TIG welding beginner, a few quick questions.

[Drains]

Have you tried just running a bead along a piece of steel? Does the tungtsen still ball?

When you re grind, are you knocking off the old contaminated end or just regrinding the oxidised area (sure to end in tears)?

Are you remembering to turn the valve on before you strike the arc? (sorry if this seems like a patronising question, but I forget far too often)

Are you SURE you have electrode negative?

Si

 

[snowcat]

It is pure argon I take it????? there certainly sounds like some'thin simple wrong......

 

[Weldingartisan]

I'm confused about the 5mm ceramic cup - do you mean a No.5 cup? That would be about right for a 1.6 tungsten. From memory (not that reliable these days) the cup diameter should be 8 times the tungsten diameter. W/A

 

[Rick]

Rick can you give us a full list of parameters, Precise amps, Machine, Gas flow, Reg type, grade of pipe, fillers, torch, tungsten dia, prep etc anything else you can think of, The more we know the more we can help......

I usually weld on between 75 and 80 amps.

It's a lincoln electric inverter welder. Can't remember the exact model. But there's not much to change on it apart from "Soft" "crisp" and "lift tig" mode. I use lift tig not sure if thats correct?
Only other thing to adjust is current.

Gas flow i've been using was 15 cfm.
Reg type is just something from machine mart, it tells you flow and pressure in bottle.

304 grade stainless, sometimes 316, filler rod to suit.

Torch is a lincoln electric 1, sorry don't know anything more about it.

Tungsten is 1.6mm now i'm thinking i'l measure that later though.

No prep work other than a quick wipe over as the pipe's are brand new.

 

[Rick]

Have you tried just running a bead along a piece of steel? Does the tungtsen still ball?

When you re grind, are you knocking off the old contaminated end or just regrinding the oxidised area (sure to end in tears)?

Are you remembering to turn the valve on before you strike the arc? (sorry if this seems like a patronising question, but I forget far too often)

Are you SURE you have electrode negative?

Si

I grind it down a little bit, maybe like 5mm then i regrind from there.

Yes I usually leave it a couple of seconds with the gas flowing before starting the arc.

Yes 100% on the electrode been neg.

 

[Rick]

It is pure argon I take it????? there certainly sounds like some'thin simple wrong......

Ye pure argon from boc.

I'm confused about the 5mm ceramic cup - do you mean a No.5 cup? That would be about right for a 1.6 tungsten. From memory (not that reliable these days) the cup diameter should be 8 times the tungsten diameter. W/A

Sorry yes it's number 5 and thanks for that info.

The welding isn't terrible, i mean i am getting somewhere, it just seem's to be a little un reliable especially in the corners and the gas flow has to be really high.

 

[Drains]

Gas flow i've been using was 15 cfm.

Er, I read that as 425 Litre/min. You'll have an empty bottle by now then?

It should be about 7 Litres per minute...
I'm guessing you mean LPM, but it's still twice as much as it should be.

I reckon your problem is contaminated tungstens. You need to snap off the contamination (put tungsten against edge of bench, at point of contamination and tap with something, it'll break off) and regrind.

If you dont do this, your tungsten is still contaminated, and will ball up, spit little sparks, overheat at the tip, give a crappy arc, give a funny arc colour etc etc etc.

Being stingy with the tungsten will cost you in the long run. Be prepared to go through a couple, until you've got the hang of not buggering them up. As you learn, they will last longer and longer.

 

[Rick]

Er, I read that as 425 Litre/min. You'll have an empty bottle by now then?

It should be about 7 Litres per minute...
I'm guessing you mean LPM, but it's still twice as much as it should be.

I reckon your problem is contaminated tungstens. You need to snap off the contamination (put tungsten against edge of bench, at point of contamination and tap with something, it'll break off) and regrind.

If you dont do this, your tungsten is still contaminated, and will ball up, spit little sparks, overheat at the tip, give a crappy arc, give a funny arc colour etc etc etc.

Being stingy with the tungsten will cost you in the long run. Be prepared to go through a couple, until you've got the hang of not buggering them up. As you learn, they will last longer and longer.

Sorry, that was a bit wrong wasn't it haha. 15 lpm.

Thanks for that bit of advice, i'm going to get some more tomorrow anyway.
The guy's at the local welding shop/fabricator's like the project's i do, so i usually get things for free, the downside to that is you don't like been cheeky and sometimes end up with something good, but not quite what you need.

 

[snowcat]

15lpm, Thats a high rate, really you seam to have your mind set that you need this to cool the tungsten, even with stick out, It wont make a jot of difference its simply to stop contamination... Simon I think you could be right....

But really Rick were all Pi*** in the wind, without a full list of parameters theres little more help I can add....

 

[Rick]

15lpm, Thats a high rate, really you seam to have your mind set that you need this to cool the tungsten, even with stick out, It wont make a jot of difference its simply to stop contamination... Simon I think you could be right....

But really Rick were all Pi*** in the wind, without a full list of parameters theres little more help I can add....

I don't have my mind set at all, hence me making the thread, about how to use a lower rate, and whats going wrong. I've not tried to weld anything since i started this thread, when i've got my new part's i'm going to try all what's been said.

Full list of parameters? What do you want the colour of my boxers? I thought i'd given pretty much everything.

 

[snowcat]

Machine make, Material grade, Filler Size/grade, Reg, ie reg/and or flow gauge? prep etc etc everything, may seem unimportant, but you need to know the full picture to tick the boxes that are right...

 

[Rick]

Machine make, Material grade, Filler Size/grade, Reg, ie reg/and or flow gauge? prep etc etc everything, may seem unimportant, but you need to know the full picture to tick the boxes that are right...

Did you miss this post?

Rick can you give us a full list of parameters, Precise amps, Machine, Gas flow, Reg type, grade of pipe, fillers, torch, tungsten dia, prep etc anything else you can think of, The more we know the more we can help......

I usually weld on between 75 and 80 amps.

It's a lincoln electric inverter welder. Can't remember the exact model. But there's not much to change on it apart from "Soft" "crisp" and "lift tig" mode. I use lift tig not sure if thats correct?
Only other thing to adjust is current.

Gas flow i've been using was 15 cfm.
Reg type is just something from machine mart, it tells you flow and pressure in bottle.

304 grade stainless, sometimes 316, with 316 filler rod, not been using any on 304.

Torch is a lincoln electric 1, sorry don't know anything more about it.

Tungsten is 1.6mm now i'm thinking i'l measure that later though.

No prep work other than a quick wipe over as the pipe's are brand new.

I'l check the numbers on the machine in a minute and measure the rod and tungsten.

 

[snowcat]

I suspect Simon is correct then, Prep is paramount particularly if your scratching or lifting, all scale, debris but most important oils, must be removed get a rag and really clean, using acetone or brake cleaner, It must not leave a residue.... when the rag picks up no more dirt then its clean...

It most likely to be an invertec, I think Simon still has one...

You would be much better getting a pee shooter type flow Gage to go on the reg, much more accurate, then you can also Y connect two gages on 1 reg for the purge....inexpensive to buy, If a remember IL get a pic later Tday...

I think one of us said it before, but off hand grinders Should really have a dedicated wheal for tungstens, Its just another way of cross contaminating....

Often the success of a decent job is down to what you do before you even switch the machine on....

 

[Rick]

I suspect Simon is correct then, Prep is paramount particularly if your scratching or lifting, all scale, debris but most important oils, must be removed get a rag and really clean, using acetone or brake cleaner, It must not leave a residue.... when the rag picks up no more dirt then its clean...

It most likely to be an invertec, I think Simon still has one...

You would be much better getting a pee shooter type flow Gage to go on the reg, much more accurate, then you can also Y connect two gages on 1 reg for the purge....inexpensive to buy, If a remember IL get a pic later Tday...

I think one of us said it before, but off hand grinders Should really have a dedicated wheal for tungstens, Its just another way of cross contaminating....

Often the success of a decent job is down to what you do before you even switch the machine on....

So my prep probably wasn't perfect still so i'l work on that. I'l use " Panel wipe" as i have a plentiful supply and it should do the job.

Hmmm, do they have a floating "pea" in them? Where can i buy 1?

I never grind my pipes and tungstens on the same thing, i grind my tungsten on my bench grinder smooth side. Is it really that important? :O

Your right my welder is an invertec v145, do you know which mode i should use it in? Lift, soft or crisp? And what's the difference in them. I've been using lift tig.

Right i've just measured the ceramic and the tungsten. The tungsten looks to be 2.4mm, (this worsens my problem i guess) the ceramic has a 10.5mm orifice

Triple checked the torch is on the neg side, and the gas is argon.

1 thing to note though, the tungsten is black for the first 10mm, so i'l break this off and regrind. Hopefully that's been the main problem.

Many thanks for all your help.

 

[snowcat]

PM weldequip re flow gauges, If you ask him to price for two and a Y tap, then thats your purge sorted as well, should be inexpensive failing that BOC tradequip, But Steve would be first option....... and yes tho its not a pea these days, just a plastic ball!!

Lift If i remember correctly on them, I think that will put your OCV to the correct setting, Lincoln also have all there manuals online, so do a search on there web site for all the info.. The difference id imagine is just the OCV...


Although its not vital you grind on the same wheal, It is bad practice If you get my meaning, The more steps that you follow of the rule book the better the finished job, TIGs like that, It needs Patience and time spent on the whole job, and is much less forgiving for shortcuts than any other process..


Hope you get it sorted.......

 

[Drains]

Snowy's right re "lift" on the V145. "soft" and "crisp" are for stick welding.

The lift setting lowers the OCV, but also drops the current until the machine detects a closed circuit, then puts in the full weld current. Makes tungsten sticking/ inclusion much less likely than good old fashioned scratch.

My big ole V200s had no such facility, but it can take a pedal, which is a winner.

 

[matt1978]

I still think most of your problems are caused because your damaging the tungsten profile when starting the arc (especially if you had it on Crisp or Soft) and then welding with 80 amps on the damaged 1.6mm tungsten is the bit that causes the tungsten to erode further, if its possible for you to try without spending loads.........try a 2.4mm Tungsten.

 

[snowcat]

I still think most of your problems are caused because your damaging the tungsten profile when starting the arc (especially if you had it on Crisp or Soft) and then welding with 80 amps on the damaged 1.6mm tungsten is the bit that causes the tungsten to erode further, if its possible for you to try without spending loads.........try a 2.4mm Tungsten.

Matty, have a read of his set up.....

 

[matt1978]

Could double up as a plasma cutter with that flow rate

 

[snowcat]

Sherlock you missed this one "The tungsten looks to be 2.4mm"