Stuff you have made today

[Brad93]

They're alright they just get red hot, this little 200A one isnt actually that strong now, it spends most of the time on the floor and its always sparking and crap. Have used the big 600A one and they're worth having but theyre £100s

 

[Moose McAlpine]

They're alright they just get red hot, this little 200A one isnt actually that strong now, it spends most of the time on the floor and its always sparking and crap. Have used the big 600A one and they're worth having but theyre £100s

I have the little one the same. Was quite disappointed when i first used it, it's nowhere near as strong as i thought it'd be. It's ok on flat stuff, but use it on pipe and it falls off if you look at it too hard, let alone move your workpiece.

 

[bricol]

one of two.

View attachment 298884 View attachment 298885 View attachment 298886

Now that's where gussets should go - onto the strongest part of the hollow section!

 

[cianh91]

Depends what you think I'm doing. This one won't be galvanised as its an experiment, if it works like I hope the next one will be.

Something similar to this

 

[henry Kadzielski]

What's the mag return clamp like i have the same one here never wired it up.

I have one, I think a 500amp rated one and use it for the playground equipment builds. It's OK does get hot though when the Esetti 350 is cranked flat out (380amps). The insulation has melted back about 20mm from the attachment bolt, this will need redoing in the not to distant future. However overall it's ok. One thing to watch is that the steel is clean and not rusty.

 

[Brad93]

Now that's where gussets should go - onto the strongest part of the hollow section!

Aye, no point putting them in the middle, try and fully weld them in the middle of the box and it will just distort all over the place. This is well overkill for what it is but the customer is looking for a rustic/early 1900's look.

 

[MCKDAVID]

gave up on magnets long ago, I always seem to have daft shapes on the bench, often have kit with bearings in etc, have tried all connectors at one time or another, just use a 300A croc type clipped directly onto the job, even though it's an all steel bench. Had too many arc strikes from poor contact over the years damaging kit, so just go direct to the job now more reliable..

 

[Kram]

Got a 25mm mt2 sleeve, it has a tang socket I needed to bore out for m10 draw bar. I thought this would be hardened but file cuts it, ,turned better with carbide than cbn, lathe doesnt like it might be en19. Had to turn shoulder OD down to 31.5 so it could go reverse end up a er40 collet.
I have a few taper tools I want to part the tang off, drill and tap, not sure how best to hold them.

 

[DAPPH]

Might be talking out my hat.. if you have Delrin or other thick plastic or brass turn out a matching taper on a round stock finely split it on one side . pop your taper inside the new bit and put it in your three jaw , support the free end as need till almost parted through then remove support , if you have a big enough three jaw steady use that for support .

 

[RichardM]

I wouldn't do it out of plastic as it will probably deform when clamping up. I have a drill chuck arbor I need to do the same thing to. I was thinking of just putting some stock in the 3 jaw, trueing it up and clamping the drill chuck to it.
I also have a 3-2MT adapter which I was thinking of turning the outside parallel for just that purpose as well. According to the marks on the outside I don't think it is hardened but haven't tried filing it yet. Then splitting it along the length so I could clamp it in the 3 / 4 jaw and do the same, or maybe turn the outside parralel, loctite the 2mt arbor, in drill, tap etc, stick in oven with tea and then knock the altered arbor out when hot.

 

[JMS1972]

I wouldn't do it out of plastic as it will probably deform when clamping up. I have a drill chuck arbor I need to do the same thing to. I was thinking of just putting some stock in the 3 jaw, trueing it up and clamping the drill chuck to it.
I also have a 3-2MT adapter which I was thinking of turning the outside parallel for just that purpose as well. According to the marks on the outside I don't think it is hardened but haven't tried filing it yet. Then splitting it along the length so I could clamp it in the 3 / 4 jaw and do the same.

You can buy MT2 and MT3 sleeves wth cylindrical out side diameter I think they were originally for Capstan lathes hence they are usually 1" diameter. Would that help?

Looks like the Morse Taper extension sleeves are easier to find these days just clamp on the parallel part?

Arbor Morse Taper Sleeve Adapter Reducing Shank Accessories Drill Sleeve Tools | eBay

1 x Morse Taper Extension Sleeve. Drill sleeves is used to change the taper of the connective arbors. Allows the tool to be inserted directly into the machine & spindle to facilitate. Mainly used in drilling machine and lathe machine.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[RichardM]

Might help @Kram
For me the 3-2 sleeve is sitting in the scrap pile on the bench at the moment so I will just hold the end in the 3 jaw and put a running centre into the tang to turn it down (no cost option )

 

[Onoff]

From This, via citric acid, sleep and a laugh.

View attachment 298210


To this.


View attachment 298211

Why Blue?
Under the black, red, black was blue.
So I made it blue.
What am I to do with it?

Have a few ideas in my head.

Make the basis of a nice salad that...

 

[Kram]

Yes I can use the parallel sleeve in the er40 chuck but as soon as the drill touches the item, it will pop out the taper. I could make a push bar to go up the spindle to counter the drilling force.

 

[awemawson]

A set of pockets for my Crawford Multisize M673 collets to stop them rattling about in a drawer.

Conveniently their diameter just fits 68 mm rainwater downpipe so slices cut, glued with solvent adhesive and the job's a goodun

 

[Maker]

Made a little mandrel to use 3" slitting discs on my die grinder.



Not keen on using an unguarded abrasive wheel but it's for one specific job where I think it should be safe enough.

 

[JMS1972]

Second attempt at making the bandsaw mobile.

Note the castors extend beyond the original stand to cope with the motor and gearbox overhang.

I did attempt TIG to join the stand to my new frame but was just too uncomfortable so ended up with corner brackets.

Don't look to closely it's all welded on a Cebora Turbo Mig with CO2. Proper old school bodgery.

 

[Moose McAlpine]

Made a little mandrel to use 3" slitting discs on my die grinder.
View attachment 298985
View attachment 298986

Not keen on using an unguarded abrasive wheel but it's for one specific job where I think it should be safe enough.

Air cut-off tool no good?

Or maybe not worth buying for one job.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Second attempt at making the bandsaw mobile.

Note the castors extend beyond the original stand to cope with the motor and gearbox overhang.

View attachment 299010
I did attempt TIG to join the stand to my new frame but was just too uncomfortable so ended up with corner brackets.

View attachment 299011

Don't look to closely it's all welded on a Cebora Turbo Mig with CO2. Proper old school bodgery.

Sloap some paint on. who will know?

 

[Maker]

Air cut-off tool no good?

View attachment 299012

Or maybe not worth buying for one job.

Don't have one, and don't like using air tools anyway. Die grinder worked a treat, just neatly cutting the top out of this strange stainless barrel thing.


Next job will be to weld a big threaded boss to the side of it to accept an immersion element, it's going to be an electric mash tun/brew kettle. Got a couple more but I don't think I can be bothered cutting them leaving the handles behind, I'll just run a 4.5" wheel around the outside.