Will I have to shield this motor? It's 3 phase and fully sealed, so swarf in the fan is probably going to be annoying until it's removed. I'm more concerned about overheating on low revs with the vfd if it's shielded. I don't use flood coolant.
I'm disappointed!
That link says 'adult content ' but all I can see is the interior of a car!![]()
That's a great idea. Won't bother my knees as it's at the back.Fluid and sucking in swarf wont be great over time, depends on the amount and how fine it is.
I would make a upper half cowl and add it to the blower cover, as long as it does not get in the way and take chunks out of your knees
I have one Brad, I removed it for the motor/vfd conversion. It will be going straight back on once I've painted a few bits and done the wiring.Chuck a splashback on your machine
My first few weeks in Germany back in 1970 , My wife & I stayed over one December Friday night in a friends flat .You've not lived until you've stared across the bedroom to the door, thinking: "I've got to get out of a warm(ish) bed & make it across to there".![]()
Once you get the dull grey colour in the barrel , usually on the thrust side of the piston travel it's time to replace barrel & piston as the chromed surface has worn away & it won't belong before the piston rings start picking up off the cylinder walls .This showed up yesterday, everything in the right orientation, holes in the right places. No toughness in the bore or on the piston that I can feel. I had this ordered before I tried cleaning the old cylinder with oven cleaner. It’s nice and smooth, there is like a dark shadow that I can’t shift. Might just buy another piston and use it and the old cylinder on the other 254 I have.
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....If you do a fair few overhauls it's sensible to modify a chainsaw spark plug so it becomes a screw in compression gauge . Then start recording what a fully repaired saw registeres after a complete over haul with pot, piston and crank seals ...pressure test wet & dry are for all the properly repairs gear is .
Once you get the dull grey colour in the barrel , usually on the thrust side of the piston travel it's time to replace barrel & piston as the chromed surface has worn away & it won't belong before the piston rings start picking up off the cylinder walls .
If you do a fair few overhauls it's sensible to modify a chainsaw spark plug so it becomes a screw in compression gauge . Then start recording what a fully repaired saw registeres after a complete over haul with pot, piston and crank seals ...pressure test wet & dry are for all the properly repairs gear is .
It a doddle to whip off the air filter , wash of the plug area , give it a breath off an air line , remove the plug & insert the tester . open the throttle wide and pull it over three times ..... doing both a wet & dry test .
That way within 3 to 4 minutes you can tell the owner what it will cost to repair and not be left with a scrap chainsaw and a loss of income due to time taken investigating things when they don't come back to you for a repair or a new one .
I rarely did a pot & piston without replacing the crank seals as well as checking the float of the con rod on the crank . engraved the job number on the body & wrote every thing down on the invoices /quotes as I kept a copy .
Were you in your Mankini?First start up went well, two or three pulls and she went. Needs tuned but she’s alive! Tried to put the video up but can’t. Me jumping about like a loon shouting, she’s alive she’s alive was quite funny. Shame none of you will see it![]()
This one lives in the truckFunnily enough I’ve been looking at pressure testing kits.