ajlelectronics
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Wasn't it Yootha Joyce who was always looking for an Action Man with gripping hands? That just shows that it was a fictional comedy.Don't forget the gripping hands!
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
today I had a little boring job to do 
for one of my toy boats I needed to make bronze bush for the prop shaft that has an O ring to seal it.....
......and the prop shaft will a 1.00mm stainless welding rod. I was thinking of using a carbon fibre prop shaft but with the sideways loading I think the stainless steel may be more wear resistant. I also wanted to make it removeable so it ended up being a a short bolt that was M6 x 0.5mm with a 7mm hex head so the half machined bolt.
so then its cut off and centred in the hole in the middle
and then a recess was bored to fit the O ring, the hole that the boring tool is going in is 2.4mm, and the boring tool will go though that, the recess was then cut to stop the O ring coming out
and the final item on a 1mm welding rod.
for one of my toy boats I needed to make bronze bush for the prop shaft that has an O ring to seal it.....
......and the prop shaft will a 1.00mm stainless welding rod. I was thinking of using a carbon fibre prop shaft but with the sideways loading I think the stainless steel may be more wear resistant. I also wanted to make it removeable so it ended up being a a short bolt that was M6 x 0.5mm with a 7mm hex head so the half machined bolt.
so then its cut off and centred in the hole in the middle
and then a recess was bored to fit the O ring, the hole that the boring tool is going in is 2.4mm, and the boring tool will go though that, the recess was then cut to stop the O ring coming out
and the final item on a 1mm welding rod.
Dev
8th generation, Weyland type
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Made some decent progress on my lowrider3 today. ive ordered the bits that are holding me up - crimp on connectors for the endstops, 16 tooth pulleys (I thought I had some but can’t find them).
The bulk of the assembly is done, it’s mostly wiring now.
docs.v1e.com
The bulk of the assembly is done, it’s mostly wiring now.
LowRider CNC V3 - V1 Engineering Documentation
docs.v1e.com
Beeezer
Things are really chaining for the better….
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Gizza job….Wasn't it Yootha Joyce who was always looking for an Action Man with gripping hands? That just shows that it was a fictional comedy.
Erie Fred
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Looks very close to JD green.
Blue Chips
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Work in progress:
Finally got the rest of the marble tiles mortared onto the backer boards of the shower enclosure in the future upstairs bathroom of our 'old house' project. I used a polymer-modified mortar, which is extremely tenacious stuff; I had to replace one tile that somehow had slipped a bit, and it wasn't easy!
It was the first time I used this particular leveling clip system on a tile job, and I think it worked pretty well.
The next steps to finishing the tiles will be:
- Clean up the mortar remnants.
- Grout the tiles with a polymer-modified sanded grout.
- Caulk the outer edges.
- Seal the tiles and the grout with a high-end sealer.
I hope to get those steps done over the coming week or so, sandwiching them between other tasks I'm working on. My lower back has been acting up a bit, so we'll see how it goes.
Finally got the rest of the marble tiles mortared onto the backer boards of the shower enclosure in the future upstairs bathroom of our 'old house' project. I used a polymer-modified mortar, which is extremely tenacious stuff; I had to replace one tile that somehow had slipped a bit, and it wasn't easy!
It was the first time I used this particular leveling clip system on a tile job, and I think it worked pretty well.
The next steps to finishing the tiles will be:
- Clean up the mortar remnants.
- Grout the tiles with a polymer-modified sanded grout.
- Caulk the outer edges.
- Seal the tiles and the grout with a high-end sealer.
I hope to get those steps done over the coming week or so, sandwiching them between other tasks I'm working on. My lower back has been acting up a bit, so we'll see how it goes.
slim_boy_fat
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^^ I like the attention to detail with the mitred joints at the window, most would have just used butt joints. 
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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Nice, question is, did you size the tiles to the window, or the window to the tiles?!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Blue Chips
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Thanks. It was a little of both. Here are a few details:
I bought a double-glazed 12" x 12" vinyl-framed window and I used 6" x 12" tiles, which made it a little easier to compute where to cut the hole in the wall so that the grout joints in the wall tiles would align with the window opening. I allowed a little wiggle room, which helped, but I still had to do a little minor trimming, such as on the row of tiles above the window. I designed the hole through the wall so that it would be totally waterproof, both inside and out, and also allow for any minor movement differential (from expansion/contraction) via interior-to-exterior connection gaps filled with flexible marine-grade waterproof polyether caulk. Before caulking, the backer board inside the window opening was coated with waterproof epoxy and the seams reinforced with epoxy and fiberglass backer board tape with an alkali-resistant coating. The exposed edges of the wood sheathing and clapboards were also coated with epoxy before caulking.
As to sizing the tiles inside the window opening itself, I measured and cut those to fit after all of the wall tiles were up.
It worked out pretty well on the outside of the house as far as alignments are concerned, with the top of the window frame at the same height as the top of the adjoining window frame and the bottom aligned with the bottom edge of the clapboard. There's a drip-edge groove under the frame, which you can't see in the photo, and the window is pretty well protected from rain anyway, as it's directly under an eave that extends out roughly 10 inches.
A leveling system can be very handy, especially when the backer board isn't absolutely flat. These backer boards were 'reasonably' flat, but not perfect, as they were installed on rough-sawn studs. The only thing I don't like about leveling clips is that if you get a little too much mortar behind a tile and it squishes out against or inside the clips, it's hard to get it all out while the mortar is wet, so it will require some joint cleaning after the mortar has set, but in this case it wasn't too bad. It only took about half an hour to clean the excess mortar out of the joints in preparation for grouting.Cheers, kicking myself even more, again, that I didn't use a tile levelling system
Thank you. It was a little more work to do it that way, mainly because I had to be fairly precise. I had to re-cut a few of those tiles and do a bit of shimming under the tiles to get the corner bevels and joints to line up well. I bonded the mitre joints together with silicone as I was assembling the tiles, so they're well sealed.^^ I like the attention to detail with the mitred joints at the window, most would have just used butt joints.
BTW, you can see the improvised 'tool' I made to hold the upper two tiles in place while the mortar was setting...just a couple of blocks of wood, a piece of 1/2" all-thread, and a couple of nuts and washers for adjusting the height. Worked a charm, and made from leftover stuff.
I'll post a photo or two if/when I ever finish the grouting and enclosure installation.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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That's the kicker for me. My plasterboards and backer boards were dead flat, as was the floor. It was the perfect surface to tile on.
Trouble is I'd never tiled before and got caught up in the moment. Started with the hardest corner first as well!
Blue Chips
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Well, leveling system or not, it looks like you did a really great job! That represents a lot of work!
The blue lights (LEDs?) in the niches are a nice touch!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Well, leveling system or not, it looks like you did a really great job! That represents a lot of work!
The blue lights (LEDs?) in the niches are a nice touch!
Yep, a lot of graft went into it. Close up not so good
It could have been.....The LED lights are cheapo LAPP, stainless steel decking lights. Got them on clearance at Screwfix for peanuts.
Dimmer switch helps...
Last edited:
selectedgrub
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Yes, Brothel blue, it is in this season.
Mick Annick
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It’s all I seem to do these days, finished one last week, got another today, thought this is for 10m of ‘park’ railings for a terrace.
Neat. How to you anchor it, resin? Also how do you finish/paint them?
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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A quick and dirty stainless plate o/of an old door kick plate. This for the 3D printer. A rectangular hole drillled and filed to take a male Molex connector. Fitted in place of the original mains in socket. This will just have 12V on it:
Anyone point me at a cheap crimp tool for these "Molex" crimp connectors?
Anyone point me at a cheap crimp tool for these "Molex" crimp connectors?
Mick Annick
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I do similar work, 150mm into the stone and fixed with resin, paint I get made up locally, 2 coats of anti rust primer and one or two coats of acrylic over that.
Peinture ral .com - Vente en ligne de peintures Ral en pots et aérosols - Peinture-RAL.com
Peinture ral .com - Le plus grand choix de peinture Ral en pots et aérosols. Finition mate, satinée et brillante. Peinture Teintes Ral et nuancier ral
www.peinture-ral.com
