Fraserb
Member
- Messages
- 1,561
- Location
- Scottish Borders
Most people wait until its cold the next day to clean the Ash out.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Most people wait until its cold the next day to clean the Ash out.
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,477
- Location
- New Zealand
Some steampunk detailing 
I needed to make some cowl vents for the model boat Im building, but why do things that seem simple end up being complicated to make. just for scale the top of the vent is 6mm diameter.
so first I ended up making a form tool to form the radius on the end of the 6mm styrene rod. this was a piece of rusty 3mm gauge plate so I drilled and reamed a 6mm hole in it, and stoned the top face to give a nice sharp cutting edge....ohh and because it was being used on styrene, I didnt harden it, it was just used in its annealed state.
then cut 10mm off the end of the rod, turned it round in the chuck and drilled it 4mm to remove most of the inside material
the round end then had a flat bottomed 4mm hole milled in it so a 4mm tube could be glued into it.
the "bowl" top of the vent was then parted to length, and the parting tool is 0.6mm wide.
and then the inside of the top of the vent was created using a 5mm ball nosed milling cutter to create the curved interior, but how do you hold it? mill a recess piece of wood using a 6mm ball nosed cutter and mill a 4mm wide slot for the tube to sit in. and then hold it with tool makers clamp to keep your fingers out of the way.
and a completed vent next to a half done one
so first I ended up making a form tool to form the radius on the end of the 6mm styrene rod. this was a piece of rusty 3mm gauge plate so I drilled and reamed a 6mm hole in it, and stoned the top face to give a nice sharp cutting edge....ohh and because it was being used on styrene, I didnt harden it, it was just used in its annealed state.
then cut 10mm off the end of the rod, turned it round in the chuck and drilled it 4mm to remove most of the inside material
the round end then had a flat bottomed 4mm hole milled in it so a 4mm tube could be glued into it.
the "bowl" top of the vent was then parted to length, and the parting tool is 0.6mm wide.
and then the inside of the top of the vent was created using a 5mm ball nosed milling cutter to create the curved interior, but how do you hold it? mill a recess piece of wood using a 6mm ball nosed cutter and mill a 4mm wide slot for the tube to sit in. and then hold it with tool makers clamp to keep your fingers out of the way.
and a completed vent next to a half done one
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,544
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
Not far from home there are some roads with U turns and no asphalt .
I was driving there to take a friend to his girlfriend house .
Couldn't resist to the handbrake
Little bit of drifting , it's been funny.
I'll have to replace clutch and shocks soon so once done I can't do it anymore so why not .
Also disassembled a Milwaukee Fuel M18 CHX today.
It will need maintenance kit, a new selector lever and the gear housing.
Lever failed after the housing failed .
So no hammer function
I was driving there to take a friend to his girlfriend house .
Couldn't resist to the handbrake
Little bit of drifting , it's been funny.
I'll have to replace clutch and shocks soon so once done I can't do it anymore so why not .
Also disassembled a Milwaukee Fuel M18 CHX today.
It will need maintenance kit, a new selector lever and the gear housing.
Lever failed after the housing failed .
So no hammer function
Ali
Member
- Messages
- 1,927
- Location
- Cheshire
A lock nut for the blade guide on a little bandsaw I’ve been servicing
Hate knurling, I’ve got all the bits but I’ve never found time to make the proper tool that clamps from above and below instead of stressing the headstock bearings. Couldn’t find the right pattern either.
Hate knurling, I’ve got all the bits but I’ve never found time to make the proper tool that clamps from above and below instead of stressing the headstock bearings. Couldn’t find the right pattern either.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,788
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
This evening I decided to make an aluminium box for the top of the tailstock. I had previously made a stainless one but the bits and pieces placed in it rattled and made a racket so I thought aluminium would be better.
I also put some grooves in the chuck face which will make setting the jaws easier due to the style of chuck, a Forkardt with sliding jaws.
I also put some grooves in the chuck face which will make setting the jaws easier due to the style of chuck, a Forkardt with sliding jaws.
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,477
- Location
- New Zealand
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,900
- Location
- Kent, UK
Nice knob mate....
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
Had a busy day yesterday, finishing off project started last week end.
This little Anvil vice was an education to me. Eg check and read description before parting with funds.
The square lower bar was bent, but some heat and a tap or two had it straight.
Fresh from the Citric acid bath. Temptation was to dry it with a hot air gun and polish the black oxide with wax and be done.
But Russian coffee was made and normality returned.
So.
Filler primer to fill the casting blemish and life dings.
The expense of a of cut of oak and brass screws.
Then Gold leaf.
Why not.
I got some old rusty tools the other day.
The spanners are due to be used in another project, but I liked one chisel, so it was cleaned up for me to use. But in a different way to what some may think.
Again way to much coffee, lack of sleep plus I was board.
Some un known hard work, whittled down by hand tools. 5am on a Saturday morning is not the time for making noise.
The design is copied from a tool I saw in the Steam Museum in Swindon.
A nice stone dressing tool.
Why?
Because. is the best I can come up with.
This little Anvil vice was an education to me. Eg check and read description before parting with funds.
The square lower bar was bent, but some heat and a tap or two had it straight.
Fresh from the Citric acid bath. Temptation was to dry it with a hot air gun and polish the black oxide with wax and be done.
But Russian coffee was made and normality returned.
So.
Filler primer to fill the casting blemish and life dings.
The expense of a of cut of oak and brass screws.
Then Gold leaf.
Why not.
I got some old rusty tools the other day.
The spanners are due to be used in another project, but I liked one chisel, so it was cleaned up for me to use. But in a different way to what some may think.
Again way to much coffee, lack of sleep plus I was board.
Some un known hard work, whittled down by hand tools. 5am on a Saturday morning is not the time for making noise.
The design is copied from a tool I saw in the Steam Museum in Swindon.
A nice stone dressing tool.
Why?
Because. is the best I can come up with.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
The stone dressing tool was made as other jobs were in the stage of being unable to work on them.
This was in a bad way. I knew it was bad, but I saw as a challenge.
I had to repair the top joint first, I posted about using a 28oz soldering iron the othe day.
Strong caustic soda was used to remove the hammer paint. Took a week soaking to remove the may layers of paint.
This image is one of those that doesn't show the real extent of the damage from rust.
That is the bottom of the fuel tank, you can just make out the double wall of the sides. You can't see the double bottom. As it went away.
Even the filler cap rusted away, So I made one out of oak.
Yes I up-cycled it.
It was so badly rusted it was that or scrap it.
But I did find a replacement brass filler cap.
This Davey lamp was found and was almost complete.
Yes it is bent.
In bits.
The lower part is square, but the whole of the chimney is bent.
The wick is missing, but we had a spare from the Storm lantern.
Washed, by hand and dried on a hot plate.
This was in a bad way. I knew it was bad, but I saw as a challenge.
I had to repair the top joint first, I posted about using a 28oz soldering iron the othe day.
Strong caustic soda was used to remove the hammer paint. Took a week soaking to remove the may layers of paint.
This image is one of those that doesn't show the real extent of the damage from rust.
That is the bottom of the fuel tank, you can just make out the double wall of the sides. You can't see the double bottom. As it went away.
Even the filler cap rusted away, So I made one out of oak.
Yes I up-cycled it.
It was so badly rusted it was that or scrap it.
But I did find a replacement brass filler cap.
This Davey lamp was found and was almost complete.
Yes it is bent.
In bits.
The lower part is square, but the whole of the chimney is bent.
The wick is missing, but we had a spare from the Storm lantern.
Washed, by hand and dried on a hot plate.
Last edited:
What is it, and are you replacing the hoses because of the paint?
Woody.v8
Blue gluer
- Messages
- 4,220
- Location
- staffs
It's a tilt slide truck body, The hoses are being replaced because they are old and perished and the fittings are crusty, I want it as reliable as possible so im going though it bit by bit.
mtt.tr
Member
- Messages
- 8,452
- Location
- Essex/Suffolk border
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,809
- Location
- Cumbria
Pretty much, yeah
I'm quite fortunate because I have one decent size business customer that puts stuff my way, nice size jobs that I can handle within reasonable timescales and material free-issue.The other customers I have are small and easily handled, plus I work for the farm in there too.
I'm working part flexi time at work to be able to handle it all - 40 hour full-time employment and 20-30 hours side gig, per week. Busy enough.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,338
- Location
- Going Away.
This wick was slavaged from the storm lantern.
It is not perfect, but it works well enough.
This is how it was when it was dragged from the storm lantern.
To clean it I placed it in a coffee jaw with washing soda, hot water. Using a paddle made from scrap in a drill I made a mini washing machine.
What ever was on the glass was not dust. Nothing in the cleaning cupboard was getting close to removing it.
I even tried lime scale remover. It helped.
So it was warm vinegar, baking powder and news paper. Again old methods.
Polishing with newspaper.
It is not perfect, but it works well enough.
This is how it was when it was dragged from the storm lantern.
To clean it I placed it in a coffee jaw with washing soda, hot water. Using a paddle made from scrap in a drill I made a mini washing machine.
What ever was on the glass was not dust. Nothing in the cleaning cupboard was getting close to removing it.
I even tried lime scale remover. It helped.
So it was warm vinegar, baking powder and news paper. Again old methods.
Polishing with newspaper.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
- Messages
- 3,676
- Location
- North Kent, UK
I used to do that with an 18” length of gas pipe, a Britool pry bar, and a pair of mole grips.
Your solution is far more refined than my quick bodge redneck version!
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
- Messages
- 3,629
- Location
- North Lincs
I had a go at making Roman numerals for my clock today. I will paint them but I need to add fixings on the back first.
I cut the 3/16" rod after working out the sizes on paper. I am quite pleased but I know they are not brilliant
Mug for scale, they scale nicely with the clock. I will show the whole thing once it is complete.
I cut the 3/16" rod after working out the sizes on paper. I am quite pleased but I know they are not brilliant
Mug for scale, they scale nicely with the clock. I will show the whole thing once it is complete.
