Stuff you have made today

[oldbikedavey]

They're brilliant, I use mine all the time

Bought the kit, looked at it, then made a better one from an old Gamet rotating centre.
Works really well, but don't really need to use it.
Yet......

 

[oldbikedavey]

A few more tillage inroads on the sand muller, which is beginning to start to look rather sensible now.
However, abrasive wear on the various more aggressively engaged elements is causing me to look at TIG -stelliting some of them....
Or case hardening, but stelliting will be vastly more wear resistant.....

 

[Kram]

I would like to make a rotary broach, is the Hemmingway kit suitable for much larger sizes, say if I wanted a 20mm hex, I am thinking it would want to be scaled up a bit?

Am I correct to think a wobble broach could be used from a cordless drill? Say if a hex rounded off, could you drill and broach a size up in situ?

However, abrasive wear on the various more aggressively engaged elements is causing me to look at TIG -stelliting some of them....
Or case hardening, but stelliting will be vastly more wear resistant.....

I dont know how it compares to stellite but you can tig weld with scrap HSS bits as filler. They work and last very well and the result will be hardened. HSS requires to be heated and briefly held around 500c to temper afterwards.

I have some hard facing arc rods, not had any success with them yet but it would be useful if they worked and save a lot of argon.

 

[Kram]

Tuesday and today I was making a car battery adaptor. Its not quite done as it needs a coat of black paint, then a rubber sheet stuck on the backs, and to find some m5x10 bolts.

Started off with 6mm bar ground to a 45 degree angle, to fit battery tray and 1mm sheet. 1.6mm arc rods I went all the way around but a butt joint may have been much quicker. Im rubbish at inside corners atleast, well out of practise at the moment.

Then 8 small bits to make the webbing clamps. I silver brazed which was a pain, not enough heat, would have been quicker to weld.

I got some spare amazon filler caps for my chainsaws. The plan for these was to make a pair of screw in funnels, as I always empty tools at end of the day. I might epoxy in a bit of tube as it would strengthen and help aim the oil into container.

 

[Seadog]

Am I correct to think a wobble broach could be used from a cordless drill? Say if a hex rounded off, could you drill and broach a size up in situ?

I wouldn't expect a rotary broach to work in a hand-held tool. Just think about what it's doing.

 

[Kram]

I'm thinking it would be less efficient by hand but would still work. I will have to try it.
Would you imagine a mag drill should have no problems running one?

 

[m_c]

A hand tool most likely wouldn't have the required rigidity. You'd just end up with the bit staying stationary, and the drill wobbling.
Might work in a mag drill though, although I think I'd just be drilling the head off before I started trying to get a mag drill securely in position.

 

[Memmeddu]

Am I correct to think a wobble broach could be used from a cordless drill?

I don't think it'll work for the same reasons others said.
The broach have to rotate at an angle but the rotation axis has to be dead still otherwise the broach just still stuck becoming the rotation point.
I think it would be just around 1.2° of angle but would result in around 120mm lever at end of the drill handle.
It will shake your arms like nothing you ever experienced before IMHO.
Definitely need something robust that doesn't move.
Even a drill press might not be enough for the 20mm hex you said

 

[oldbikedavey]

I would like to make a rotary broach, is the Hemmingway kit suitable for much larger sizes, say if I wanted a 20mm hex, I am thinking it would want to be scaled up a bit?

Am I correct to think a wobble broach could be used from a cordless drill? Say if a hex rounded off, could you drill and broach a size up in situ?


I dont know how it compares to stellite but you can tig weld with scrap HSS bits as filler. They work and last very well and the result will be hardened. HSS requires to be heated and briefly held around 500c to temper afterwards.

I have some hard facing arc rods, not had any success with them yet but it would be useful if they worked and save a lot of argon.

Might be worth bronze-welding some old bits of machine hacksaw blades on as tips, come to think about it.....
Likely not as wear resistant as Stellite 6, but a lot less aggravation to do....

 

[oldbikedavey]

A drum - mounting for the safety cut out switch on the sand muller, and useful inroads into the purchase of the relative cabling components for the same .
All looking rather tidily competent, and highly advisable for a machine that somehow, you just know, really, really, wants to kill you very horribly.

 

[Dozzer]

Treated a filing cabinet to a "cut the lady in half" trick.
Was an old battered filing cabinet that got given 5 years ago, has the spot welded dividers in the drawers so never got used for much.
re engineered it so It's now only 2 drawers, found 2 x 10mm off cuts had lying about, cut them into triangles, drilled, tapped and welded on to each corner of the cabinet bottom, (Welding 10mm to 1m is always fun ) offcut of 18mm ply was cut, shaped and routed, oiled and screwed to the top from inside.
Friday evening gone but now have quite a handy 3D printer stand and all from free stuff i have bin dived or been given.

 

[northwest]

you can tig weld with scrap HSS bits as filler.

2mm drill bits work.

Handy reference for pilpt drilling prior to broaching:

Pre-Drill Pilot Hole Calculator for Rotary Broaches

Calculate ideal pre-drill pilot hole sizes for rotary broaches using Polygon Solutions' rotary broach pilot hole calculator.

www.polygonsolutions.com

 

[RichardM]

And my gym has a ‘Ladies Room’ full of exercise equipment that we men are not allowed to use. It’s almost as well equipped as the main gym, yet rarely do I see anybody in this exclusive sexually discriminating room.

There’s no ‘Men’s Room’.

Maybe some ladies feel shy working out in a public place, but the vast majority of females who use the main gym dress specifically to look as naked and exposed as possible. If any guy were to wear such stretchy ‘form fitting’ leggings, that reveal enough detail to count his pubes, there would be public outcry.

It’s almost like a sex education lesson some days.

Treated a filing cabinet to a "cut the lady in half" trick.
Was an old battered filing cabinet that got given 5 years ago, has the spot welded dividers in the drawers so never got used for much.
re engineered it so It's now only 2 drawers, found 2 x 10mm off cuts had lying about, cut them into triangles, drilled, tapped and welded on to each corner of the cabinet bottom, (Welding 10mm to 1m is always fun ) offcut of 18mm ply was cut, shaped and routed, oiled and screwed to the top from inside.
Friday evening gone but now have quite a handy 3D printer stand and all from free stuff i have bin dived or been given.

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I did the same with one of mine to make it onto a 3 drawer, yours does look a lot better though.

Keep the unused runners under the bottom drawer for when the overloaded originals get tired.

 

[RWD3M]

Treated a filing cabinet to a "cut the lady in half" trick.
Was an old battered filing cabinet that got given 5 years ago, has the spot welded dividers in the drawers so never got used for much.
re engineered it so It's now only 2 drawers, found 2 x 10mm off cuts had lying about, cut them into triangles, drilled, tapped and welded on to each corner of the cabinet bottom, (Welding 10mm to 1m is always fun ) offcut of 18mm ply was cut, shaped and routed, oiled and screwed to the top from inside.
Friday evening gone but now have quite a handy 3D printer stand and all from free stuff i have bin dived or been given.

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Nice job @Dozzer ! But I notice it involved some welding, are you sure you've posted that on the right Forum!

 

[Hood]

Made an aluminium foot for the side stand, a lot lighter than the stainless one I had made a few days ago and also 70mm across the flats rather than the 60 of the stainless one.

 

[Kram]

Started with fire, trying a small incinerator instead of fire pit. Less warmth but possibly less smoke aswell.
Tried mini belt sander then painted the car battery adaptors

The firepit gave me somewhere to hang them. The warmth dried the paint fast.

Ash, moisture or grinding dust has put a rough finish but you wont see it in the battery tray, its just to stop it rusting..

 

[lchris21]

...simple 10min job so I thought . Making some threaded reducers and reducing bushes whilst modifying an old bicycle fork to take a standard 12mm thru axle. I thought why not use some of that random titanium a mate salvaged out of the scrap bin for me, it will be light and corrosion resistant. First time machining the stuff and what an absolute ordeal. Took about 20 mins just to run the tap through it, couple of mm at a time. This stuff is horrible, but got it done in the end. Just a reducing bush for the other side to make, so no more tapping thank goodness..........never again

 

[beeRS]

...simple 10min job so I thought . Making some threaded reducers and reducing bushes whilst modifying an old bicycle fork to take a standard 12mm thru axle. I thought why not use some of that random titanium a mate salvaged out of the scrap bin for me, it will be light and corrosion resistant. First time machining the stuff and what an absolute ordeal. Took about 20 mins just to run the tap through it, couple of mm at a time. This stuff is horrible, but got it done in the end. Just a reducing bush for the other side to make, so no more tapping thank goodness..........never again


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That’s really neat. If such a thing isn’t already commercially available, you should be selling these. Titanium is nice, but a 6000 series aluminium would suffice for manufacture.

So will you be fitting a thru axel at the rear too?

 

[bricol]

...simple 10min job so I thought . Making some threaded reducers and reducing bushes whilst modifying an old bicycle fork to take a standard 12mm thru axle. I thought why not use some of that random titanium a mate salvaged out of the scrap bin for me, it will be light and corrosion resistant. First time machining the stuff and what an absolute ordeal. Took about 20 mins just to run the tap through it, couple of mm at a time. This stuff is horrible, but got it done in the end. Just a reducing bush for the other side to make, so no more tapping thank goodness..........never again


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Aluminium or steel forks? If aluminium, and you want it to last, some reading about galvanic corrosion (and how to slow/stop it) might be called for.

 

[Hood]

Got some button heads this morning and turned the head down slightly to fit. Much happier with them than the black stainless cap screws.