This one has a data out, unfortunately you would have to drill the case to get the cable out! Aldi ones have a cover over the data out . The length of the scales would be the limiting factor IMHO, mounting accurately I don't think would be a problem as long as you can attach /make brackets.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,418
- Location
- Orkney
I think he likes the parcel tape as its shiny and smooth
daleyd
Member
- Messages
- 10,440
- Location
- Wrexham, North Wales
Soap oil is the official version, it stinks and it was the smell of my childhood (my dad was a shuttering joiner, he came home every day stinking of the stuff !!)
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
Tallow is also very good.
Agroshield
Member
- Messages
- 6,176
Araldite a piece of aluminium to it and drill that. Softer and less chance of an error.
Melvyn Best
Member
- Messages
- 1,838
- Location
- Cambridge
Clingfilm works well with fibreglass, it might work well with concrete if it isn’t too fragile
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Finished my croquembouche.
View attachment 292992
Stands about 12" tall, it would have been bigger but I got a bit peckish while I was assembling.
It looks like the centre piece of a California Crisp making cocktail party .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I too like the idea of using a new metal caliper . For those with the carbon fibre ones would superglue on perfectly de painted , roughed & cleaned surfaces suffice ?
Of the metal one , maybe warm the stick once it's been removed from the sensor , carefully peel the scale off the stick , heat the end of the stick to dull red and let it cool naturally it should anneal the hardened stainless steel enough for you to drill & tap or just drill it. Take the burrs of , polish it with Brasso & some thick card , wash it in acetone / petrol etc. to remove anything that will cause abrasive crud to stick to it ..reassemble & fit .
Refitting the scale accurately is not so critical as you can set zero / reset zero in any position as well as flick between metric or imperial .
What suprises me most is that the magnet doesn't interfere with the caliper. Great Idea.Well not today but just before I collected the Centec.
Following on from @Hood putting a DRO on his tailstock I invalidated the Lidl guarantee
View attachment 292916
Then did a bit more to it, fitted a magnet from an old hard drive and made a clamp!
View attachment 292919
So it fits like this
View attachment 292917
View attachment 292918
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,489
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I gather that these calipers work on capacitance & counting each capacitance total as you move past the zeroed point . The metal block will concentrate & shield the guts from magnetism like an anti magnetic watch / & prevent oscillations of th magnetic field .
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,477
- Location
- New Zealand
Fancy tensioner for a linkage.
that stuff is in very short supply. down out way. not good
Fraserb
Member
- Messages
- 1,561
- Location
- Scottish Borders
Were down about 5-7 ton a hectare on last year's first cut
Edward Teach
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 995
- Location
- South West England
A little fettling with a few files, and they will be the businessI had a go at making Roman numerals for my clock today. I will paint them but I need to add fixings on the back first.
I cut the 3/16" rod after working out the sizes on paper. I am quite pleased but I know they are not brilliant
View attachment 291755
Mug for scale, they scale nicely with the clock. I will show the whole thing once it is complete.
View attachment 291756
Actually yesterday,I’m told by the customer this is a French style of curtain pole,it’s too long to show the other end,which is a hook to drop into the holed cleat that also mounts to the wall.
This one acts as a room divider so swings around 90deg and parks in the other cleat.
This one acts as a room divider so swings around 90deg and parks in the other cleat.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
A Fun rebuild, I should say it is picture heavy.
But a picture paints a thousand words.
Part 1.
A tired Mamod Road Roller.
From about 1961.
This is an early forward speed only model. "Meths." fuelled, solid wheels, cranked handle level plug and a short safety valve.
Nut and bolt construction.
It is extremely well used and is in dire need of attention.
Known issues when it arrived,
Whistle and whistle tank insert gone.
Level plug gone.
Level plug boiler insert stripped.
Seized piston.
Front roller sterring bar bent.
Both axils bent.
Missing drive belt.
What looked like a crack in the chimney.
Assorted screws, washer, nuts and bolts missing or clearly damaged.
I suspected a leaky seam on the boiler.
The whistle boss always lets go, when the boiler is ran dry. The solder melts and that's it.
Dismantling.
I pre ordered the bits I knew I needed.
I made some new boiler inserts, plus ordered some any way.
Turns out the inserts I made would not solder very well. So I was glad I had replacements.
This bent crank shaft bracket is not good, they are brass. They are know to crack when trying to bring them back in to line.
So strip the paint off, cold. Using paint stripper and wire wool. You need to be very clean, so a wipe with a de greasing agent with help. Warm it gently with a hot air paint stripper. Place on a flat metal surface, with some gear oil.
Then gently press flat. Do not hammer it, just press. It will take a few goes.
If it cracks then a silver solder or replacement will be needed.
The rear solder seam on the boiler had failed.
So it was cleaned up, flux applied and a ring of thing solder dropped into place. The 2 securing screws also were damaged, so they were removed and suitable replacements found.
The 2 new boiler inserts were also prepped with flux and a 2 dry runs were done.
Experience tells me you get one go at this. Turns out I was wrong on this.
Everyday is a learning day.
Stripped and cleaned ready to be rebuilt.
The alloy parts were stripped using paint stripper and wire wool then cleaned in warm soapy water.
The steel parts were left in a warm, but mild, citric acid bath for 2 days. Then cleaned in hot soapy water.
The chimney crack was looked at, turns out it is an original casting flaw. So it was left.
Axil and steering link were also teased back into shape, gentle force and patients.
The piston and cylinder.
It was very reluctant to be separated.
So I hung the crank end from some SS wire, filled the bore with grease and added a 2lb weight to the cylinder block. Then warmed the lot up until melted grease ran from the steam inlet. It still did not free itself.
So plan B.
Use compressing force. That got it to move a bit. Then slowly with heat and freezing spray I had it in bits. Then cleaned with vinegar and wire wool.
The boiler was a pain. Took 3 attempts to get it to be pressure tight. My repairs held. But the safety valve insert leaked. Then the front plate let go.
To cold test it I have some foot pump adapters to fit the level plug and safety plug holes.
The fire box came up very well. That is all original parts.
The paint is VHT paint, the clear coat is as well. It was a fiddly job getting the 6 screws, 6 washers and 6 nuts in. But coffee and more coffee was the answer.
Post First hot run.
We are water tight, steam tight and it runs very well.
Piston needs a bit more adjustments, but I will steam it a few more times.
Rear end view.
Level plug and whistle in place. The hunt is on for a correct whistle, should be a side lever one.
Back rollers cleaned and polished.
Scuttle added and a correct "Meths." burner tray fitted.
Just the view from the top. The rear of the boiler has shed some paint. Just visible by the whistle. But they all did that.
Safety/filler plug is re-built with new rings and sealing washers.
The whistle and level plug arrive with seals and washers.
I think the two copper pipes may have some hard water despotise in them, that will wait.
A long way from how it arrived.
It now has a new lease of life.
But a picture paints a thousand words.
Part 1.
A tired Mamod Road Roller.
From about 1961.
This is an early forward speed only model. "Meths." fuelled, solid wheels, cranked handle level plug and a short safety valve.
Nut and bolt construction.
It is extremely well used and is in dire need of attention.
Known issues when it arrived,
Whistle and whistle tank insert gone.
Level plug gone.
Level plug boiler insert stripped.
Seized piston.
Front roller sterring bar bent.
Both axils bent.
Missing drive belt.
What looked like a crack in the chimney.
Assorted screws, washer, nuts and bolts missing or clearly damaged.
I suspected a leaky seam on the boiler.
The whistle boss always lets go, when the boiler is ran dry. The solder melts and that's it.
Dismantling.
I pre ordered the bits I knew I needed.
I made some new boiler inserts, plus ordered some any way.
Turns out the inserts I made would not solder very well. So I was glad I had replacements.
This bent crank shaft bracket is not good, they are brass. They are know to crack when trying to bring them back in to line.
So strip the paint off, cold. Using paint stripper and wire wool. You need to be very clean, so a wipe with a de greasing agent with help. Warm it gently with a hot air paint stripper. Place on a flat metal surface, with some gear oil.
Then gently press flat. Do not hammer it, just press. It will take a few goes.
If it cracks then a silver solder or replacement will be needed.
The rear solder seam on the boiler had failed.
So it was cleaned up, flux applied and a ring of thing solder dropped into place. The 2 securing screws also were damaged, so they were removed and suitable replacements found.
The 2 new boiler inserts were also prepped with flux and a 2 dry runs were done.
Experience tells me you get one go at this. Turns out I was wrong on this.
Everyday is a learning day.
Stripped and cleaned ready to be rebuilt.
The alloy parts were stripped using paint stripper and wire wool then cleaned in warm soapy water.
The steel parts were left in a warm, but mild, citric acid bath for 2 days. Then cleaned in hot soapy water.
The chimney crack was looked at, turns out it is an original casting flaw. So it was left.
Axil and steering link were also teased back into shape, gentle force and patients.
The piston and cylinder.
It was very reluctant to be separated.
So I hung the crank end from some SS wire, filled the bore with grease and added a 2lb weight to the cylinder block. Then warmed the lot up until melted grease ran from the steam inlet. It still did not free itself.
So plan B.
Use compressing force. That got it to move a bit. Then slowly with heat and freezing spray I had it in bits. Then cleaned with vinegar and wire wool.
The boiler was a pain. Took 3 attempts to get it to be pressure tight. My repairs held. But the safety valve insert leaked. Then the front plate let go.
To cold test it I have some foot pump adapters to fit the level plug and safety plug holes.
The fire box came up very well. That is all original parts.
The paint is VHT paint, the clear coat is as well. It was a fiddly job getting the 6 screws, 6 washers and 6 nuts in. But coffee and more coffee was the answer.
Post First hot run.
We are water tight, steam tight and it runs very well.
Piston needs a bit more adjustments, but I will steam it a few more times.
Rear end view.
Level plug and whistle in place. The hunt is on for a correct whistle, should be a side lever one.
Back rollers cleaned and polished.
Scuttle added and a correct "Meths." burner tray fitted.
Just the view from the top. The rear of the boiler has shed some paint. Just visible by the whistle. But they all did that.
Safety/filler plug is re-built with new rings and sealing washers.
The whistle and level plug arrive with seals and washers.
I think the two copper pipes may have some hard water despotise in them, that will wait.
A long way from how it arrived.
It now has a new lease of life.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,573
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
I made some more gears today as I'm being indecisive about gear ratios. I made a couple of 75 tooth acetal ones and some 25 tooth steel ones (I really hate filing keyways in steel gears). While I was at it, I remade one of the 80 tooth ones that had a couple of iffy teeth; I didn't have enough acetal left to remake both of them. I made the new pinion with the smaller hole have a flange with a grub screw hole for fitting; I'll remake the 20 tooth version if I decide to use it. This gives me three different options for gear ratios, all using the same centre distances (two different options if I don't use the remaining 80 tooth one with a couple of iffy teeth or the pinion that needs a flange).
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,573
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
That Orkney one is gorgeous.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,809
- Location
- Cumbria
I'm always amazed at how you take something that looks crappy, and turn it into something desirable. And it never seems to take you all that long, either... I assume you're retired, to be able to put those sorts of hours in?
