Other Daniel
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A very nice tip too ...
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
A very nice tip too ...
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Yup. Chuffed.
Will be put to good use.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Had a look at a roller system today to try and come up with a plan to solve a rope jumping out of sheaves issue.
Made a few measurements and then off to the workshop to do a rough model of the hauler and section of the wheelhouse and then draw up an idea for rollers.
Below is the result of that, the blue bit is the roller bracket, the green hauler and yellow wheelhouse shape.
Out to the plasma and chop up some 8mm left over from another job, could have done with 16mm for the removable bearing housings but didn't have any so had to sandwich some 8mm. Then onto the Chiron and milled out the bearing pockets.
Starting to weld up the frame.
Second part of the horizontal roller bracket in place, this was easy as it had support on two sides so no issues with it being out of alignment.
Lower plate however does not have anything to stop it drawing with the weld so a jack and a clamp were used to hold the plate at 90 degrees for welding.
All the welding done.
Only had enough 50mm Dia stainless to make the long roller and only had one stainless bearing of the correct size.
Made a few measurements and then off to the workshop to do a rough model of the hauler and section of the wheelhouse and then draw up an idea for rollers.
Below is the result of that, the blue bit is the roller bracket, the green hauler and yellow wheelhouse shape.
Out to the plasma and chop up some 8mm left over from another job, could have done with 16mm for the removable bearing housings but didn't have any so had to sandwich some 8mm. Then onto the Chiron and milled out the bearing pockets.
Starting to weld up the frame.
Second part of the horizontal roller bracket in place, this was easy as it had support on two sides so no issues with it being out of alignment.
Lower plate however does not have anything to stop it drawing with the weld so a jack and a clamp were used to hold the plate at 90 degrees for welding.
All the welding done.
Only had enough 50mm Dia stainless to make the long roller and only had one stainless bearing of the correct size.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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- ......
eLuSiVeMiTe
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northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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Poked another of those cartridge shaped holes into a bit of stainless tube again:
Started around seven-ish this morning with a blank and the whole job, including Cerakoting the receiver, was done by tea time. The attachment you see on the reamer is a micrometer stop. Wasn't the cheapest bit of tooling I bought but it saves me real time and removes the chance of accidentally going too deep and having to start again. I use it all the time now as it is so accurate (or I am getting used to using it).
Started around seven-ish this morning with a blank and the whole job, including Cerakoting the receiver, was done by tea time. The attachment you see on the reamer is a micrometer stop. Wasn't the cheapest bit of tooling I bought but it saves me real time and removes the chance of accidentally going too deep and having to start again. I use it all the time now as it is so accurate (or I am getting used to using it).
eLuSiVeMiTe
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Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I made a knurled ring for a little Albrecht chuck.
I've only got a push-type "Knacker your spindle bearings" knurler so they're barely deeper than scratches but should be enough to provide some grip. I've just realised as I'm typing this that I drilled the 4mm hole right down to the slot so it's not actually gonna clamp on.
I've only got a push-type "Knacker your spindle bearings" knurler so they're barely deeper than scratches but should be enough to provide some grip. I've just realised as I'm typing this that I drilled the 4mm hole right down to the slot so it's not actually gonna clamp on.
In my defence I was looking on my phone, and the ligth in my (real) microwave broke a few years ago, so I was blinded by desire for an easy fix for it.Compare the size with the radiator, it's a child's play kitchen.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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That's brilliant! Nice work.
I usually discover these kind of mistakes rigth after I made them. Oh well the second one is going to turn out a lot nicer overall :-)I made a knurled ring for a little Albrecht chuck.
View attachment 243261
I've only got a push-type "Knacker your spindle bearings" knurler so they're barely deeper than scratches but should be enough to provide some grip. I've just realised as I'm typing this that I drilled the 4mm hole right down to the slot so it's not actually gonna clamp on.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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The second one might have a blind hole so you won't see how far the tap drill wanders.
Last edited:
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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I have used one for a while.
Best advice is to wear when you need it, not all the time.
With my damage it took 2 years to recover. It is only when I used it when I needed did my recovery speed up.
Oh yes, as my old dad used to say.
Change hands after 99.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Old Fashioned Repairs in a Modern world.
Or TYA cheep way of fixing tools.
A Nice Firmer chisel, with box wood handle and a Brass feral.
The edge has worn and the tang was loose in the handle.
Rust had worn the hole for the tang.
This design of the handle does not allow the hole to be opened up and a dowel fitted.
Bu they can be saved.
Clean the rust of, clean the hole out. Clean the handle.
The handle come up better with wire wools and Meths to clean up and remove the dirt and grime.
I like to use a wax and oil mix and a good buffing by hand.
The tang is soft and will bend or snap if you are to hard with cleaning it. You need to use a light hammer with good sharp short blows to bring it back in line. As the next stage will soften the metal.
Fill the handle with sulphur.
This is the old fashioned way. I use it a lot. but oddly never posted it.
But a good member here prompted me to.
Warm the tang, you are looking for a dark straw colour. So it is best to start with a clean tang.
Don't heat in one place and watch the shade travel. Move the tang and adjust your position for an even colour.
Please wear gloves, that is my left arm were feelings are not always present.
Press fit, by hand the tang and handle together.
Do this in a ventilated place. That door was opened as soon as the picture was taken.
Zoom in you see the sulphur bubbling and showing up as a dark smudge. That's what you looking for.
Enjoy using a decent old tool.
Or TYA cheep way of fixing tools.
A Nice Firmer chisel, with box wood handle and a Brass feral.
The edge has worn and the tang was loose in the handle.
Rust had worn the hole for the tang.
This design of the handle does not allow the hole to be opened up and a dowel fitted.
Bu they can be saved.
Clean the rust of, clean the hole out. Clean the handle.
The handle come up better with wire wools and Meths to clean up and remove the dirt and grime.
I like to use a wax and oil mix and a good buffing by hand.
The tang is soft and will bend or snap if you are to hard with cleaning it. You need to use a light hammer with good sharp short blows to bring it back in line. As the next stage will soften the metal.
Fill the handle with sulphur.
This is the old fashioned way. I use it a lot. but oddly never posted it.
But a good member here prompted me to.
Warm the tang, you are looking for a dark straw colour. So it is best to start with a clean tang.
Don't heat in one place and watch the shade travel. Move the tang and adjust your position for an even colour.
Please wear gloves, that is my left arm were feelings are not always present.
Press fit, by hand the tang and handle together.
Do this in a ventilated place. That door was opened as soon as the picture was taken.
Zoom in you see the sulphur bubbling and showing up as a dark smudge. That's what you looking for.
Enjoy using a decent old tool.
Morrisman
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Lazurus
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TYA what does the sulphur do? Does it act as an adhesive?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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It acts as a glue and it foams up to fill the voids.
It is the traditional way of fixing tangs to box wood.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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This is a very natural, strong and repeatable way of securing tangs in handles. I have used this method with success, especially re-using old file handles on new files.
EDIT: As above don't try this with plastic handles!
Olderisbetter
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Today I made a clutch alignment tool for a VW tyype 1 engine from a yorkshire 15mm coupler pushed onto a 15mm pipe, i had to file the stop from the middle of the coupler and added a T on the end as a handle,, also made a bit of connection pipe for the crankcase breather filter using two 22mm street elbows.
