Prajna
Fixing things for the love of it
- Messages
- 682
- Location
- Castelo Branco, Portugal
Hey, another kiwi. Gidday.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Memmeddu
Member
- Messages
- 5,540
- Location
- Italia Sardegna
After maybe a month or two I've welded something.
Truck sides column , just added two Square tube receivers for a stiffening bar ,to avoid them to spread open .
I'll weld them on the truck bed most likely next Friday .
Considering that it's been awhile since I've welded something , that it's a fillet joint on 2mm box tube and 10mm plate , that I've used 2.5mm(3/32") 7018 for that .
I think that's not too bad I believe.
It will be way easier to weld them in place ,10 on 5mm vertical up
Truck sides column , just added two Square tube receivers for a stiffening bar ,to avoid them to spread open .
I'll weld them on the truck bed most likely next Friday .
Considering that it's been awhile since I've welded something , that it's a fillet joint on 2mm box tube and 10mm plate , that I've used 2.5mm(3/32") 7018 for that .
I think that's not too bad I believe.
It will be way easier to weld them in place ,10 on 5mm vertical up
They won't fall off that's for sure.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,496
- Location
- Manchester UK
Well, it's different. Need to see it all back together, will prolly look good.
Myself, I made a toolholder for the new quickchange system, fast n dirty. It too came out okay, I was using the system itself to do the drilling and machining and it is one of the best things I have bought. Need more toolholders but they are going to have to wait a while just now. I have milled a 10mm recess in the base and bolted a bit of keysteel in there so when I am using it I just grip it in the vice and off I go.
spaffmonkey
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 876
- Location
- Northampton
After tripping over a bucket of old bolts for several years a not having any use for them I decided to get creative.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,570
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
A massively over-engineered portable workbench with two fully home-made quick-release vices:
More details (and LOTS more photos) in this thread for those who haven't been following along: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/portable-bench-top-workbench.110386/
More details (and LOTS more photos) in this thread for those who haven't been following along: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/portable-bench-top-workbench.110386/
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Is that for presetting the tool heights or just for tightening?
Tangledfeet
Think outside, no box required.
- Messages
- 3,198
- Location
- Top of a hill above St Andrews, Fife
Bearings arrived so I was able to assemble my hold-down clamps; F-clamps, stainless M12 bolts and locknuts from Zoro and 63001-2RS (28mm OD, 12mm ID, 12m thick) bearings from eBay - made six in total. In all they came to £10.40ea and they work a treat so I'm feeling a bit chuffed.
The fixed ends that were cut off itching for further use so made a series of hooks for general usage...
Oh, and knocked up a wee rack for other clamps...
The fixed ends that were cut off itching for further use so made a series of hooks for general usage...
Oh, and knocked up a wee rack for other clamps...
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,496
- Location
- Manchester UK
Just for tightening. I have a similar but completely different system for the CNC (?). The toolholder in the CNC is not working as it should and it is a palaver getting the holder itself out so I have all of the tooling for that Mill in ER11 toolholders and with a quick twist of an Allen key they are interchangeable. I will get it fixed, eventually.
I do want to make some sort of toolsetter but I need to crack on with actual work at the minute. I am able to research it at the minute though.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,496
- Location
- Manchester UK
Do you have a pic of these in action? Do you think they would work in 10 or 12mm plate?
Tangledfeet
Think outside, no box required.
- Messages
- 3,198
- Location
- Top of a hill above St Andrews, Fife
The wider bearing (12mm) is noticeably more secure in my 8mm table than the 8mm ones I'd used for a prototype a few pages back. For 10 or 12 you could perhaps try a shoulder bolt with two slimmer bearings - depending on what size holes you have? I only used bearings as I don't have easy access to a centre lathe.
I'll take some photos of them being used in the morning and send them to you.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
There are basically 2 ways to do toolsetting on the CNC, one is online the other offline. I prefer the offline and made up a setter that integrates with Mach for the Beaver and then when I got the Chiron I made another for it, they work great
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,496
- Location
- Manchester UK
Thanks, I was thinking these would be good in my new portable table. I have a Mag Drill on loan at the minute with a full set of bits so now would be the time for me to do this.
sako243
Member
- Messages
- 4,217
- Location
- My mansion in Wales
A frankenwasher
My parents had an old Mistral pressure washer with a Cat Pump Model 270 in it (old piston driven pump but very good little unit). Anyway electric motor died and Dad sourced a new motor but ended up buying a new pressure washer from the same guys.
So a rummage in the scrap bin found a big bit of C channel (the flange on the motor and the pump made things awkwards). Then three plates tacked on top of each other to provide the necessary spacing for the pump unit (previously was mounted directly to the motor) and then all bodged onto the old frame.
Anyway it's all up and running so now I might source a little diesel engine to drive it instead so it's more portable.
My parents had an old Mistral pressure washer with a Cat Pump Model 270 in it (old piston driven pump but very good little unit). Anyway electric motor died and Dad sourced a new motor but ended up buying a new pressure washer from the same guys.
So a rummage in the scrap bin found a big bit of C channel (the flange on the motor and the pump made things awkwards). Then three plates tacked on top of each other to provide the necessary spacing for the pump unit (previously was mounted directly to the motor) and then all bodged onto the old frame.
Anyway it's all up and running so now I might source a little diesel engine to drive it instead so it's more portable.
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,472
- Location
- New Zealand
Nice buggy, is it a kit or did you fabricate yourself? Would you mind showing the drivetrain?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,332
- Location
- Going Away.
Yesterday I got this nice single speed B&D drill. It worked, but failed the PAT.
Now, I don't have access to my works PAT machine, the machine used was a cheep one in MIS. That just gives you a pass or fail.
So it is not that useful.
I have had a few of this type of drill go through my hands, so I am familiar with them.
First item to test/replace is the capacitor in the handle, below the trigger. On this one there was some corrosion on the contacts, soon cleaned.
Rear bearing, this always seams to attract dirt and crud. Mostly the dust from the carbon bushes.
Cleaned up and the bearing oiled up. I have bottle of B&D bearing oil from my visit to B&D in Slough.
I took time to clean the cooling fins as well.
The Bushes were looked and are fine.
The gear box grease is always hard and spread out on these old drills.
A good tip here.
When removing the box, hold the small spacer that is fitted between the elec. motor and box. That way the rotoe stays put and the bushed do not pop out at the other end.
Just clean out the old grease and replace with bearing grease.
Assembled, chuck cleaned and lubricated and a replacement chuck key supplied.
Re tested this morning and it passed.
It will be given a MIS asset number and added to the tools.
I have found out some members seam to like using the old tools and will gravitate to them.
This is why I like to acquire items like this.
Got a few spares chuck keys.
Now, I don't have access to my works PAT machine, the machine used was a cheep one in MIS. That just gives you a pass or fail.
So it is not that useful.
I have had a few of this type of drill go through my hands, so I am familiar with them.
First item to test/replace is the capacitor in the handle, below the trigger. On this one there was some corrosion on the contacts, soon cleaned.
Rear bearing, this always seams to attract dirt and crud. Mostly the dust from the carbon bushes.
Cleaned up and the bearing oiled up. I have bottle of B&D bearing oil from my visit to B&D in Slough.
I took time to clean the cooling fins as well.
The Bushes were looked and are fine.
The gear box grease is always hard and spread out on these old drills.
A good tip here.
When removing the box, hold the small spacer that is fitted between the elec. motor and box. That way the rotoe stays put and the bushed do not pop out at the other end.
Just clean out the old grease and replace with bearing grease.
Assembled, chuck cleaned and lubricated and a replacement chuck key supplied.
Re tested this morning and it passed.
It will be given a MIS asset number and added to the tools.
I have found out some members seam to like using the old tools and will gravitate to them.
This is why I like to acquire items like this.
Got a few spares chuck keys.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,332
- Location
- Going Away.
Got the nice hatchet style soldering iron.
I find it good to heat up old grease in B&D gear box's to help removing the crud.
So I cleaned it up.
Also in the picture you can see a cobblers hammer head.
Nice snug fit.
