gaz1
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i had the 1.9 and the engine was easy to work on and so was the 405 with the same engine
and i like the 405 and 406 model
- Thread starter roblane65
- Start date
and i like the 405 and 406 model
roblane65
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I've dwelling on anL405 for some time now but the verdict is still out at present so the 4.2 SC may be here for some time yet
Nomad
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- North Devon (for how long?)
Starter motor on a 2017 BMW 325i - starter is easy to remove as it's only 3 bolts. Crazy that you need to remove the inlet manifold and pipework ( breaking the heat brittle breather pipe in the process) before you can even see the starter or the bolts.
Even worse as the starters are considered a consumable item that can fail anytime after 100k miles.
Just changed the starter on a 90s Renault traffic van, 3 bolts, one easy from under the bonnet, one OK from below, the rear-facing one at the top of the bellhousing needed a ratchet with a 2ft long extension + UJ.
Even worse as the starters are considered a consumable item that can fail anytime after 100k miles.
Just changed the starter on a 90s Renault traffic van, 3 bolts, one easy from under the bonnet, one OK from below, the rear-facing one at the top of the bellhousing needed a ratchet with a 2ft long extension + UJ.
I got a complete Fiat 131 for the 2l twin cam Lancia designed engine.
I wanted to get the engine running in the car prior to removal. It wouldn't turn over, traced it to the starter.
There was no physical way to get the starter out as it was tight against the gearbox tunnel. To avoid having to drop the engine and box I cut a large hole in the passenger footwell to give me access!
I wanted to get the engine running in the car prior to removal. It wouldn't turn over, traced it to the starter.
There was no physical way to get the starter out as it was tight against the gearbox tunnel. To avoid having to drop the engine and box I cut a large hole in the passenger footwell to give me access!
Ubique
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5.0SC is.... satisfyingly covert enough to ruin the Wermacht staff car drivers day, unlike the SVR's that are too shouty (and only 0.3 seconds faster 0-60mph) and everyone wants to race. That said, there's some simple software mods that up the game, you need to look at 2015 and beyond to avoid the timing chain issues though - 2016 MY is the sweet spot in terms of maturity & comfort - even the SDV8's are quick, my current usage doesn't suit a diesel, much to my other sons benefit....I've dwelling on anL405 for some time now but the verdict is still out at present so the 4.2 SC may be here for some time yet
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I used to work in RR assembly, the trimmed body comes into the marriage station where the complete engine/drivetrain is lifted up into it and a dozen big bolts hold it all together, all done in about 30 seconds, how to access some of the components a few years down the line is not their problem
Ubique
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I spent a few weeks in my LR training hanging around various production lines, subconsciously analysing how to get to various critical components in the workshop, sometimes it was unpossible to imagine a repair process that didn't involve the assembly frame and a lot of hydraulics...
The L319/320 T5 platform looked a joy after the L322's!
The L319/320 T5 platform looked a joy after the L322's!
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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Can you chop a hole in the trans tunnel?
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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This has always been the fate of "big" cars from time immemorial. Once the original buyer from the target market get shot, any "prestige" they had is gone, and they eventually end up in the hands of people that cannot afford to pay the maintenance charges.
Is yours a TD6 ? On the engine I have here, both the starter bolts go through from the bellhousing.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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It sounds a lot of work, but actually isn't. Not once you have done it once and changed the rusty fittings. Then, changing the alternator or starter, or anything else is literally the work of minutes, and there is no risk of damaging the radiator.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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I saw a pic of that the other day, funnily enough.Starter on Lexus 1uz v8. Under inlet manifold in Vee.....
I think if I'd had more time to tinker, and somewhere undercover to work - I'd have been tempted to do just that (I'd also learn a bit more about the van mechanicals & access as a bonus).
Having it on my driveway at the worst time of year for such shenanigans though, I decided to tackle it from underneath on my car ramps.
(With the benefit of experience I also now know that - unlike a lot of starters - you really need to fiddle & undo the electrics first in situ and wrestle the weird clip-on surround off, and push it back to get a bit more wiggle room to remove.... and fight it back on AFTER remounting the starter when refitting. It cost me time, effort, discomfort, contortion, a goodly selection of choice cursing and significant er.... mental equilibrium establishing this
)
colnerov
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1.9 diesel,Maybe we had the one built on a friday, honestly it got to 85 thousand miles & all of a sudden it was like a clowns car, bits dropping off it & breaking with monotonous regularity. Was glad to get shot of the poxy thing!
I'll just leave this here, Clio 4 phase1 FAP (cat)removal for cleaning. Its not possible to remove with the engine in the car (redesigned for phase2 onwards so it is). So front panels & headlights out, subframe and lower control arms out, driveshafts out, engine out, trans out. The only upside to this was I was changing the engine anyway.
More recent, to take the fuel pump out, you have to drop the tank as the access hole is too small to pass the pump through. Which means removal of the 1 piece exhaust, handbrake etc. Which also means removal of the rear subframe which requires realignment. Or you take a saw to the exhaust and separate it into two sections then weld in a slip joint so it can be disassembled in future. You can now buy a back box section from Renault instead of the complete exhaust pipe which is 800e from Renault and not available aftermarket because it has a electronically controlled valve midway in the mid pipe, and that comes with instructions on where to saw the original pipe to match a slip joint on the repair piece.
RenaultSport themselves sold a closure plate and a cutting jig to make the hole above the fuel pump bigger for the clio cup cars, but your not allowed to modify the shell yourself the same on a non cup chassis car...
Its been a good car, but a hateful thing to work on.
Old landrovers seem simpler but even they have quirks. There's one bolt thats impossible to undo on my 90 to change either the clutch or the clutch slave cylinder without removing the engine, cant remember which as its years ago since I did it, but the bulkhead is in the way for it irrc. There's a discreet little access window in the bulkhead of mine.
More recent, to take the fuel pump out, you have to drop the tank as the access hole is too small to pass the pump through. Which means removal of the 1 piece exhaust, handbrake etc. Which also means removal of the rear subframe which requires realignment. Or you take a saw to the exhaust and separate it into two sections then weld in a slip joint so it can be disassembled in future. You can now buy a back box section from Renault instead of the complete exhaust pipe which is 800e from Renault and not available aftermarket because it has a electronically controlled valve midway in the mid pipe, and that comes with instructions on where to saw the original pipe to match a slip joint on the repair piece.
RenaultSport themselves sold a closure plate and a cutting jig to make the hole above the fuel pump bigger for the clio cup cars, but your not allowed to modify the shell yourself the same on a non cup chassis car...
Its been a good car, but a hateful thing to work on.
Old landrovers seem simpler but even they have quirks. There's one bolt thats impossible to undo on my 90 to change either the clutch or the clutch slave cylinder without removing the engine, cant remember which as its years ago since I did it, but the bulkhead is in the way for it irrc. There's a discreet little access window in the bulkhead of mine.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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I dont have a workshop of anywhere under cover either. Its a bit of a pain.I think if I'd had more time to tinker, and somewhere undercover to work - I'd have been tempted to do just that (I'd also learn a bit more about the van mechanicals & access as a bonus).
Having it on my driveway at the worst time of year for such shenanigans though, I decided to tackle it from underneath on my car ramps.
(With the benefit of experience I also now know that - unlike a lot of starters - you really need to fiddle & undo the electrics first in situ and wrestle the weird clip-on surround off, and push it back to get a bit more wiggle room to remove.... and fight it back on AFTER remounting the starter when refitting. It cost me time, effort, discomfort, contortion, a goodly selection of choice cursing and significant er.... mental equilibrium establishing this
I removed all my front end to access the clutch, SO much easier than grovelling around underneath, and the gearbox is a lot heavier than it looks !
It was a pain to remove initially, due to rusty fittings, but I have replaces all the fixings with new, and liberal amounts of anti seize compound.
My starter had been replaced before I bought the van ten years ago. Was fitted by a garage, who left the cover off, as they normally do. Obviously Renault had put it there for no reason, that same as they did with the engine undertray.
Lancia integrale speedo sensor on the back of the box - not enough room to even get stubby spanner on the nut after its been done up for 30 yrs - I think I ended up removing the whole engine/box to get it out.
As for one M6 bolt in the belt cover - you can't get it out with the engine in place when you want to change the waterpump or belts. Once you have the engine out, you slot the hole in the metal cover . .
As for the timing chains in an Alfa 159 V6 - a GM engine, so in Cadillacs and such RWD things, they are easy to get to . . . in a transverse engined 159, the engine has to come out . . . 2 days work . . . 3 days to get it back in.
As for one M6 bolt in the belt cover - you can't get it out with the engine in place when you want to change the waterpump or belts. Once you have the engine out, you slot the hole in the metal cover . .
As for the timing chains in an Alfa 159 V6 - a GM engine, so in Cadillacs and such RWD things, they are easy to get to . . . in a transverse engined 159, the engine has to come out . . . 2 days work . . . 3 days to get it back in.
roblane65
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there would be no point all of the starter motor is in the engine bay
it's not a diesel , it's the jaguar derived V8 4,2 supercharged .
