Hood
I am obsessed.
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aye, £89 for an 8m one. New motor will likely be more
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123hotchef
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8M fook where u welding! lol what motor was u using for the pump then?aye, £89 for an 8m one. New motor will likely be more
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
All my tig torches (WP20 x 2, WP18 and WP9) I need the reach if I am working on a boat as easier than pulling the welder/gas about with me.
It is a Procon pump, not sure what the motor make is but it was the one I got with the pump.
daleyd
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Not that I am any kind of expert on these sort of things but I’d be looking at fitting some sort of flow/pressure switch to interlock your welder or at least give some warning (I’m sure you’ve already thought of that, I’m just thinking out loud here...)
123hotchef
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good pumps my Tweco has a procon pump
I doubt you'd get a switch as such.
I'd take something like this - 1Pc Water Flow Sensor Switch G1/2" Copper Hall Effect Liquid Switch Flowmeter Meter 1-30L/min for Water Heaters Water Flow Measurement Device: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
and have the pulse reset a timer, so if the timer times out due to not getting reset, it triggers an alarm.
Something like this might work -
RS PRO SPDT Timer Relay, OFF Delay, 24 V ac/dc, 240 V ac 0.3 s → 30 h, DIN Rail Mount | RS Components (rs-online.com)
Although the datasheet isn't very detailed, and doesn't say if the timer gets reset after being triggered, or how long the reset pulse has to be.
Alternative, would be either a basic timer reset circuit, or for simplicity, throw an Arduino at it (can get UNO clones for less than a fiver, and it would only take a couple lines of code).
henry Kadzielski
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Good afternoon gents my two cents worth. have been doing some seat frames
16 already collected, this 16 ready for collection and the remaining 14 were completed the next day. Very happy to see the back end of this job, there was some effort on my part to complete also time sensitive. 'Donna has done the rolling, Debbi has done the drilling, Carol did the cutting and Francis did the welding. The punt that I had built recently is to return in the new week of additions so need the space. Also had a go at these colapsable BBQ's, got two cut out of 3mm steel, not bent yet and they look OK. The only problem is that I think that 3mm is too thin. The grill section has bent 'deflected' during the cutting process, otherwise they look OK for a test sample
16 already collected, this 16 ready for collection and the remaining 14 were completed the next day. Very happy to see the back end of this job, there was some effort on my part to complete also time sensitive. 'Donna has done the rolling, Debbi has done the drilling, Carol did the cutting and Francis did the welding. The punt that I had built recently is to return in the new week of additions so need the space. Also had a go at these colapsable BBQ's, got two cut out of 3mm steel, not bent yet and they look OK. The only problem is that I think that 3mm is too thin. The grill section has bent 'deflected' during the cutting process, otherwise they look OK for a test sample
Agroshield
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You could do it with a pressure switch and relying on a fixed orifice so you get pressure to trigger the switch, but that has two problems.
The big one being it's not failsafe. If the flows gets blocked, you'll still have pressure. The other is any added restriction will add to heating the water.
By measuring the actual water flow, pressure doesn't matter, and you know there is water flowing.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
I bought a few switches when I was first making the cooler but none worked as I hoped. This one (see pic) was one of them but it is NO and as I was going to have a buzzer for an alarm it wasn't really suitable without inversion and I was trying to keep things as simple as possible. I had thought about wiring it into the torch switch so that if no flow then no spark but that was again just adding complexity that I didn't want. I did get some reed switches that were NC but can't recall why that didn't work.
Finding something suitable was a problem, well for a decent price anyway, I had found some that were expensive. I think the bird scarer would be a bad idea though, got enough of a fright with the piped popping and sparking
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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Not today, but I got this finished last weekend. After chatting with @Pete. this morning, I decided to post up some pics!
It’s a 4 bolt compound slide clamp for the 920 mini lathe. The standard 2 bolt affair is said to rock somewhat, although I can’t say that I’ve ever noticed it on mine. Anyhow, it’s supposed to be a very worthwhile modification, so I thought I’d give it a go.
I screwed up a little at the end, as I didn’t notice that the bandsaw bow was off square slightly, so after it was squared up in the mill, the graduated swivel is a little more exposed that originally expected, but it won’t affect the way if functions at all.
This is the 2 bolt original clamp:
And this is the new one:
It's made from a bit of plain 15mm mild steel, so I was quite pleased with the finish I got. It was the first time I'd 'properly' used the mill so it was all a bit of trial and error and guesswork with regards to feed speed and tool speed, and I also discovered that a higher spindle speed on the lathe gave a better surface finish, so all in all I learnt quite a bit on this job! Happy days!
Next up I need to make a couple of new T bolts for it, as I'm just using ground down M6 screws at the moment, and I think they need a little more surface area to prevent the heads digging in to the T slots.
Also judging by the photos it looks to be sitting a little ****** on the cross slide, so I'm hoping that it will square up when I get it screwed down properly.
It’s a 4 bolt compound slide clamp for the 920 mini lathe. The standard 2 bolt affair is said to rock somewhat, although I can’t say that I’ve ever noticed it on mine. Anyhow, it’s supposed to be a very worthwhile modification, so I thought I’d give it a go.
I screwed up a little at the end, as I didn’t notice that the bandsaw bow was off square slightly, so after it was squared up in the mill, the graduated swivel is a little more exposed that originally expected, but it won’t affect the way if functions at all.
This is the 2 bolt original clamp:
And this is the new one:
It's made from a bit of plain 15mm mild steel, so I was quite pleased with the finish I got. It was the first time I'd 'properly' used the mill so it was all a bit of trial and error and guesswork with regards to feed speed and tool speed, and I also discovered that a higher spindle speed on the lathe gave a better surface finish, so all in all I learnt quite a bit on this job! Happy days!
Next up I need to make a couple of new T bolts for it, as I'm just using ground down M6 screws at the moment, and I think they need a little more surface area to prevent the heads digging in to the T slots.
Also judging by the photos it looks to be sitting a little ****** on the cross slide, so I'm hoping that it will square up when I get it screwed down properly.
A water boost pump flow switch could work.
Either fitted to the trigger lines or to a warning light / buzzer.
HT-120 G1/2 "-1/2" 1.5A Hot And Cold Water Circulation Pump Booster Flow Switch | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HT-120 G1/2 "-1/2" 1.5A Hot And Cold Water Circulation Pump Booster Flow Switch at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
Kram
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Looks good, another item on my list to be done. I tidied the shed last night and found the peice of plate I will use for it. Im not going to have the exposed graduations as mine are not all that accurate Id rather have the extra thickness there.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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There’s a guy called Steve Bedair (recently departed I hear ) who has a design for this modification on his website, and he has filed a little ‘tunnel’ which allows him to retain the extra material, and still see the graduations.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
The trouble with a lot of these flow switches is they need a fair flow to operate. For example that one in your link needs 6-7lpm and I don't think that much goes to the torch.A water boost pump flow switch could work.
Either fitted to the trigger lines or to a warning light / buzzer.
HT-120 G1/2 "-1/2" 1.5A Hot And Cold Water Circulation Pump Booster Flow Switch | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for HT-120 G1/2 "-1/2" 1.5A Hot And Cold Water Circulation Pump Booster Flow Switch at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!www.ebay.co.uk
It does have a fan but it is not integral to the motor, just a 240v fan fitted to the cooler.
