Nick DV
"That's the only name they ever gave me."
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Ahh, I see - I think!
- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Brad93
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Did you use dowel pins?I quite enjoyed making this, shame it didn't work! 38mm hex, two 5mm holes for pins to dismantle an inner steering rack tie rod for re-shimming the play. A washer and nut hold it in place, another special tool should be used to hold the body but as it has three 1/4" slots I held it lightly in the lathe 3 jaw. It flexed my shiny new Snap On 24" breaker bar then sheared the pins.
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Wallace
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No, I only had 6mm & 1/4" so I used the tang off an old 5mm drill bit hence they sheared. I sacrificed a 5mm Dormer drill bit this morning and it was successful. They will be back on the car this afternoon.
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What is the resin Andy?
Memmeddu
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Got a 300 euros job I'll start tomorrow afternoon ,it will probably take 3 days which 2 are work and 1 just understand the situation .
Removed a broker stud from a metabo sander (wurth version)
Started disassembly a Milwaukee PLH32QEX which is a nightmare to work on .
I'll have to completely disassembly it
Removed a broker stud from a metabo sander (wurth version)
Started disassembly a Milwaukee PLH32QEX which is a nightmare to work on .
I'll have to completely disassembly it
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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Its just some generic clear epoxy resin. Dr Crafty or similar. The colour is blue mica powder.
I'm making a small "river" table for the brewery out of bits of scrap wood and off cuts.
This is more of a canal than a river
First pour is quite strongly tinted. This is for the base of the river and to fill the cracks in the timber.
The second pour will be very lightly tinted so you can see the car tyres, rusty wheels, oil drums and building waste tipped into the river. A bit of humorous social commentary
Cheers
Andy
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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Thing part 6.
Probably obvious but it's knife drawer insert for the new kitchen. The wife doesn't like knife blocks on the kitchen tops or magnetic strips on the wall so this is my take on it.
New knives included, they are generic Chinese knives with Japanese steel VG10 core wrapped in "Damascus" steel. I didn't think they would be very good for the money but they exceeded my expectations.
The space on the left is for some existing knives the wife and kids use. Some have damaged handles from being put in the dishwasher by the in laws so I may replace them with similar resin/burr handles to the new ones.
I'll fit it in the kitchen drawer later today.
Cheers
Andy
Probably obvious but it's knife drawer insert for the new kitchen. The wife doesn't like knife blocks on the kitchen tops or magnetic strips on the wall so this is my take on it.
New knives included, they are generic Chinese knives with Japanese steel VG10 core wrapped in "Damascus" steel. I didn't think they would be very good for the money but they exceeded my expectations.
The space on the left is for some existing knives the wife and kids use. Some have damaged handles from being put in the dishwasher by the in laws so I may replace them with similar resin/burr handles to the new ones.
I'll fit it in the kitchen drawer later today.
Cheers
Andy
Nick DV
"That's the only name they ever gave me."
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Really nice work Andy
mtt.tr
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Apprenticed as a traditional cabinet maker, i dont want to like the resin but those knives and block are something else.
good art is good art
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Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I agree, always felt coloured resin was a bit too "Pinterest" for my liking but I can't deny that is very pretty.
Is there anything to top the knives on the top row sliding out when the drawer is opened with too much haste?
brewdexta
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I agree, always felt coloured resin was a bit too "Pinterest" for my liking but I can't deny that is very pretty.
Is there anything to top the knives on the top row sliding out when the drawer is opened with too much haste?
The blade sits below the level of the handle in the slot so it stops it sliding out. I guess some types of blade that are flush with the handle could slide back but the knives are quite snug so I don't think it would be an issue unless you were a really clumsy. A small stop behind the handle would make sure, maybe a bead of oak across the width.
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Did you make al the knives from scratch as well Andy?. I wish I had the skill to do all of that. Absolutely incredible.
brewdexta
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I wish! No, the knives came up on faceache just before Christmas, I tentatively put them in the basket, then left them there as I thought they were a tad too expensive for a tight Yorkshireman. But I was having a problem with a final pressie for the wife, so when they sent me a message with an extra 20% off I thought sod it.
These particular ones are branded "Razar" but I have seen them branded about 8 different ways, hence why I called them generic Chinese. I think with Christmas discount, extra discount and discount for the hell of it they were about 230 quid for a set of 8. You can pay that or more for one "proper" Damascus steel Japanese chef's knife, probably made in the same factory.
I will try and re-handle some of the other knives we like though, maybe not identically but similar style.
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Aww thanks for that. I may end up with a setI wish! No, the knives came up on faceache just before Christmas, I tentatively put them in the basket, then left them there as I thought they were a tad too expensive for a tight Yorkshireman. But I was having a problem with a final pressie for the wife, so when they sent me a message with an extra 20% off I thought sod it.
These particular ones are branded "Razar" but I have seen them branded about 8 different ways, hence why I called them generic Chinese. I think with Christmas discount, extra discount and discount for the hell of it they were about 230 quid for a set of 8. You can pay that or more for one "proper" Damascus steel Japanese chef's knife, probably made in the same factory.
I will try and re-handle some of the other knives we like though, maybe not identically but similar style.
. I love them and the whole resin things. Looks great!
brewdexta
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I was going to cut a square out of the back of the knife insert for a tin of these, the knives are much sharper than the outgoing ones, the old ones were some horrible stainless that didn't take a good edge no matter how you sharpened them. I may still do it if the tin is small enough.
Cheers
Andy
Cheers
Andy
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How thick can your table cut?
Dr.Al
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Made myself an oak (ridiculous I know, but it's what I've got) back-to-front overdesigned bench hook:
The right-hand end is use with backless Japanese (pull) saws - either in the slot, which is the width of my Japanese saw's kerf or on the end (which has magnets glued into it to keep the saw running true):
The other end also has magnets set into it but has a slightly lower top: this can be used (with the jig the other way round) with a western saw. The relieved end is to account for the back of the western tenon saw.
The T-track in the top allows me to use a stop if I want to cut multiple pieces to the same length. Probably a bit pointless; I installed the T-track as an easy way to hang it underneath my bench so it's immediately available and figured while I was at it I'd make a stop.
As with my shooting board, the "cleat/hook" on the bottom isn't actually a cleat, it's four 20 mm dowels:
Three of them go in the jaws of the vice under normal use (the vice doesn't have to be tightened) so the moving jaw of the vice counters the pulling action of the saw. Using dowels means I can put it in a different place (or turn through 90°) if I want by putting the dowels into the dog holes on the bench.
The right-hand end is use with backless Japanese (pull) saws - either in the slot, which is the width of my Japanese saw's kerf or on the end (which has magnets glued into it to keep the saw running true):
The other end also has magnets set into it but has a slightly lower top: this can be used (with the jig the other way round) with a western saw. The relieved end is to account for the back of the western tenon saw.
The T-track in the top allows me to use a stop if I want to cut multiple pieces to the same length. Probably a bit pointless; I installed the T-track as an easy way to hang it underneath my bench so it's immediately available and figured while I was at it I'd make a stop.
As with my shooting board, the "cleat/hook" on the bottom isn't actually a cleat, it's four 20 mm dowels:
Three of them go in the jaws of the vice under normal use (the vice doesn't have to be tightened) so the moving jaw of the vice counters the pulling action of the saw. Using dowels means I can put it in a different place (or turn through 90°) if I want by putting the dowels into the dog holes on the bench.
