sako243
Member
- Messages
- 4,228
- Location
- My mansion in Wales
This one does that. Just wind it in, turn engine over until it stops, mark. Turn engine other way and mark. Tdc is between the two.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,973
- Location
- NE London - UK
Much more accurate than using a DTI.
sako243
Member
- Messages
- 4,228
- Location
- My mansion in Wales
Hence why I went happy with a hammer.
I just use a long screw driver . . .
For cam timing on Rover Ks, I used digital indicator with a long extension - and analogue ones with bent extensions for lift on each cam.
A job I've been meaning to get round to for years. Just some knurled nuts for the depth stop on the Warco bench drill. The depth stop rod is M16x1.5 but notably undersize so the standard jam nuts are a gobbly fit. I was tempted to single point the internal thread to match the stop rod, but the tapped threads are...more acceptable. I milled the face of the stop bracket square to the stop rod too so the nuts stay tight and stop repeatably (and yes, the lower nut is intentionally thicker than the two jam nuts)
Not my preferred style,pays the bills,regular customer,they wanted them to match the adjacent ones from the ‘70’s.
However,I did like ‘70’s music,lol.
Core drilled the wall capping,posts are in 210mm. The wall slopes up to 5 degrees on some sections.
However,I did like ‘70’s music,lol.
Core drilled the wall capping,posts are in 210mm. The wall slopes up to 5 degrees on some sections.
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 8,079
- Location
- Sussex
A 12mm shank, 15mm register, M14x1 thread arbor for the little 50mm chuck I got last month. I used a die for the thread.
That means I can now use in lathe or drill chucks. May be useful as holding taps is a pain in a 3 jaw
The threaded arbor I got off amazon had no register and may have been why it had a lot of runout, not measured yet but its visibly less.
That means I can now use in lathe or drill chucks. May be useful as holding taps is a pain in a 3 jaw
The threaded arbor I got off amazon had no register and may have been why it had a lot of runout, not measured yet but its visibly less.
droopsnoot
Member
- Messages
- 1,348
- Location
- South Cheshire, UK
Blue van looks like an interference fit in the parking bay in this photo. Nice work on the railings though.
I prefer a simple style like that rather than some of the garish ones with a load of cheap components welded in. Nice scrolls are they half inch sqare
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,546
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
Surely not I can see some Loctite over there
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,546
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
On Monday I've applied some epoxy putty on the ms361 engine block to rebuild missing bit.
On yesterday I've filed down most of the excess material.
Today I've spent some time cleaning up the file because it was obviously clogged...
Then I've used the sander to finishing to remove and shape the block.
After that I've proceeded to scrape and brush off most of the dirt and grease from every single component.
On tomorrow I'll put everything in a bucket with a ton of degreaser and hot water.
It'll sit there overnight and once back home from work on Friday I'll wash and rinse everything
On yesterday I've filed down most of the excess material.
Today I've spent some time cleaning up the file because it was obviously clogged...
Then I've used the sander to finishing to remove and shape the block.
After that I've proceeded to scrape and brush off most of the dirt and grease from every single component.
On tomorrow I'll put everything in a bucket with a ton of degreaser and hot water.
It'll sit there overnight and once back home from work on Friday I'll wash and rinse everything
16x8mm.
Not a lot, just oil blacked my nuts, so to speak. They were starting to dull with fingerprints so figured I'd better give them a bit of protection
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 8,079
- Location
- Sussex
Enlarged the slot to allow 20-21mm square tools or stock for milling. Fakita grinder worked well. Did drain both Fakita 4Ah batteries, about what I'd expect for that.
Its not quite evenly full depth so I will do a few passes with a milling cutter to finish it.
I could use a faster cutting 6mm grinding wheel, they just seem very slow work!
Its not quite evenly full depth so I will do a few passes with a milling cutter to finish it.
I could use a faster cutting 6mm grinding wheel, they just seem very slow work!
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,509
- Location
- Manchester UK
Made this the other day, involved my coolant through system as it is 416 stainless, a 19x1 thread up a 19mm going down to 18mm hole, 19mm for the first 30mm then 25mm at 18mm dia. I hope you got that, sounds like some of the Chinese instructions I have been reading of late:
I’ve pulled some of our wall,in the end had to place chains around the main stems and use the front loader,plucked some lime mortar from the wall aswell.
I bought a cheap carbide tipped T slot cutter from AliExpress to do my tool holders ( hardened). Very impressed with it, a lot better results than with a dremmel.
Mark 2
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 1,300
- Location
- London UK
3layers of 9mm ply. Embedded some studded plates between two of the layers for the alu legs. There's a metal frame on the underside that follows the contours, just to stiffen.
The paint, I took inspiration from Turner's 'Fighting Temeraire'. In true Morecambe and Wise style, It's all the right colours though not necessarily in the right order.
A relatively shallow pour of resin that I foolishly did during the cold spell cured with some crevices (0.2mm deep) so sanded them out and up to 800 grit.
