Stuff you have made today

[Richiew]

Got my second drawer done. It is much harder to make a second to match. I made the front face deeper to cover the drawer base that was protruding out of the bottom of the original drawer.

I glued and clamped an extra piece roughly 20mm deep on the original drawer to make the front deeper and match the second one. It hides the rough wood used for the drawer bottom. These Lidl F clamps came in useful. May need to get a few more of these.

Post sanding and planing the bottom to make them match. The glued joint came out pretty well. Had to point it out to the missus.

Handles on. Square enough for government work. I like the nail holes. Tells a story and reminds me of where some of the material came from.

650mm drawer at full extension, full of tools. Does the job as intended. That red spirit level is 600mm.

I need to put a finish on the wood to prevent all the dirty finger marks. It's nearly payday so the material for the top will get ordered shortly. I'm going to paint the frame purely to keep the rust at bay. I have some "storm grey" paint, so the colour shouldn't change too much.

First time making drawers. I'd do it again differently, knowing what I know now. Good learning experience and it will still do the job regardless.

 

[selectedgrub]

This one was the baby fern
A stylized version popular down here with Maori art.

It signifies growth.

 

[DAPPH]

I wouldn't joke about these topics. While doing military archaeology, I saw plowed battlefields strewn with vertebrae, teeth, femurs and boots with nails and small foot bones inside, and this layer continued to a depth of 1 meter. Every 20 cm of the soil surface there was a bone sticking out.

Digging a trench for a church who wanted to have outside flushing toilets. the surveyed line to the street sewer connection gave a big surprise . I dug 30 feet or so right through a black death plague pit by hand . Had to pick out all the bones and see that they were reburied as the church people requested .

Got my second drawer done. It is much harder to make a second to match. I made the front face deeper to cover the drawer base that was protruding out of the bottom of the original drawer.

View attachment 419124


View attachment 419125

I glued and clamped an extra piece roughly 20mm deep on the original drawer to make the front deeper and match the second one. It hides the rough wood used for the drawer bottom. These Lidl F clamps came in useful. May need to get a few more of these.
View attachment 419126

Post sanding and planing the bottom to make them match. The glued joint came out pretty well. Had to point it out to the missus.

View attachment 419127

Handles on. Square enough for government work. I like the nail holes. Tells a story and reminds me of where some of the material came from.

View attachment 419128

650mm drawer at full extension, full of tools. Does the job as intended. That red spirit level is 600mm.

View attachment 419129

I need to put a finish on the wood to prevent all the dirty finger marks. It's nearly payday so the material for the top will get ordered shortly. I'm going to paint the frame purely to keep the rust at bay. I have some "storm grey" paint, so the colour shouldn't change too much.

First time making drawers. I'd do it again differently, knowing what I know now. Good learning experience and it will still do the job regardless.

If you want drawers all the same size make them as a box then cut around the edge equally on a bench saw , do a test cut on some scrap the same width & turn the wood over , perfect when the saw cut is the same from both sides just watch where you put the screws .

Thought :-
For the next set instead of making the handle as an " L " route out a deep finger pull hole groove and keep the ends closed . L shaped handles often break at the corner of the L .


Not only did I make six deep drawers for Munchkins bed room built in wardrobe and drawer unit , I reinforced the bottom drawer base with 12 mm marine ply so she could stand in it if she wanted to reach the internal top full width shelf . All drawers are on triple heavy duty 90 kg extending runners

Around the same time 16 yrs ago I also made 7 boxes to fit my filing cabinet drawer with about 8 mm of free space at the side of the drawer so i can pick the trays out , these were cut glued and screwed as boxes then sliced in half so all trays are precisely the same height.
Nowadays all the trays are filled with new nails screws etc , it's handy to easily get to them & fully fill the drawer instead of having half the available volume of the drawer wasted & empty .

Another filing cabinet draw making session is due as I have six dismantled & nicely drying wood pallets all the tray bottoms will again be 6 mm marine ply as it is brill getting B&Q to cut strips of ply to precise widths . This time I hope to totally fill the cabinet with the small trays as it's time to have a serious mancupboard clean out .

 

[Richiew]

My handles definitely need improvement. I cut one of the angles the wrong way. They are thinnest where all the stresses are when being pulled out and thickest where I'm trying to get my fingers into the gap.

I have more benches to make. I've cut some of the steel already, it's showing on the corner of the table. These will be narrow benches to fit against a wall. The first one is going to measure 20" by 52". I think I'll do more drawers. They are a faff on to make but very useful. They've come in extremely handy even while being constructed.

 

[DAPPH]

Some kind person donated some off cut tree bits , most of it has been taken to the local men's shed as there is a thriving group of wood turners , stick makers and other carpentry aspects ,but I did keep some for my own at home projects

Getting the wood from Kent to Ammanford was done with th help of ON /OFF who brought it to Gloucester along with some engineering things . I shipped it from Gloucester to the shed many thanks ON /OFF .

I'm making some pen sets for all concerned in getting the wood .

Success rate making the pen sets in wet , age seasoned wood is not great as wood worm and boring beetles get into the wood if it is left as trunks on the ground for years . This however does have an advantage mould spores creep in the timber and run down the grain & into capillary feeders creating some amazing patterns and colours it's called " Spalted wood " .
Bone dry very carefully monitored spalted wood can be very expensive .
In truth the wood we got really need to dry out uncut for a year or two but I've experimented eventually making two writing instruments , a mechanical pencil and a retractable ball point pen . I used my antique engineers screw cutting lathe shaving off a few thou at a time on high speed feed of 0.0179 thou.

I have loads of pen & pencil making gear as I've been doing it for a long time . Seven turnings blew apart at wood worm holes , bug bore holes , wet knots or stress cracks that happened years ago during the felling of the tree.
Sods law meant it happened when I was down to five thou off the finished sizes .

 

[Moose McAlpine]

Made use of a spare Allen key, and a random knurled ally knob i made. Cut the bent end off, turned the end down to round, drilled an undersize hole in the knob and pressed it in.



It has one very specific use, for the screws holding the soft jaw inserts in the lathe chuck:

 

[DAPPH]

Made use of a spare Allen key, and a random knurled ally knob i made. Cut the bent end off, turned the end down to round, drilled an undersize hole in the knob and pressed it in.

View attachment 419182

It has one very specific use, for the screws holding the soft jaw inserts in the lathe chuck:

View attachment 419183

Interesting , were the jaws already threaded like that ?
My antique lathe's chuck jaws on both the three & four jaw chucks appear to be made of quality hardened steel

 

[Moose McAlpine]

Interesting , were the jaws already threaded like that ?
My antique lathe's chuck jaws on both the three & four jaw chucks appear to be made of quality hardened steel

No, i made the holes with a carbide end mill. They're hardened, and through hardened at that. They have threaded brass inserts pressed in, so if a thread were to get damaged it would be easy to replace the insert without affecting the jaw.

 

[Hood]

Had a wee think about the landing hooks I made the last day, getting the bending positions was a pain and as can be seen they were not the most accurate as time is money and customers don't always want to pay if they function just as well and are cheaper.

Anyway I thought I would adjust the drawing to have half circles cut at each bending point which would make my life easier aligning them.

Cut a test pair.

Bent them up, again not taking too much care but it was much easier/quicker and they came out more equal so all is good They were also quicker to do as aligning was easier but don't tell the customers

 

[magnet]

After the two swivelling tilly lamp hooks I made earlier in the week. I wanted to see how small I could get them.
Well we've been a bit slack at work

 

[Kram]

Trimming another tree, this is a before pic. So far taken just some lower branches.

Also fixed the baby saw. It appears the tensioner screw will work fine in the metal body instead of the plastic chain guard, just with the addition of one washer and removing the bevel gears. Next I want to put an alu insert for the bar clamp as the plastic is bending at the nuts, I am tempted to remake the guard in alu sheet.

Will the parkside plasmas cut 1/2" alu?

 

[lchris21]

Finally got my water container holder I fabricated a few weeks back mounted in my van. Its anchored to the tie down hoop which I can still use if needs. and supported by a small angle bracket up front. Its up off the floor and out of the way now, and feels sturdy enough to hold 20kgs of sloshing water

 

[Anguz]

Made some racking with some unistrut that was getting dumped... just need to sort the boxes now I have some room

 

[MattF]

Can finally store these two on the wall now, instead of them littering the benches.



Makita recip saw & compact Bosch SDS.

 

[Brad93]

Fitted the drawers I got from @northwest to the van.

These will be for consumables, small parts like switches and contactors, crimping tools, etc.

I would use it for tools but I don't keep tools in the van overnight. Not worth the risk.

Shelf had to be cut down and a return added in the box pan folder.

 

[Hood]

Not made by me but designed and drawn ready for a friend to 3D print for me, he said it was a PITA to do.

It is a clasp so that when I remove the Kriga bag I can just clip the straps into it to stop them flapping about leke below.

I will be making a new rack plate without the hole and text cut out and some extra slots for the straps that will get permanently fixed to the plate.

Like so.

 

[Hood]

I have just done this for my pal as a thanks for doing the 3D print.

and the other side.

 

[ukracer]

I have just done this for my pal as a thanks for doing the 3D print.

View attachment 419609

and the other side.

View attachment 419610

whos dog is it. Is there any chance I could have the files as we lost our dog who looked remarkably the same...I guess most black and white collies do though..

 

[Hood]

whos dog is it. Is there any chance I could have the files as we lost our dog who looked remarkably the same...I guess most black and white collies do though..

It is my friends dog.
What files do you want?

 

[Hood]

By "what files do you want" I am meaning is it the Lightburn file or the isolated pictures?