220V Professional Tools from Tools on banggood
Just don't buy the same touch controller modules I did to fix the kids' touch lamps, every time the bulb blows it takes the controller with it. £1.50 for a new bulb + a tenner for a new module got annoying after a while. If anybody makes a controller that's a bit more robust I'm all ears. The cheapies don't work properly with LED bulbs either.Use one of the small capacitance switches where you just touch the metal body , the capacitance between you and the lamp body changes so it switches on , touch it again and it goes brighter till after three or four touches it goes out ready for the next cycle .
Any plans for it?
Probably doesn't have a thermal overload going by their use of the slow blow fuseThe current meter over reads by a good 80amps showing 210 flat out which I reckon is actually about 130. But it works and ran 10x 3.2mm rods in a row without cutting out flat out. The welding leads were smoking though. View attachment 320239View attachment 320240
I would have thought a 13amp fuse would be cheaper than that slug!No words to describe that plug.
Why do we let them get away with it?