Brad93
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Oh I see. Useful tool
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
If you have decent timing you can wind the cross feed manually as you cut the thread. Much easier if you have a large wheel on the cross slide like I added to mine.
Brad93
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My timing is terrible.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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- NE London - UK
Dr.Al
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- Gloucestershire, UK
A day or two ago I acquired a bench-top ratchet clamp from Axminster:
I already had some of the ratchet versions of F-clamps in the range and thought this looked quite good but I'd been putting it off as the details on the website said that it was suitable for benches up to 30 mm thick (and mine is about 53 mm thick).
Having had a look at the photos on the website I realised that the threaded bit is attached to the sliding bar with a couple of (M5) cap screws, so I decided to take a punt and get one. Conveniently, I had a length of 25.4 mm (1") 303 in stock, so today I made this:
Another view:
and here it is fitted (the wrong way round - I only realised after taking the photo but couldn't be bothered to take another one):
In practice, it doesn't tend to actually need to be clamped down to the bench (so the shorter screwed bit would be fine), but if I want to have a bit more clamping force, then I can fix it in place now.
I really didn't enjoy milling that 6.5 mm wide, 19 mm deep, 40 mm long slot in stainless steel, but the rest was quite fun. I'd never cut a thread as coarse as that (2.5 mm pitch).
I already had some of the ratchet versions of F-clamps in the range and thought this looked quite good but I'd been putting it off as the details on the website said that it was suitable for benches up to 30 mm thick (and mine is about 53 mm thick).
Having had a look at the photos on the website I realised that the threaded bit is attached to the sliding bar with a couple of (M5) cap screws, so I decided to take a punt and get one. Conveniently, I had a length of 25.4 mm (1") 303 in stock, so today I made this:
Another view:
and here it is fitted (the wrong way round - I only realised after taking the photo but couldn't be bothered to take another one):
In practice, it doesn't tend to actually need to be clamped down to the bench (so the shorter screwed bit would be fine), but if I want to have a bit more clamping force, then I can fix it in place now.
I really didn't enjoy milling that 6.5 mm wide, 19 mm deep, 40 mm long slot in stainless steel, but the rest was quite fun. I'd never cut a thread as coarse as that (2.5 mm pitch).
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Last few days has been a case of getting used to working with 10% of my digits not fully working.
I have a bench planer, but it sat under the bench for a long time and was in need of some attention.
So the bed was removed and cleaned, the adjusters had a die ran down them.
The motor was checked.
The worse was some pitting and the chrome lifting on the bed.
That was cleaned up, then a old memory surfaced that running wood through a machine would help shift the last bits of rust.
So I did.
I also used the wood I planed to make something.
The Planer.
The two type of Oak planed and roughly assembled.
Glued and traditional wood glue and saw dust used as a filler.
One bit of interest, RHS you can see a tray with a white liquid.
That's my de-rusting fluids.
citric acid, warm water and flour.
Finished.
I have a bench planer, but it sat under the bench for a long time and was in need of some attention.
So the bed was removed and cleaned, the adjusters had a die ran down them.
The motor was checked.
The worse was some pitting and the chrome lifting on the bed.
That was cleaned up, then a old memory surfaced that running wood through a machine would help shift the last bits of rust.
So I did.
I also used the wood I planed to make something.
The Planer.
The two type of Oak planed and roughly assembled.
Glued and traditional wood glue and saw dust used as a filler.
One bit of interest, RHS you can see a tray with a white liquid.
That's my de-rusting fluids.
citric acid, warm water and flour.
Finished.
Dr.Al
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- 2,567
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- Gloucestershire, UK
This morning I finished making 16 little dog-hole fillers:
I've put quite a few 20 mm dog holes in my bench. Those where the bottom of the bench is accessible (where there isn't a drawer, a vice or a chest of drawers) are through-holes; the others are blind. Some of the through holes are over the bin and I was a bit worried about small things falling into the holes and landing in the bin or rolling across the floor somewhere inaccessible.
I had a couple of (skip-retrieved) bars of 25.4 mm (1") 303 bar, so I started turning that into dog hole fillers. They're 20 mm diameter for 20 mm length, then taper out at 45° to 21.6 mm. They have an M8 hole tapped all the way through. I made 16 simply because that's how many I could make before running out of 303 in the right size.
The grub screws go in the bottom of the tapped hole just in case anything really small falls through the tapped hole:
The M8 hole is mainly there to make them easy to remove, although potentially I could use them to hold stuff down to the bench. There's nothing holding them in place, but a screw could maintain the alignment with the dog holes (in X and Y) for planing or similar and if I wanted to constrain something in Z then (for the through dog-holes) I could use a cap screw and penny washer from underneath the bench to hold the dog in place.
I got the idea from Axminster's website: they list them as "Anchor Dogs" for holding stuff down to your bench. To buy this many from Axminster would have cost me £88 so I'm much happier having made them from bits of bar that came out of the skip!
Here they are in place on my bench:
I've put quite a few 20 mm dog holes in my bench. Those where the bottom of the bench is accessible (where there isn't a drawer, a vice or a chest of drawers) are through-holes; the others are blind. Some of the through holes are over the bin and I was a bit worried about small things falling into the holes and landing in the bin or rolling across the floor somewhere inaccessible.
I had a couple of (skip-retrieved) bars of 25.4 mm (1") 303 bar, so I started turning that into dog hole fillers. They're 20 mm diameter for 20 mm length, then taper out at 45° to 21.6 mm. They have an M8 hole tapped all the way through. I made 16 simply because that's how many I could make before running out of 303 in the right size.
The grub screws go in the bottom of the tapped hole just in case anything really small falls through the tapped hole:
The M8 hole is mainly there to make them easy to remove, although potentially I could use them to hold stuff down to the bench. There's nothing holding them in place, but a screw could maintain the alignment with the dog holes (in X and Y) for planing or similar and if I wanted to constrain something in Z then (for the through dog-holes) I could use a cap screw and penny washer from underneath the bench to hold the dog in place.
I got the idea from Axminster's website: they list them as "Anchor Dogs" for holding stuff down to your bench. To buy this many from Axminster would have cost me £88 so I'm much happier having made them from bits of bar that came out of the skip!
Here they are in place on my bench:
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Dr.Al
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I did a bit of playing with the home-made router table today. I'd previously set it up so that the main way of using it was with the fence that came with the router (shown in an earlier post here).
I wanted to switch to using the extrusion as the main fence (as shown in the fourth photo in the previous post) but there were two problems with that:
Et voila:
Those two little bits of extrusion were literally the only bits I had left and they nearly went to the tip with my swarf bin a few weeks ago.
Close-up of one of them:
The stainless screw gets tightened down to the beam underneath and then the cap screw that you can see the side of at the top of the picture moves the fence in and out. When it's in the right position, the cap screw at the bottom of the picture locks the fence in place.
A couple of photos of the new bits in case it's not clear how it works:
From the end with the stainless locking screw, showing the drop-in T-nut at the top:
From the end with the screw that moves the fence:
I also added a couple of plywood pieces to the fence so it's a lot taller (fixing #2 above), but it was chucking it down so I had the garage door shut at that point. As a result it was a little bit dark and the photos came out blurry.
I wanted to switch to using the extrusion as the main fence (as shown in the fourth photo in the previous post) but there were two problems with that:
- No fine adjustment facility for getting the fence in the right place
- It's quite low (although higher than the fence that came with the router)
Et voila:
Those two little bits of extrusion were literally the only bits I had left and they nearly went to the tip with my swarf bin a few weeks ago.
Close-up of one of them:
The stainless screw gets tightened down to the beam underneath and then the cap screw that you can see the side of at the top of the picture moves the fence in and out. When it's in the right position, the cap screw at the bottom of the picture locks the fence in place.
A couple of photos of the new bits in case it's not clear how it works:
From the end with the stainless locking screw, showing the drop-in T-nut at the top:
From the end with the screw that moves the fence:
I also added a couple of plywood pieces to the fence so it's a lot taller (fixing #2 above), but it was chucking it down so I had the garage door shut at that point. As a result it was a little bit dark and the photos came out blurry.
Ashley Burton
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Built a box out of 3mm steel, Slit the bends & folded. Then welded up all the bended edges
Olderisbetter
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Today i had to make a emergency cover using net over my pond after a stalk fishnapped a 10" koi
mtt.tr
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not so much made as repaired after breaking
Dad asked me if i could lend him my ultasonic cleaner, i was doing bits anyway so said i would do his carb.
The float needed coming out pin pretty much dropped out until the last 1/4" well i pulled slighty too hard broke the lug off, if anyone else has done this they will know its pretty easy to do that.
Down to the workshop needed to load the van anyway, made a lug followed by some filling
I have done this in the past pre AC tig normally lead to boring out carb and putting in a post
Also had a quick go at repairing some brimabright a friend needs a stretched bit cut and welded, do able for where it is but its not nice stuff
Dad asked me if i could lend him my ultasonic cleaner, i was doing bits anyway so said i would do his carb.
The float needed coming out pin pretty much dropped out until the last 1/4" well i pulled slighty too hard broke the lug off, if anyone else has done this they will know its pretty easy to do that.
Down to the workshop needed to load the van anyway, made a lug followed by some filling
I have done this in the past pre AC tig normally lead to boring out carb and putting in a post
Also had a quick go at repairing some brimabright a friend needs a stretched bit cut and welded, do able for where it is but its not nice stuff
Last edited:
Dr.Al
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- Gloucestershire, UK
Today I found another length of 303 that I had been wondering where it was (it was buried under some mild steel flat bar). With the new bar, I was able to do another little production run and made 20 more of the dog-hole fillers:
That lot should keep me going for a long time. I now have 36 of them which (if I were stupid enough and rich enough to buy such things) would have set me back £198 from Axminster! Since the 303 came out of the skip, it instead cost me a few hours work.
There's no way I would have bought them even if they were a quarter of the Axminster price and I didn't a lathe to make my own, but they should save a lot of lost parts so I'm pleased to have them all.
