- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Brad93
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You donut, why didn't you ring me?Made 44mm vice screw and a quicky travelling steady
Needs bsw bolts for steady. Got stuck in traffic and ruined half a day getting them , got home and they’d given me unc
Then I found some at home whilst looking for m12
Power been off since Friday but they’ve connected generators now so I could get on
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pressbrake1
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Thanks but I just went to the fasteners place as that’s where you find them!
Nice job. I could do with making a steady like that.Made 44mm vice screw and a quicky travelling steady
Needs bsw bolts for steady. Got stuck in traffic and ruined half a day getting them , got home and they’d given me unc
Then I found some at home whilst looking for m12
Power been off since Friday but they’ve connected generators now so I could get on
View attachment 389046 View attachment 389047 View attachment 389048 View attachment 389049 View attachment 389050
For the moment I'm turning some really lovely stuff.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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This is the the ladder style scaff boarding I'm replacing with Stok Board 533mm between inside of stiles and 300 between the rungs . It better supported than I'd hoped for .
Decided this morning after cutting with a 1/2 " router cutter & a dry fit to use a 30 yr long life semi setting mastic to stick the boards to the frame & weight them down with the bonsai plants . My lass is very very please at the result though £60 for six tubes mastic ( local screwfix ) was a bit of a shock .
Bare bone rack scrubbed clean but still with the origina resin bleed out stuck onth styles
Use a CLS floor joist as the guide for the router , found it 2 mm ( Not too shabby ) out of straight so tomorrow I hope to check the stiles of my extending ladder & if they are straighter use the ladder clamped to the baords as the routyer guide .
As yo can see this little 600 watt 1/4 inch shank router pushing anhalf inch cutter did a decent job . the 8x 34 sheetl was set up on a bench made of old stacked wooden pallets with the router set to 17.5 mm depth to cut the 16 mm thick Stok Board .
It's a lovely clean cut . First cut was with the angle grinder nd a bit naff to be honest but the router cut was briliant. The scratched on line marks at the edge of the cut are from me trying to set things up using a large heavy homemade " T ) square as a marking gauge ,, the router & clamped down floor joist won hands down . It didn't cut well with a 110 mm dis cutter with a " 1.5 mm thick " Cut all TCT impregnated blade in it .
It took over 10 min with angle grinder and blade ..just six minutes with the router .
Tomorrows line of attack is to set up two boards cut the top right through and finely channel out the bottom one as I need 4 smaller sections to fill in the ends of each the four rack s. It might just work out well or I may have to cut up a lot more of the second board ,
An added bonus is that I can get two floors out of one board and have a four inch x 8 foot strip left over . Tis strip will be used to make a tray edge round each bench to hold blown over plants on the benches as it get's a tad expensive when the wind blows half a dozen hand made bonsai trees & £45 to £80 or more pots off the bench on to the concrete with the usual result of broken branches and a shattered pot .
I took the precaution of adding three extra 8x 4 sheets for future mancupboard projects .
Decided this morning after cutting with a 1/2 " router cutter & a dry fit to use a 30 yr long life semi setting mastic to stick the boards to the frame & weight them down with the bonsai plants . My lass is very very please at the result though £60 for six tubes mastic ( local screwfix ) was a bit of a shock .
Bare bone rack scrubbed clean but still with the origina resin bleed out stuck onth styles
Use a CLS floor joist as the guide for the router , found it 2 mm ( Not too shabby ) out of straight so tomorrow I hope to check the stiles of my extending ladder & if they are straighter use the ladder clamped to the baords as the routyer guide .
As yo can see this little 600 watt 1/4 inch shank router pushing anhalf inch cutter did a decent job . the 8x 34 sheetl was set up on a bench made of old stacked wooden pallets with the router set to 17.5 mm depth to cut the 16 mm thick Stok Board .
It's a lovely clean cut . First cut was with the angle grinder nd a bit naff to be honest but the router cut was briliant. The scratched on line marks at the edge of the cut are from me trying to set things up using a large heavy homemade " T ) square as a marking gauge ,, the router & clamped down floor joist won hands down . It didn't cut well with a 110 mm dis cutter with a " 1.5 mm thick " Cut all TCT impregnated blade in it .
It took over 10 min with angle grinder and blade ..just six minutes with the router .
Tomorrows line of attack is to set up two boards cut the top right through and finely channel out the bottom one as I need 4 smaller sections to fill in the ends of each the four rack s. It might just work out well or I may have to cut up a lot more of the second board ,
An added bonus is that I can get two floors out of one board and have a four inch x 8 foot strip left over . Tis strip will be used to make a tray edge round each bench to hold blown over plants on the benches as it get's a tad expensive when the wind blows half a dozen hand made bonsai trees & £45 to £80 or more pots off the bench on to the concrete with the usual result of broken branches and a shattered pot .
I took the precaution of adding three extra 8x 4 sheets for future mancupboard projects .selectedgrub
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I finished a handmade stamp I didn't take many photos of the progress as nor much interest.
selectedgrub
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Ditto this big dice.
It's a base for a table lamp.
I still need to rub the lotion on it's skin
It's a base for a table lamp.
I still need to rub the lotion on it's skin
Mick Annick
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More chuffing railings…
7m across the front, .8m return one end, 1.6m the other, uprights 14mm sq, posts 30 x 10, horizontals 30 x 8, 40 x 15 handrail to be fixed on site
7m across the front, .8m return one end, 1.6m the other, uprights 14mm sq, posts 30 x 10, horizontals 30 x 8, 40 x 15 handrail to be fixed on site
Kram
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From the colour, looked like you've lost a few teeth
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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As per the pm I think they're "chatter" marks. Basically the irregularities and imperfections of the print being faithfully transferred and "copied" by the cutter. I'm oddly pleased it copies so accurately!
I used silicone grease on one of the assemblies to smooth the action.
Are you cutting that dry? I reckon some cutting lubricant would help.
slim_boy_fat
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Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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The accompanying video:
I was thinking it needs constant lubrication whilst cutting. That and do a cut and withdraw the tool rather than winding the spinning tool back though what you've just cut.
Would it work to do the first cut then stop the lathe and wind the helical jig back to the start. Then fire up the lathe and do the second cut?
The principle is there.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Are those white things in the glass fallen out teeth , caused by drinking it ? ?
MysterG
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Damn, wish I'd though of that. Not as a lamp base just as a 'thing'!Ditto this big dice.
It's a base for a table lamp.
I still need to rub the lotion on it's skin
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Would a four or six flute cutter make any difference to the finish of the helical?As per the pm I think they're "chatter" marks. Basically the irregularities and imperfections of the print being faithfully transferred and "copied" by the cutter. I'm oddly pleased it copies so accurately!
I used silicone grease on one of the assemblies to smooth the action.
Are you cutting that dry? I reckon some cutting lubricant would help.
Closer examination of my routing out the Stok Board gave a similar chattering cut and the wood router bit I used only had two flutes , . Where I slowed down the router travel I got a much smoother finish . .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- 7,489
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Put a tiny battery operated gyroscope inside , operated by a mercury tilt or piezo switch with counter & trigger switch so when you tilt it or tap a set rhythm on it in a certain way you'll always get a six face on top .Damn, wish I'd though of that. Not as a lamp base just as a 'thing'!
