Stuff you have made today

[Dcal]

@nickk nice job but you will need to protect it well if it's to last. The fine detail and bits tapering to a point will love to rust
If you prep well and paint it properly with the right paint it could last 20 year's before needing a touch up.

The great advantage of galvanising is it's self healing. Also you won't lose as much definition
Jotun have brought out a 2 pack galvanising paint which might be worth trying as an alternative to galvafroid (Barrier 80, but only available in 10 liter packs I think)
If you are going to use galvafroid, make sure you blast it first to get good adhesions to the steel

 

[Farside]

Today, I made...
some more room, well floor space. Three afternoons it took to simply double the existing clear area. That was the easy bit, the remainder is going to be tougher, as there's so much rubble and crap piled high on the left.

 

[Maker]

View attachment 179119 View attachment 179121
Bonus points for anyone who can tell what it's for....

Rubiks cube stand?

 

[Aesgarth]

Rubiks cube stand?
View attachment 179137

Bingo.

Also made a couple of wooden ones.

 

[nickk]

Bit more progress now,some detailing and I’ve made 2 Owains and 2 shields,I need to continue the reins as far as the bit,then make some stirrups,then beat it for contouring.
Going the galvafroid finish now since talking to the galvanisers,I’m confident of its lifespan as I’ll rough the surface with a grinder,also there’s no water traps and it’s high up in fresh air,so will free drain and dry in the lovely welsh weather.

 

[Lazurus]

Are the details just beads of weld?

 

[nickk]

Yes.i experimented with 3 mm rod,but wasn’t happy.

 

[Hitch]

Had a quiet week between finishing off a few small jobs, and a big one kicking off, so the boss got me to knock up some gates and posts for his drive and deer park (back garden)
Also made another matching set with slightly different sizes that are to be automated, and also a pedestrian gate of the same design.
Will go galv, and sprayed black. Centre ring will have a rosette fitted after galv.

Not really my line of work anymore, i'd forgotten how dirty mild steel is compared to stainless
Any grinding had to be done outside well away from any proper jobs to avoid any contamination from sparks and dust.
Migged up in the corner, screened off well.

 

[nickk]

How did you cut those angular holes,I always find that process labour heavy ,been intrigued how it was done in the factory in the day when they were mass produced pre electric welds.

 

[Badger1bear]

Asked if I could help out with a 1 ton bag, loading bucket. The floor is paper thin and the welds have broken. Plasma cut the crap out with the Hypertherm 45xp and made a template up out of hardboard. Should have some steel plate delivered by next weekend

 

[Farside]

Not today, made it a couple of weeks ago.

First try-out of the non-slip treatment of the ply ramp. Absolutely ace.

1. Thick coat of cheap red undercoat / red lead, anything you like.
2. Liberally spinkle some oven-dried coarse sand over it while still sopping wet.
3. Let it dry, then another coat of cheap red on top.
4. Let it dry and harden off for a week.
5. Have a glass of cheap red. Sod it, have a bottle.

 

[anto44]

Not finished yet but all tacked up ready to weld out. It's to replace the rusty one thats been patched up a few times. There's a mig weld on the old one that's over an inch wide

 

[Geoffm]

@nickk nice job but you will need to protect it well if it's to last. The fine detail and bits tapering to a point will love to rust
If you prep well and paint it properly with the right paint it could last 20 year's before needing a touch up.

The great advantage of galvanising is it's self healing. Also you won't lose as much definition
Jotun have brought out a 2 pack galvanising paint which might be worth trying as an alternative to galvafroid (Barrier 80, but only available in 10 liter packs I think)
If you are going to use galvafroid, make sure you blast it first to get good adhesions to the steel

You could also get it zinc metal sprayed, which is less likely to warp than hot dip galv. Not as heavy coating of zinc however.

 

[mrsbruce]

Several things done over the last couple of days.

First is the reason everything else has been getting put off. There must be a comicon coming up, as I’ve made 3 Red Dead Redemption rigs for customers.

The last one was a rush job, which I was happy to do. It’s the Micah Bell rig, and was hard work (second one I made for posting last week). Lots of carving, lots of ‘ageing’ of leather, lots of getting creative with bits of leather and silver paint.

After getting those out the way, I finally fitted the cheap tachometer to my Clarke lathe. Once I did that, I turned diwn a handle for about the only decent file I have found. Most of the files with handles are fairly goosed (can they be cleaned/sharpened?), and the few decent ones have no handles (lucky I have a lathe, then).

 

[Slowcoach]

Never seen a file with a steel handle before.How have you secured the handle to the file tang. A file card i think is used for cleaning.

 

[mrsbruce]

Never seen a file with a steel handle before.How have you secured the handle to the file tang. A file card i think is used for cleaning.

I’ve cheated a bit, as it’s not actually attached yet. I figured I could use epoxy, or jb weld to secure the handle. I just liked the idea of a brass handle.

 

[pedrobedro]

I’ve cheated a bit, as it’s not actually attached yet. I figured I could use epoxy, or jb weld to secure the handle. I just liked the idea of a brass handle.

I use a bit of brush handle drilled to knock the file tang into. The idea is the handle is reusable and the file is disposable.

 

[mrsbruce]

I use a bit of brush handle drilled to knock the file tang into. The idea is the handle is reusable and the file is disposable.

Lets be honest, at the rate I use files, “it will see me oot”.

 

[Melvyn Best]

Several things done over the last couple of days.

First is the reason everything else has been getting put off. There must be a comicon coming up, as I’ve made 3 Red Dead Redemption rigs for customers.

The last one was a rush job, which I was happy to do. It’s the Micah Bell rig, and was hard work (second one I made for posting last week). Lots of carving, lots of ‘ageing’ of leather, lots of getting creative with bits of leather and silver paint.

After getting those out the way, I finally fitted the cheap tachometer to my Clarke lathe. Once I did that, I turned diwn a handle for about the only decent file I have found. Most of the files with handles are fairly goosed (can they be cleaned/sharpened?), and the few decent ones have no handles (lucky I have a lathe, then).

Leave the files out in damp weather or drop them into a bucket of water, then let them rust a bit , apparently it helps to sharpen them.

 

[gordon stephenson]

Also put blunt files into a shallow container of sulphuric ( battery) acid for a little while then rinse off, Brings then back to life.