Thus engine look bugered to you ?

[angellonewolf]

@angellonewolf

The image with the valves, are you missing the crank breather, from the hole Lower RHS?

I hope not every thing is there that u removed and was working at some point

 

[angellonewolf]

Ok update gone for fuel added oil took spark plug off pulled a few times to get oil in the engine

But does not seam that much compression

Wait for the look of gloom

 

[angellonewolf]

Doing the NHS clap

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Pour a small amount of oil down the bore, try again.

If you get compression, then the rings are the issue.

 

[Pete.]

Wish I had seen this thread sooner it would have saved you a lot of time.

Here's my Briggs & Stratton valve clearance adjuster. You just remove the cover and wiggle this into the gap. The valve opens under spring pressure then you just file until you get the gap you want. The teeth are ground off one side so it only files the pushrod.

 

[DAPPH]

Now I am on my lap top.

Clean the head up on a sheet off glass with 800 grit wet and dry, lubed with oil.

Clean the black face up.

Regrind the valves.

Gasket sealant on the head.

Fresh fuel and away you go.

The price of second hand engines are very low at the moment.

I have seen an ex member here(PDG) rebuild worse and they ran.

Before you start to clean the piston head and chamber up , do yourself a favour and slather some Vaseline or other grease about an inch before top dead centre then move the piston up for cleaning .. It's done to catch the hard carbon crud & stop it going between the piston & cylinder wall as well as embedding in the ring gap.

If you do take it down to the conrod removal .( preferable ) use a dot punch to mark the thrust side of the piston & the crank case & the conrod & bearing cap in relation to the thrust side marks . Done so the two dots will line up on reassembly as well as to indicate which way the con rod is on in relation to the bearing cap & the thrust side of the piston on the cylinder wall.

Have fun
Oh removing brittle cast iron piston rings to free the m up is " interesting " & needs to be done carefully it only takes a sight error of judgement & PING // you n=need new rings. The rings also have a top & bottom order so they need to be place in the correct order and the right way up . ..take lots of photos & notes of such things and you'll be fine exactly or they will leak .

Removing the sticky brown tar on the piston skirt & or cylinder wall once they are apart acetone thinners was good IIRC give it an over night soak & it should rub off with a rough cloth , it should help to loosen the piston rings as well .

 

[angellonewolf]

Just put the blade on waiting for oil to settle and will pull a few times before trying to start to get oil round

Still does not have the compression i did remember dint know if it's me or not

 

[angellonewolf]

Before you start to clean the piston head and chamber up , do yourself a favour and slather some Vaseline or other grease about an inch before top dead centre then move the piston up for cleaning .. It's done to catch the hard carbon crud & stop it going between the piston & cylinder wall as well as embedding in the ring gap.

If you do take it down to the conrod removal .( preferable ) use a dot punch to mark the thrust side of the piston & the crank case & the conrod & bearing cap in relation to the thrust side marks . Done so the two dots will line up on reassembly as well as to indicate which way the con rod is on in relation to the bearing cap & the thrust side of the piston on the cylinder wall.

Have fun
Oh removing brittle cast iron piston rings to free the m up is " interesting " & needs to be done carefully it only takes a sight error of judgement & PING // you n=need new rings. The rings also have a top & bottom order so they need to be place in the correct order and the right way up . ..take lots of photos & notes of such things and you'll be fine exactly or they will leak .

Removing the sticky brown tar on the piston skirt & or cylinder wall once they are apart acetone thinners was good IIRC give it an over night soak & it should rub off with a rough cloth , it should help to loosen the piston rings as well .

I put a cloth in there while cleaning and blown the bore out hope that will be enough

 

[angellonewolf]

Wish I had seen this thread sooner it would have saved you a lot of time.

Here's my Briggs & Stratton valve clearance adjuster. You just remove the cover and wiggle this into the gap. The valve opens under spring pressure then you just file until you get the gap you want. The teeth are ground off one side so it only files the pushrod.

View attachment 225508

The amout if crude in the engine and rods was a lot so even if it dont work I've done some thing today will be miffed if dont start

 

[angellonewolf]

Here goes

I'm not sure I want to know if it's running after doing all that

 

[DAPPH]

I put a cloth in there while cleaning and blown the bore out hope that will be enough

Trouble with blowing it is you still blow crap into the bore and some will often end up between the piston & the cylinder wall .

 

[angellonewolf]

Poping and farting like its dying

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Let it warm up, then tinker.
Then if it goes wrong I have a cunning plan.

 

[Pete.]

Put a new plug in it. Mine has to have one every year or it won't start.

 

[DAPPH]

Looking at your first few picture ..My first thoughts were what has caused such an oily carbon build up ..it looks very tarry . Badly adjusted carb , dirty air filter and blocked silencer & wear in the cylinder all come to mind . As well as the dreaded bit of old two stoke fuel left over from a couple of months ago.

Was the engine breather also mucky and was the silencer box caked up inside with oily carbon deposits ?


You can often burn out oily deposits of carbon in the silencer by heating it to just past dark red hot whilst it is hanging it on a wire then Gently tapping it with a bit of broom handle etc. . I've even cooked them up on hot BBQ coals . When they are cold you should be able to shake out all the crumbly mess . Even using a hose pipe to from the exhaust pipe end & from the flange mounting end to flush deposits out , shake it dry, warm it up to dry if you feel like it .

 

[DAPPH]

Put a new plug in it. Mine has to have one every year or it won't start.

Warm the plug up so you can barely hold it in an ungloved hand , let cool , clean, set the gap and refit . In our small plant & electrical hire company it was amazing how many , " The machine just won't start I think it needs a new plug ) we had in during March , April & May . I often felt like say to these " Customers " have you messed with it " ? If so add another £25 to the bill so we can reset everything to as it should be so we are working off a known standard .

Moisture ingress from winter storage snookers a lot of spring start up's . Always run the machine out of fuel & whilst still warm , gently pull the engine over to compression when leaving it for a few months out of service .. The closed valves help stop rust forming on the valve seats and also attracting normal atmospheric moisture which dampens the plug electrode & any carbon on the ceramic as the temperature & atmospheric pressure changes during the lay up period.

It's also useful to take the plug out for the first start of the year & give a couple of WD 40 sprays down the plug hole and pull the engine over three or four times to lube the piston walls & piston rings , then put the plug back in & connect the HT lead ..

 

[Pete.]

When the starting gets bad I can get a few rounds out of it by using my Rothenberger torch to cook the plug, but the problem is my wife can't be expected to do that so I just fit a new one. They are only a few quid.

 

[angellonewolf]

Let it warm up, then tinker.
Then if it goes wrong I have a cunning plan.

bin the engine ?

Put a new plug in it. Mine has to have one every year or it won't start.

new plug a few weeks before it died never made any differance to how it runs

Looking at your first few picture ..My first thoughts were what has caused such an oily carbon build up ..it looks very tarry . Badly adjusted carb , dirty air filter and blocked silencer & wear in the cylinder all come to mind . As well as the dreaded bit of old two stoke fuel left over from a couple of months ago.

Was the engine breather also mucky and was the silencer box caked up inside with oily carbon deposits ?


You can often burn out oily deposits of carbon in the silencer by heating it to just past dark red hot whilst it is hanging it on a wire then Gently tapping it with a bit of broom handle etc. . I've even cooked them up on hot BBQ coals . When they are cold you should be able to shake out all the crumbly mess . Even using a hose pipe to from the exhaust pipe end & from the flange mounting end to flush deposits out , shake it dry, warm it up to dry if you feel like it .

to be fair i did think that the only thing is left is the rings in the bore ive got

ive got 2 bits of most bits another carb,coil plug fuel tank apart from the main engine and deak ive changed over time hoping to sort it its never done much different but got worse more poping and farting

As well as the dreaded bit of old two stoke fuel left over from a couple of months ago.

never put old fuel in there only run low the fuel and even started it with fresh fuel after adding new fuel

Badly adjusted carb , dirty air filter and blocked silencer

bad carb i would love it to be but having 2 carbs sonic cleaned over the last couple years i hope not

new air filter late part last year yes there is a small amout of oil in there very small but there

the vent where the valves are did have quite a bit of oil not massive amounts but oily round the seals and at the bottem of the inclosure

burn out oily deposits of carbon in the silencer by heating it to just past dark

done that and got 2 of them both cleaned

Warm the plug up so you can barely hold it in an ungloved hand , let cool , clean, set the gap and refit . In our small plant & electrical hire company it was amazing ow many , " the machine just won't start I think it needs a new plug ) we had in during March April & May . I often felt like say to these " Customers " have you messed with it " ? If so add another £25 to the bill so we can reset everything to as it should be so we are working off a known standard

ive got meny a plugs none ever made a differance

When the starting gets bad I can get a few rounds out of it by using my Rothenberger torch to cook the plug, but the problem is my wife can't be expected to do that so I just fit a new one. They are only a few quid.

the stupid thing about all of this its a great starting mechine even after i done all i did today pulled a couple times with spark plug cap off and on the first pull with the spark plug connected it fired right up

 

[angellonewolf]

ps sorry about the slow reply meny to reply to

 

[DAPPH]

Until you do a wet & dry compression test , there is not a lot else to consider other than crank case compression , worn valve guides and poor carburation .
It's a low compression engine so 15 to 30 psi might be found then a bump up of 10 or more if the bore is worn .
That oily burnt carbon ,, it is localised to one side where the valves are , a bit of crank case compression & worn guides might well produce such a signature . What was the underside of the valve heads like on each valve was one stem well carboned up more than the other ?

That air filter , if it is a sponge one it should be an open cell sponge manufactures one not a gash piece of foam roughly cut to size & stuffed in the housing .
Wash it out in clean petrol squeeze it dry leve it in the sun an hour or so then drizzle a teaspoon of clean engine oil on it roll it in a clean cloth to remove any excess , there should not be oil in the filter housing .

You could try a short trial without the filter in place to see how it runs . If it is one of the paper cartridges with a silicone sealing gasket it should be as dry as a bone .