At those prices why not copy , plasma cut and weld up then temper them your self . Perhaps do half a dozen or so and maybe sell some ???Yea I've already gotten it at max length, it's odd as there's 6x 5 link 1x 7 link 1x 6 link 2x 3 link 3x 1 link so it splits in 2x 26 link lengths (5/5/5/7/3/1 & 5/5/5/6/3/1/1) with the one with the 7 link being slightly shorter due to less extendable connections but previous owner said they fit however there no combination of the available links that would allow both to fit since they're a link short for each.
I think one of the 11" option would fit but it's finding a uk seller/2nd hand ones or somehow getting 2 sent over here
Loegering Std F-Series Track Pad
Loegering F-Series Track Pad Weldment - Standard Link Style. Pads available for 10.00 inch, 12.00 inch, and HD2000 12.00 inch tires.www.track-parts.com
Probably too big of a gap for the side pieces to keep the tracks on/not puncture the 60psi tyre sidewall. Other than getting 2 links my other option is to drill out the rivets and make longer linking bars on several sections to make up the missing link but keep the side pieces close enough.View attachment 522860View attachment 522861
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- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
I wanna minimise the chance of a puncture, the tyres are not brand new but still good and I worry if I leave a gap large enough that might be all it needs to get caught on a rock/log and twist the track pushing it far enough for the side pieces to puncture or pop the track off and damage something else.
Don't tempt me haha unfortunately they're pretty complicated forged pieces and by the time I have got the materials and made them up it'll be easier to just buy some. I'm gonna see what I can find in the uk but if I get nowhere I'll look at ordering from the us or drilling out the rivets and replacing links option.
Would be cheaper buying more links then smaller tyres if its possible to get them, I've found 2 used for £180 on ebay however my father pointed out that if I put all the connecting link plates end to and make up a new plate to join it's only increasing the gap by 2cm but over the 6/7 connecting links it makes up the missing section and all I need is some more bolts.
ajlelectronics
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I started doing the curtains for the boat, but made a complete hash of it. It looks like I have forgotten everything I onew. 
How do they get the bend in the telephone line
It was very windy !
Top of front pillars..I fired up the blasting cabinet to do some cleaning and wondered why I couldn’t see.
I’d say that tear off is well past best!
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New one in.
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A couple Mini pieces blasted. Bet you can’t guess what they are.
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And I had a quick go at a couple of my new anvil stakes.
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Anyway, 2 days ago my four way tool post wouldn't hold position whilst boring out the step inside a primary gear (in order to convert it to fit a large bore mini crank). It turned out that after a few hefty knocks the clamp down lever just spun around.
The thread in the pin had worn out, so I had to make a new one. A thinner washer and fettling got me going "for the time being" (one of my late dad's phrases). So I made a new one, from a suitably sized bolt I had, which turned out to be stainless, but that's another issue...
It turns out the Colchester Triumph round head has been modified, the solid bolt is for a single cutting tool, and mine has a for way non indexed tool post. Anyway, need to strip the top slide again to fit the shiny new bolt. Oh, one thing, again my Triumph cuts threads with twice the tpi, despite the correct gears being fitted under the end cover..
The thread in the pin had worn out, so I had to make a new one. A thinner washer and fettling got me going "for the time being" (one of my late dad's phrases). So I made a new one, from a suitably sized bolt I had, which turned out to be stainless, but that's another issue...
It turns out the Colchester Triumph round head has been modified, the solid bolt is for a single cutting tool, and mine has a for way non indexed tool post. Anyway, need to strip the top slide again to fit the shiny new bolt. Oh, one thing, again my Triumph cuts threads with twice the tpi, despite the correct gears being fitted under the end cover..
Perhaps also check using engineers blue or biro ink refill blue oil and baby's bum castor oil mixed cream that the top of the slide and the bottom of the tool post block are properly mating . My antique lathe had a mole hill on the slide where some hero had used a high tensile hex bolt to tighten the post down and pulled the molehill up , as the bolt head had barely any surface contact . I took me a few hours to blue , test & scrape it flat again in all directions and then an hour or so to make a new center bolt stud and T nut for mounting the block back on the cross slide.
Scraper just a decent worn out hacksaw blade , ground to 90% across the back of the blade and then de-burred... flat on a diamond sharpening stone .
Scraper just a decent worn out hacksaw blade , ground to 90% across the back of the blade and then de-burred... flat on a diamond sharpening stone .
Yes, done that previously, scraping and stoning done. Any doming can really throw things off. Need to make sleeve to fit between the new bolt and the bore of the tool post next, surely will help location, but I kind of like the omni-adjustabilty of my tool post being infinitely adjustable. Should have provided a mug for scale, but my bolts is 5 plus inches long, 265 thous diameter, not an hours work for me..
I also got Fizzy to square up my tool block on his precision grinder ,it was a few though out of from being square all round . That also made a big difference to the quality of the cuts & finish on precision made indexable tungsten cutters
selectedgrub
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Got some alloy conduit
Mick Annick
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- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
??Got some alloy conduit
selectedgrub
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- New Zealand
oops wrong thread
Tupers
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Well done that man.
They’re the corner pieces that join the front and side cant rails.
