stuvy
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brewdexta
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You absolutely sure about that?
Yes, its definitely tool rash from whatever they used to use the bench for before they put a new ply top on the bench. I like it, and intend to polish it sympathetically to keep the signs of use.
brewdexta
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I used to post on a brewing forum, but the owner of the site sold it to a US company that specialised in taking over forums for profit, covering it with adverts, so I stopped writing FAQs for them. Once I'm further down the brewery build I may do that, they are easy to use.
brewdexta
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Three days of horrible beam scrubbing and painting and nearly there. First I did the centre beam, then the west beam, here's the west beam before,
and after, the white background and cross beams will be hidden behind OSB3 so only the top beam and diagonal brace will be visible. The white background is an 80mm kingspan metal clad panel, as is all the barn upstairs and roof, and just this quarter of the downstairs barn, I'm putting an extra 50mm of kingspan behind the OSB so 130mm insulation in the west and east wall and 100mm in the partition should be good enough. The block wall will be insulated with about 75mm behind OSB and its a cavity wall with stone on the outside and 100mm batting in the void so should suffice.
Now onto the east wall, it would have been so much easier before the pellet boiler was fitted -doh! I ditch the wire brush and scraper and went for the cup brush in the end, filthy work.
And the south and centre beam. It wasn't all beam scrubbing and red oxide. Yesterday I drove the bobcat in through this opening and removed the screw compressor with the pallet forks. This morning my neighbour came around to help, perfect social distancing as he was upstairs using the winch, I had already lifted out the hatch in the floor and put straps and a shackle on the compressor. I was downstairs lifting the bobcat up into the hatch so he didn't have to winch it far. I was too busy to take pictures, meaning I momentatily lost my phone. The bobcat just fits, it won't when the door casings are fitted. The pallet truck wouldn't fit under the receiver while the bobcat forks are lower and you can vary the width.
However you don't get owt for nowt. My neighbour who is in his 70s, is trying to move 500kg of Jacuzzi across his garden to its new base. I helped pick up the Jacuzzi from his SiL near Wigan. It was bloody heavy and took four of use to drag it, partially as its an awkward shape. Given we can't get lots of people together to move it, I dug out a paused project, modified it and he picked it up later.
I posted this back in 2014 as my "next project", well its still waiting TLC. My neighbour was scrapping it as the body rotted through. However in about an hour I had put a new tow hitch and chain on it, and made a temporary platform on top made from some spare stud work and a big pallet. Again, couldn't find my phone. The idea is that he can slide the Jacuzzi of the trailer it is still on (my trailer!) since the lock down started, onto the platform. Strap it down again and move it across his garden and slide it onto the new pad. He'll use his extended family who are isolating with him to do this. I would have done it with the bobcat but it can only take 500kg near the base of the forks, not a big 2m square lump.
Tomorrow morning, a coat of Post Office red synthetic on all the steel, in the afternoon I am off on a long walk with the dog and kids across the moors.
Cheers
Andy
and after, the white background and cross beams will be hidden behind OSB3 so only the top beam and diagonal brace will be visible. The white background is an 80mm kingspan metal clad panel, as is all the barn upstairs and roof, and just this quarter of the downstairs barn, I'm putting an extra 50mm of kingspan behind the OSB so 130mm insulation in the west and east wall and 100mm in the partition should be good enough. The block wall will be insulated with about 75mm behind OSB and its a cavity wall with stone on the outside and 100mm batting in the void so should suffice.
Now onto the east wall, it would have been so much easier before the pellet boiler was fitted -doh! I ditch the wire brush and scraper and went for the cup brush in the end, filthy work.
And the south and centre beam. It wasn't all beam scrubbing and red oxide. Yesterday I drove the bobcat in through this opening and removed the screw compressor with the pallet forks. This morning my neighbour came around to help, perfect social distancing as he was upstairs using the winch, I had already lifted out the hatch in the floor and put straps and a shackle on the compressor. I was downstairs lifting the bobcat up into the hatch so he didn't have to winch it far. I was too busy to take pictures, meaning I momentatily lost my phone. The bobcat just fits, it won't when the door casings are fitted. The pallet truck wouldn't fit under the receiver while the bobcat forks are lower and you can vary the width.
However you don't get owt for nowt. My neighbour who is in his 70s, is trying to move 500kg of Jacuzzi across his garden to its new base. I helped pick up the Jacuzzi from his SiL near Wigan. It was bloody heavy and took four of use to drag it, partially as its an awkward shape. Given we can't get lots of people together to move it, I dug out a paused project, modified it and he picked it up later.
I posted this back in 2014 as my "next project", well its still waiting TLC. My neighbour was scrapping it as the body rotted through. However in about an hour I had put a new tow hitch and chain on it, and made a temporary platform on top made from some spare stud work and a big pallet. Again, couldn't find my phone. The idea is that he can slide the Jacuzzi of the trailer it is still on (my trailer!) since the lock down started, onto the platform. Strap it down again and move it across his garden and slide it onto the new pad. He'll use his extended family who are isolating with him to do this. I would have done it with the bobcat but it can only take 500kg near the base of the forks, not a big 2m square lump.
Tomorrow morning, a coat of Post Office red synthetic on all the steel, in the afternoon I am off on a long walk with the dog and kids across the moors.
Cheers
Andy
Last edited:
selectedgrub
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That would so be a moon patrol version of Wall-E if I had it.
brewdexta
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I've made a bit of progress and only one screw up, so not too bad.
The screw up is the beam above the panelling. I started to paint the beam with the post office gloss red, it clearly needed two coats and I wasn't sure it looked right. So I asked the clan and the opinion was that the colour and the matt finish of the red oxide was preferable. So the following day I attempted to over paint the gloss with red oxide, and it reacted, both are synthetic paints but I think I need to wait a bit longer. I will give all the steelwork another coat of red oxide as its not really a top coat.
I've been using the last of the reclaimed wood so lots of denailing and careful cutting on my ancient mitre saw. The leftover 50mm kingspan fitted between the battens and channel nicely so that wall has now about 130mm of insulation.
I did the same with the blockwork to hide the waste pipe from the brewery.
More OSB, nearly done then onto the other wall tomorrow. I used most of a pack of 10mm sound deadening left over from the kids bedroom extension so getting loads of bits used up. Once I have the 5mm rubber coin floor down in I'll put some narrow skirting in and the door casing.
In the top left I will weld up a 25mm box section cabinet for the blu-ray/freeview box and the AV amp. I nearly forget to put the speaker cables in, they will go in under the shelf where the tools are in the picture above and terminate on banana sockets. The rear speakers will go along the beam using beam clips or conduit along with power to the projector. There's a TV aerial cable and two CAT5 cables run in too. And I painted the blockwork to the right white too.
Cheers
Andy
The screw up is the beam above the panelling. I started to paint the beam with the post office gloss red, it clearly needed two coats and I wasn't sure it looked right. So I asked the clan and the opinion was that the colour and the matt finish of the red oxide was preferable. So the following day I attempted to over paint the gloss with red oxide, and it reacted, both are synthetic paints but I think I need to wait a bit longer. I will give all the steelwork another coat of red oxide as its not really a top coat.
I've been using the last of the reclaimed wood so lots of denailing and careful cutting on my ancient mitre saw. The leftover 50mm kingspan fitted between the battens and channel nicely so that wall has now about 130mm of insulation.
I did the same with the blockwork to hide the waste pipe from the brewery.
More OSB, nearly done then onto the other wall tomorrow. I used most of a pack of 10mm sound deadening left over from the kids bedroom extension so getting loads of bits used up. Once I have the 5mm rubber coin floor down in I'll put some narrow skirting in and the door casing.
In the top left I will weld up a 25mm box section cabinet for the blu-ray/freeview box and the AV amp. I nearly forget to put the speaker cables in, they will go in under the shelf where the tools are in the picture above and terminate on banana sockets. The rear speakers will go along the beam using beam clips or conduit along with power to the projector. There's a TV aerial cable and two CAT5 cables run in too. And I painted the blockwork to the right white too.
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
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A bit more progress, now onto the shelf made out of the old bench top. Here's the two planks.
Cutting it to size, it shows the colour of the wood, its a red hardwood, I bet it is iroko, a lot of these type of woods are irritants so I was fully masked up.
Fitted and first sanding
Now through the grits and a coat of Osmo hard wax oil, the patchy bits is where it looked like somebody mixed car body filler on the bench and its got into the deep tool/drill/chisel marks.
and the almost finished wall. Just a few bits of trim to add and skirting after the floor is down and red oxide on that beam.
Next job is the cabinet in the top left corner for the amp etc. I have found a small 19" rack that I bought years ago that may do the job and save me from building it. I can then make off the RJ45 crimps on the CAT5 and get that job finished.
Cheers
Andy
Cutting it to size, it shows the colour of the wood, its a red hardwood, I bet it is iroko, a lot of these type of woods are irritants so I was fully masked up.
Fitted and first sanding
Now through the grits and a coat of Osmo hard wax oil, the patchy bits is where it looked like somebody mixed car body filler on the bench and its got into the deep tool/drill/chisel marks.
and the almost finished wall. Just a few bits of trim to add and skirting after the floor is down and red oxide on that beam.
Next job is the cabinet in the top left corner for the amp etc. I have found a small 19" rack that I bought years ago that may do the job and save me from building it. I can then make off the RJ45 crimps on the CAT5 and get that job finished.
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
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A bit more done over the last couple of days, apart from a lot of painting, I starting boarding out the wall with the boiler on it. Its half underground, the stud work consisted of tanalised timber with some DPM behind then filled with wingspan before topping off with OSB3.
Before
And after
Then I needed to add ducting for the steam from the brewery. I decided to go through the OSB, studwork, insulation, 80mm steel clad insulated panel and yorkshire boarding with a 152mm core drill, with a morse taper twist drill rather than a masonry bit.
After much wailing and gnashing of teeth later, a hole.
You can see the fence post graveyard on the other side.
The duct went through after much swearing, cussing and invention of new invectives.
The duct went though to the other side, you can see the difference in ground level. Thd cable on the right is what I use to get outside temperatures I need to get a cable clip on it
I put a one way valve and birds mouth with grille on the outside.
On the inside I mounted the fan
And finished off with brackets and beam clamps. Just need to tidy up the heating pipes and wire up the fan to the overload trip and speed controller.
Next job is to finish off the painting and a bit more boarding out with OSB behind the heating system
Cheers
Andy
Before
And after
Then I needed to add ducting for the steam from the brewery. I decided to go through the OSB, studwork, insulation, 80mm steel clad insulated panel and yorkshire boarding with a 152mm core drill, with a morse taper twist drill rather than a masonry bit.
After much wailing and gnashing of teeth later, a hole.
You can see the fence post graveyard on the other side.
The duct went through after much swearing, cussing and invention of new invectives.
The duct went though to the other side, you can see the difference in ground level. Thd cable on the right is what I use to get outside temperatures I need to get a cable clip on it
I put a one way valve and birds mouth with grille on the outside.
On the inside I mounted the fan
And finished off with brackets and beam clamps. Just need to tidy up the heating pipes and wire up the fan to the overload trip and speed controller.
Next job is to finish off the painting and a bit more boarding out with OSB behind the heating system
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
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The clamps that fit into the multideck ceiling arrived
I just tested they work, they seem fine. I will be putting a lock nut on the threaded bar when I use them in anger
They have 6, 8 and 10mm threaded holes in them, I shall be using 10mm as I have lots of it.
These will be used to hang speakers, projector bracket and various heating pipes.
I've decided on a 5.1.2 speaker set up, so the 5 means a centre speaker, front left and right speakers, and rear surround left and right. The 1 indicates one subwoofer, and the 2 is for two downwards (in my case) firing Dolby Atmos speakers.
The last of the speakers arrive today, apart from the subwoofer, they are all Q Acoustics either unboxed or refurbished to save a bit of cash. The screen arrived yesterday and the spark is coming over to check out the job this evening.
Cheers
Andy
I just tested they work, they seem fine. I will be putting a lock nut on the threaded bar when I use them in anger
They have 6, 8 and 10mm threaded holes in them, I shall be using 10mm as I have lots of it.These will be used to hang speakers, projector bracket and various heating pipes.
I've decided on a 5.1.2 speaker set up, so the 5 means a centre speaker, front left and right speakers, and rear surround left and right. The 1 indicates one subwoofer, and the 2 is for two downwards (in my case) firing Dolby Atmos speakers.
The last of the speakers arrive today, apart from the subwoofer, they are all Q Acoustics either unboxed or refurbished to save a bit of cash. The screen arrived yesterday and the spark is coming over to check out the job this evening.
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
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I've completed the boarding out, only a bit more insulation to do behind the boiler and I can have a good sweep up. I have a bit of steel sheet to put behind the flue too. I've put the grille in for the vent too. Since this photo I've sorted out the trunking too. At some point the flexible pipe on the left will be replaced with copper. You can see the projector hanging from the ceiling, the fixing is temporary, I just wanted to get the right distance from the screen, I have a bit of 41mm ID steel tube to replace the tie bar being used at the moment. This will be welded to a plate that will bolt to the ceiling.
Sockets and conduit on the opposite wall too. The screens up, I need to raise it about 20mm so I can get the centre speaker on the shelf
I've booked in the flooring guy to screed the floor next Wednesday, and fit the rubber coin flooring a few days later. He asked for some heat to warm up the flooring to typical room temperatures to make the rubber flooring more flexible fir fitting. I have a diesel torpedo space heater which should do the trick. Or would do if the fuel lines weren't perished, more on order, should be an easy fix and I have over a week to fix it.
So almost complete apart from a bit of snagging, some skirting once the floor is down, and the doors and door casing. So I've moved on to the speaker layout, following instructions from Dolby about speaker placement in a 5.1.2 system, here's the location of the speakers on the plan. The red cross is central seating position, the speakers labelled AR and AL are Atmos right and left speakers and fire down from the ceiling. Handily, their optimal position is close to the RSJ so I can use both a ceiling mount and a beam clamp to hold them in position. The rear left and right speakers will hang from the ceiling and be bolted to the wall. The room does not echo as much as I thought, probably due to the boiler, but I will consider putting up some sound absorbing panels on the partition wall once its all in and working.
Cheers
Andy
Sockets and conduit on the opposite wall too. The screens up, I need to raise it about 20mm so I can get the centre speaker on the shelf
I've booked in the flooring guy to screed the floor next Wednesday, and fit the rubber coin flooring a few days later. He asked for some heat to warm up the flooring to typical room temperatures to make the rubber flooring more flexible fir fitting. I have a diesel torpedo space heater which should do the trick. Or would do if the fuel lines weren't perished, more on order, should be an easy fix and I have over a week to fix it.
So almost complete apart from a bit of snagging, some skirting once the floor is down, and the doors and door casing. So I've moved on to the speaker layout, following instructions from Dolby about speaker placement in a 5.1.2 system, here's the location of the speakers on the plan. The red cross is central seating position, the speakers labelled AR and AL are Atmos right and left speakers and fire down from the ceiling. Handily, their optimal position is close to the RSJ so I can use both a ceiling mount and a beam clamp to hold them in position. The rear left and right speakers will hang from the ceiling and be bolted to the wall. The room does not echo as much as I thought, probably due to the boiler, but I will consider putting up some sound absorbing panels on the partition wall once its all in and working.
Cheers
Andy
slim_boy_fat
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When's the party? 
brewdexta
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I need to get a brew on first
I've got two local artists that want to exhibit their art in it, so that may be the first external party, but in the current circumstances, that may be a while......
I now have a chicken shed roof so apart from speaker, data and HDMI cables and hanging the speakers from the ceiling, I'll be building next boxes and perches for the chucks until the floor is down.
brewdexta
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I finished the rear surround speaker mounts yesterday. This involved welding a small plate to 10mm threaded rod so that I can bolt the speaker brackets to the plate rather than the wall.
The bracket gives you up/down and left/right adjustment but I angled the plate towards the optimal seating position. I could have just hung it from the ceiling on the threaded rod but it would look really odd as the centre of gravity of the speaker would move the roof off plumb as the bracket is at the rear, so I put another threaded rod to a wall bracket.
I could have just mounted the speaker bracket on the wall but that would mean the speaker would be under spiral ducting carrying steam from the brewery and the speakers sound better about a foot from the wall.
Here's the first speaker mounted. You can see the amp stand to the bottom right, this is a 450w, 400d SS catering shelf. This means I have finished drilling the walls and can have a final paint touch up and a dood clean before the floor is screened as it's been brought forward to Saturday afternoon. I did the other surround speaker. Today it will be the downward firing Atmos speakers.
I've put the speaker back in its box, I'm itching to get it all assembled and fired up now, but need to consider doors and security next before sticking those in.
There will be twin outward opening cherry panel doors. I need to consider a pair of steel security grilles or similar to go over the top of them with a lock box. I've run out of argoshield so another job for today.
Cheers
Andy
The bracket gives you up/down and left/right adjustment but I angled the plate towards the optimal seating position. I could have just hung it from the ceiling on the threaded rod but it would look really odd as the centre of gravity of the speaker would move the roof off plumb as the bracket is at the rear, so I put another threaded rod to a wall bracket.
I could have just mounted the speaker bracket on the wall but that would mean the speaker would be under spiral ducting carrying steam from the brewery and the speakers sound better about a foot from the wall.
Here's the first speaker mounted. You can see the amp stand to the bottom right, this is a 450w, 400d SS catering shelf. This means I have finished drilling the walls and can have a final paint touch up and a dood clean before the floor is screened as it's been brought forward to Saturday afternoon. I did the other surround speaker. Today it will be the downward firing Atmos speakers.
I've put the speaker back in its box, I'm itching to get it all assembled and fired up now, but need to consider doors and security next before sticking those in.
There will be twin outward opening cherry panel doors. I need to consider a pair of steel security grilles or similar to go over the top of them with a lock box. I've run out of argoshield so another job for today.
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
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After mulling over the security dilemma, I've decided to go for a manual roller shutter. Given its a wooden stud wall, and all I want to do is slow down any low life while we respond to the alarm, this beats welding up a security grill door. I'll just have to hide my trolley jack
brewdexta
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Almost the last day of the boring bits. It was time to panel the other side of the stud partition. On Friday evening I cup brushed the steel beams with the angle grinder and gave them a coat of red oxide. Horrible job and the beams will largely be hidden but I think it was the right thing to do. I have somebody in mind to do the other three quarters of the barn but I needed this doing before boarding up the partition.
I used up all my odds and end of insulation and rockwool sound deadening, also I need loads more noggins as the boards on this side are a different size so used up loads of odd bits of timber, which is good as I'm about to embark on a big workshop and barn tidy up.
I managed to get a bit more done than this, not quite finished boarding but all the insulation is finished and I just have a couple of fiddly bits around the beams to cut tomorrow.
Once that is done its a bit of cabling and speaker suspension then onto finishing the chicken shed. The missus is looking into sound absorbing carpets and curtains ready for the film premiere in about 2 weeks once floor and doors are done.
Cheers
Andy
I used up all my odds and end of insulation and rockwool sound deadening, also I need loads more noggins as the boards on this side are a different size so used up loads of odd bits of timber, which is good as I'm about to embark on a big workshop and barn tidy up.
I managed to get a bit more done than this, not quite finished boarding but all the insulation is finished and I just have a couple of fiddly bits around the beams to cut tomorrow.
Once that is done its a bit of cabling and speaker suspension then onto finishing the chicken shed. The missus is looking into sound absorbing carpets and curtains ready for the film premiere in about 2 weeks once floor and doors are done.
Cheers
Andy
LiftedDisco
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Looks like an absolutely cracking job - some anthracite carpet glued to the OSB would help reduce the reverberation time within the room and be a cheap acoustic help. You can get some pretty cheap ‘event cord’ which is a single ply product and would stick well but ‘softens’ the wall.
Have you done anything to reduce condensation in the pipe work leaving the brewery? Where will any water go that condenses in the pipe work? I struggle to get steam out of my brew room with a kitchen extractor venting under 10 inch through a wall.
Andrew
Andrew
brewdexta
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Hi Andrew
I extract steam direct from the top of the copper rather than let it fill the brewery. I use a 6" flexible aluminium duct that I rest the lid of the copper on. That way the extract fan is only ticking over but the brewery stays steam free. I don't get any issues with condensation, all the water pipes are plastic and because of the extract method, there's not much to condense.
Cheers
Andy
