- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I finally organised my battery chargers, I'm sick of them taking up a corner of my workbench. Makita and Snap On can't be bothered to provide fixing points, so they're tightly strapped down with some reinforced PVC banding stuff.
Doesn't look like much, but between rewiring that non-rewirable extension lead, moving the D bit grinder, moving the inverter and making sure nothing hits the garage door or the lathe belt cover, it took all morning.
Doesn't look like much, but between rewiring that non-rewirable extension lead, moving the D bit grinder, moving the inverter and making sure nothing hits the garage door or the lathe belt cover, it took all morning.
Some holes in some cast iron pulleys. Bored out on my lathe, one to 24mm for the motor other to 40mm for the lathe spindle. Just in prep for my 3 phase vfd conversion. Haven't worked out how to do the keyways yet.
Lathe just about hung on, old motor is screaming!
Lathe just about hung on, old motor is screaming!
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
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Came from Brundells
Can't find boxes or delivery note so no part No. Sorry
Kram
Member
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I did mine by broaching in the lathe using a HSS bit and winding the saddle in and out.
Yeah I'm thinking of that or same on the mill using the quill. I don't want to have to buy broaches. So making something in hss and slowly doing it will probs be my best option.
The keyways are already in the shafts, it's the pulley keyways I'm struggling with!
Gragson
Member
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Have a very similar looking TEC motor I mounted recently to a Pollard drill.
The pulley was bored out by a friend, hobbymat I have not big enough.
On advice I used a 8mm dog point screw through the pulley, which I mated into 4mm recess I made in the motor shaft opposite side of the keyway. It's been good, but your application might be more demanding.
If I went belt and braces, I would go steady and just file carefully for the keyway - again on advice - which I might still do.
Thanks for checking. I think they sell mostly King gear. I need to make a door like the one you are doing, and hoping to find a cheaper supplier of the bits than brundel. Cheers
Memmeddu
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That's a good idea it will help to save time.
We use some sort of shaper at work, essentially the same machine but vertical
Use your mill to slot the keyway sideways - leave it round on the top as the key drives on the sides. Assuming you are securing with a socket set screw though the pulley onto the key, the key will remain in place in the shaft well enough.
Pls can you explain, I don't see how I can do it sideways? Thanks.
I think I've worked out what you mean. Rather than plunge, lower the end mill to full depth of the inside of the pulley, then come in from the side. That's not a bad idea. I will probs need a longer end mill though.
Fred Trevvett
Member
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I've never done anything like this, but could you mill slightly 'too deep', so there's less material to remove manually? Like this:
Yellow line is milling pass, then you've only got the two corners in blue to square off. Blue dotted line shows where the base of the key would sit, obviously it's the sides of the key that are taking the load not the base so it doesn't need much contact area, just enough to stop it moving.
Yellow line is milling pass, then you've only got the two corners in blue to square off. Blue dotted line shows where the base of the key would sit, obviously it's the sides of the key that are taking the load not the base so it doesn't need much contact area, just enough to stop it moving.
