- Thread starter MrGaz
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Richard.
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I believe it is yes.Good point Rich, isn't that in the tutorials
Richard.
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And post 14.Also in post no. 2 of this thread
If it's put up enough times it might get read.
it isGood point Rich, isn't that in the tutorials
Richard.
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Richard.
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Right. First off leave the tube and the SS and the joints for another day. Your not there yet. Secondly the pic of the steel you've put some beads on. Seriously how can you expect results on such a rusty plate. That's just not going to work for you. Tig at the best of times needs perfect clean metal to weld but that plate your showing would be a nightmare with some of the most forgiving processes
Ok taken on board, I dident know that about rust. Here is a photo of what I was getting on clean stuff
Richard.
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Tuition. You need to find someone local to wherever you are that is willing to spend some time with you. Practicing the wrong technique is as bad if not worse than not practicing at all. I could sit here forever (I'm not going to) and try and guide you in a decent direction by looking at your welds but without seeing you with a torch in your hand its second guessing.
Paul.
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I would use a bigger shroud, 7 is a good all rounder, normally I would switch to a 4 only when access is difficult, Looking at what you have achieved so far I would say that you are having problems maintaining arc length and steady travel speed, this will only come with practice and / or with an experienced tig welder actually looking over your shoulder, doing a few dry runs without power on as per the video here "clickme" will teach you some muscle memory,
On 1.5 mm steel a 1.6 tungsten is fine, aim for around 45/50 amps on a butt and beads on flat sheet, fillets will need a little more power, outside corners a little less, unless I've missed it haven't seen filler rod size mentioned, at low amps thinner filler rod melts quicker allowing you to move faster,
I would use 1mm rather than 1.6 filler to start with, the filler rod is melted by the weld pool not the arc, this is one of the most common mistakes made by tig learners, again the video on the tutorial page illustrates this, make sure that the hot end of the filler rod stays under the gas shield, if you pull it out it will oxidise then you shove the oxidised end straight back into the pool with the next dab of filler, a bigger shroud will help you with this.
Something to aim for, this is stainless done with a 1.6 electrode 1mm filler and a no 7 ceramic.
On 1.5 mm steel a 1.6 tungsten is fine, aim for around 45/50 amps on a butt and beads on flat sheet, fillets will need a little more power, outside corners a little less, unless I've missed it haven't seen filler rod size mentioned, at low amps thinner filler rod melts quicker allowing you to move faster,
I would use 1mm rather than 1.6 filler to start with, the filler rod is melted by the weld pool not the arc, this is one of the most common mistakes made by tig learners, again the video on the tutorial page illustrates this, make sure that the hot end of the filler rod stays under the gas shield, if you pull it out it will oxidise then you shove the oxidised end straight back into the pool with the next dab of filler, a bigger shroud will help you with this.
Something to aim for, this is stainless done with a 1.6 electrode 1mm filler and a no 7 ceramic.
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