Brad93
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- 19,425
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- Essex, United Kingdom
4t is the best
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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- 7,892
- Location
- Cumbria
I can't bring myself to use 4T for short stitches... something to do with the way I hold a mig gun, as i move my finger slips off the trigger and I sometimes can't stop it in time
Just lack of practice. I use 4T for 6"+ seams but they're few and far between.I also like the 2T setting for corners, same as the TIG set
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,982
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
4T for me with the EWM. It allows you to keep the trigger pulled until you decide enough heat is in with the hot start, release for the rest of the weld then pull and hold until crater filled then release. Also when doing the main weld you can tap and it will drop to a lower current, when it is getting too cold you tap and back to main. I would imagine the lorch has the same features.
Brad93
Member
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- 19,425
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
But the 4t allows you to hold the hot start and the crater fill for as long as neededI can't bring myself to use 4T for short stitches... something to do with the way I hold a mig gun, as i move my finger slips off the trigger and I sometimes can't stop it in time
I also like the 2T setting for corners, same as the TIG set
Brad93
Member
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- 19,425
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Jinx was too slow
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,892
- Location
- Cumbria
pressbrake1
Member
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- 5,776
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- Essex
Brad93
Member
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- 19,425
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
That’s looking mint. I think it said 39kg on the paper work.
Brad93
Member
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- 19,425
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Dough mixer
Or simply an uneven, oscillating load over time . . . fatigue just as good as exceeding maximum load.
Brad93
Member
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- 19,425
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
That’s what it was.
Misalignment too - due to crap design and trying to mount three bearings on a shaft in close proximity, one of our machines bust a 5" shaft in a similar fashion.
I've had to warn my boss(es) about a conveyor they've bought from Holland that I think will suffer from the same problem on all three driven shafts - they just didn't see it as a potential problem when deciding on it.
Brad93
Member
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- 19,425
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- Essex, United Kingdom
This should only have two bearings this shaft as far as I know
Olderisbetter
Member
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- 3,961
- Location
- Wolverhampton
I did an alteration of the gates at the shop to match the ones next door which are curved at the top, a bit of wall paper to get the basic shape then used some chipboard as a template then bent the rail till it fitted nicely, the rail tops finish the job and stop urchins climbing over. 
Blake's 7
Member
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- 205
- Location
- Ireland
Really nice work there with the gates, @Olderisbetter.
Blake's 7
Member
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- 205
- Location
- Ireland
About a year ago I picked up this piece of 12" diameter stainless steel pipe from my local scrap yard as I knew I'd have a use for it when the time came and until recently it's been lying under my office desk.
About a week or so ago I used the paper from a credit card terminal to mark a 4" high line around the pipe's circumference and then used an angle grinder to cut the excess off.
After that was done I used some of my school days geometry to cut it into four equal parts and then used the four sections in a 4" high mould for concrete as shown below.
The green spay bottle contains a mixture of diesel and a small bit of engine oil to act as a release agent when the concrete has set. I give the timber a light spray and then use a brush to work it in.
After a few days I take the clamps, the timber blocks and the steel sections out of the frame and I'm left with the pieces below. I already have twelve of them made and I cast four more today. When
my blocklayer returns he will use them give nice consistent rounded corners to some of the blockwork in the chimney breast and afterwards it will be plastered in lime mortar.
The 4" thickness of the mould and the steel sections matches the thickness of a concrete block.
About a week or so ago I used the paper from a credit card terminal to mark a 4" high line around the pipe's circumference and then used an angle grinder to cut the excess off.
After that was done I used some of my school days geometry to cut it into four equal parts and then used the four sections in a 4" high mould for concrete as shown below.
The green spay bottle contains a mixture of diesel and a small bit of engine oil to act as a release agent when the concrete has set. I give the timber a light spray and then use a brush to work it in.
After a few days I take the clamps, the timber blocks and the steel sections out of the frame and I'm left with the pieces below. I already have twelve of them made and I cast four more today. When
my blocklayer returns he will use them give nice consistent rounded corners to some of the blockwork in the chimney breast and afterwards it will be plastered in lime mortar.
The 4" thickness of the mould and the steel sections matches the thickness of a concrete block.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- 7,329
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Can you explain or point me to a tube clip please?
Kram
Member
- Messages
- 8,371
- Location
- Sussex
Sorted new tools holders, new spout on oiler bent 90 degrees, much better for lathe. Put a hole in handle and hung on wall.
Tapered delrin headlight mount pin. Headlight spacers, and a short video on how I turn brass for nice swarf.
Last clocked my er40 collet chuck after the brazing. The flange and body both measure the same runout within 0.004mm on dial gauge. Good the heat did not distort or move the shrink fit on mounting flange. Turned the excess silver solder from the face and the finish it can take is amazing. Cleaned up threads. Tomorrow I'll set up compound and recut the taper as theres a large blob of silver in there.
