- Thread starter God mode restorations
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doubleboost
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made the 2 brass stars
Cuthy246
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Love a tidy patch panel. Re did one at my previous job. No before unfortunately, colour coded, red for phones blue for PC's and an odd green for a machine connection.
cianh91
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- 737
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- kildare ireland
Fitted these Thursday with the fronts to be stained by customer
then was meant to fit these yesterday but weather put a halt to that so they go up soon as the weather clears
locinox lock to go in one and a gapped end to fit around plumbing that can’t be moved
indy4x
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Love colour coding, ours are white for PC's, blue for phones and red for servers
Although all our new phones are daisy chained with the users PC/Laptop
Nick DV
"That's the only name they ever gave me."
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Ahh, I see
3000alloy
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- Ireland
What are they ?
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
Dr.Al
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- Gloucestershire, UK
The jig I made yesterday for planing / thicknessing (in post #11016 in this thread) runs really nicely on bits of 3030 t-slot extrusion. Running on the extrusion limits the height of the material being "planed" to 30 mm. The original plan had been that if I wanted to "plane" anything thicker, I'd find something taller to run it on (maybe just two long lengths of the extrusion, one on top of the other), but it occurred to me this evening that I could use some short and otherwise largely useless offcuts of the extrusion to make a removable height extender.
They attach on each end with a single M5 cap screw (so can be quickly removed for < 30 mm material and quickly fitted for ≥ 30 mm material) and have UHMW tape on the top and inside surface, just like the main body has.
The bit of bar that forms the continuation of the fence is made from the offcut produced by turning the 40 × 40 × 4 mm equal angle into 40 × 20 × 4 mm unequal angle, so the whole project (except screws and washers) was made from stuff that was destined for the bin!
Lots of rough finishes as everything was cut to size on the bandsaw and I couldn't be bothered to clean it all up in the mill. I haven't got any wood thicker than 30 mm at the moment, so I haven't tried it out, but I can't see why it wouldn't work.
Not obvious in those photos, but I also replaced four of the 8 mm screw holding the (4 mm thick) angle bits together with some 10 mm screws. They protrude ever so slightly into the track that the router runs on and are conveniently in the right place such that the router hits them and stops sliding along the track just before the cutter hits the extrusion.
They attach on each end with a single M5 cap screw (so can be quickly removed for < 30 mm material and quickly fitted for ≥ 30 mm material) and have UHMW tape on the top and inside surface, just like the main body has.
The bit of bar that forms the continuation of the fence is made from the offcut produced by turning the 40 × 40 × 4 mm equal angle into 40 × 20 × 4 mm unequal angle, so the whole project (except screws and washers) was made from stuff that was destined for the bin!
Lots of rough finishes as everything was cut to size on the bandsaw and I couldn't be bothered to clean it all up in the mill. I haven't got any wood thicker than 30 mm at the moment, so I haven't tried it out, but I can't see why it wouldn't work.
Not obvious in those photos, but I also replaced four of the 8 mm screw holding the (4 mm thick) angle bits together with some 10 mm screws. They protrude ever so slightly into the track that the router runs on and are conveniently in the right place such that the router hits them and stops sliding along the track just before the cutter hits the extrusion.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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- North Kent, UK
Nice!
I had to Google these - never seen them before.
Do you do a lot of pipe welding Brad? I can see that they’d also be very handy for general fab work.
Brad93
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The odd bit here and there, I used to do more pipe fabrication when I was at the last firm.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
On Friday, just gone I met @Dr.Al and left with this.
A Blacksmiths odd leg vice.
After some pre work before it arrived we worked out how to have a MIS session at my place. A big change. not just to Covid-19, but a big leaning on H&S.
The lower pivot point. 3 nuts and seized bolt. RHS you can see the top mount what was also jammed.
New H&S meant I had to do this, the MIS member was allowed to watch and be on fire watch.
This showed him that heat will free a lot up.
The second member saw the middle nut having the same treatment.
The image also gives a idea how rusty the vice was.
The moving leg and jaw. This is after a clean up with power tools.
The metal was badly pitted, but in solid condition. The age related damaged was left, but burs and sharp edges removed.
By files and stones.
The oil and crud of time on the thread and threaded tube did not shift with any "over the counter" products. Petrol may off shifted it. But this method had it gone. This was used to show that old tools and the correct use can produce results.
The Blackening.
2 methods.
Nut, bolt and tube top left hand was heated and oil dipped. Groundnut oil was used and gave good results.
The rest was a kit, this is the first failure I had with it. With in 10 minutes the brown stain appeared, it rubbed off with a cloth. But the blackening cam with it.
So it was redone, same methods, different results.
Today, the same 2 members came back and we carried on.
The last job on Saturday was the hand paint the main parts with a clear metal sealer.
This simple picture contains a lot of information.
You can see 2 leather washers on the handle. They were cut out with a bit and brace and a washer cuter.
A simple sounding job, but took a bit of time. I let the 2 members try to work out how to use the tool.
Learn by doing.
The top mount is fitted. Using the original metal work. But as I am currently missing a spring. The mount would rattle around and be useless. Until a spring can be sourced.
So 2 sliding wedges were cut from Redwood, waxed up and hammered into place.
During the build a mix of oil and wax was applied to the metal. Buffed up and ensuring all the metal is covered.
Finished.
The blackened parts don't show up well in the image, but there is a big difference.
The wax and oil finish gives a nice "aged" look to the metal.
A Blacksmiths odd leg vice.
After some pre work before it arrived we worked out how to have a MIS session at my place. A big change. not just to Covid-19, but a big leaning on H&S.
The lower pivot point. 3 nuts and seized bolt. RHS you can see the top mount what was also jammed.
New H&S meant I had to do this, the MIS member was allowed to watch and be on fire watch.
This showed him that heat will free a lot up.
The second member saw the middle nut having the same treatment.
The image also gives a idea how rusty the vice was.
The moving leg and jaw. This is after a clean up with power tools.
The metal was badly pitted, but in solid condition. The age related damaged was left, but burs and sharp edges removed.
By files and stones.
The oil and crud of time on the thread and threaded tube did not shift with any "over the counter" products. Petrol may off shifted it. But this method had it gone. This was used to show that old tools and the correct use can produce results.
The Blackening.
2 methods.
Nut, bolt and tube top left hand was heated and oil dipped. Groundnut oil was used and gave good results.
The rest was a kit, this is the first failure I had with it. With in 10 minutes the brown stain appeared, it rubbed off with a cloth. But the blackening cam with it.
So it was redone, same methods, different results.
Today, the same 2 members came back and we carried on.
The last job on Saturday was the hand paint the main parts with a clear metal sealer.
This simple picture contains a lot of information.
You can see 2 leather washers on the handle. They were cut out with a bit and brace and a washer cuter.
A simple sounding job, but took a bit of time. I let the 2 members try to work out how to use the tool.
Learn by doing.
The top mount is fitted. Using the original metal work. But as I am currently missing a spring. The mount would rattle around and be useless. Until a spring can be sourced.
So 2 sliding wedges were cut from Redwood, waxed up and hammered into place.
During the build a mix of oil and wax was applied to the metal. Buffed up and ensuring all the metal is covered.
Finished.
The blackened parts don't show up well in the image, but there is a big difference.
The wax and oil finish gives a nice "aged" look to the metal.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,328
- Location
- Going Away.
@Dr.Al Vice part 2
This shows one of the top mount wedges, as removed.
The rust is bad, the burrs on both ends, will not allow an easy rebuild.
Same item.
De-rusted. A mix of power tools and files.
We could of made a new items, after all it is just bar steel. But this is original and the fun of restoring it over rode the idea to replace.
This blackened and waxed.
Anotrher item from the good Dr.Al. I got the speed controller working, a dry joint.
From a modern(ish) drill to the old age of drills.
Bit and brace with a washer cutter.
The results.
Just a pretty red thing.
This shows one of the top mount wedges, as removed.
The rust is bad, the burrs on both ends, will not allow an easy rebuild.
Same item.
De-rusted. A mix of power tools and files.
We could of made a new items, after all it is just bar steel. But this is original and the fun of restoring it over rode the idea to replace.
This blackened and waxed.
Anotrher item from the good Dr.Al. I got the speed controller working, a dry joint.
From a modern(ish) drill to the old age of drills.
Bit and brace with a washer cutter.
The results.
Just a pretty red thing.
Help, I can't find it on google or YT, do you mind elaborating on this?
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 19,096
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
