- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Nice job but I'd be inclined to move it out from the wall so the worktop space is on top of your new drawer instead of in front of it.Well, finished today! Made from pieces of treasure I'd been storing.
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Framework
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Drawer
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Just have to fill it with mill bits.
If you're anything like me, you'll barely use the drawer because you'll constantly be having to move the stuff you've put in front of it (though you can see your horizontal spaces and your floor so you're probably not like me and you're going to be ok)
paradipiro
Member
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Tri clamp lifting gear formmay Nike.
I still have half of the old panel left and some draw runners. May bend a new drawer and cover up. Unfortunately no small box for the frame, maybe cut some thicker stuff in half.
Got a few other jobs to prioritise, but if it rains it'll keep me out of wife's hair!
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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I designed and 3d printed some hooks for my test leads.
22 months after building the workbench and I've finally managed to make the bench top and finish the whole thing off.
Some chop sawing, table sawing, planing and thicknessing involved.
That's two projects finished in a week now. I'm on a roll.
Some chop sawing, table sawing, planing and thicknessing involved.
That's two projects finished in a week now. I'm on a roll.
MattF
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Just done the same with plum.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Just done the same with plum.
Wasps had most of our fruit this year. Apples, plums, figs all decimated.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Start of a hopefully lazy day after a week "off" working on a rental property. Did get the pear wine on the go here yesterday morning which was good.
Nice quite house and I'm dossing on the sofa with a cat and a blanket. Tweaked my back yesterday handballing insulation rolls into the loft and over reaching. Nearly done, 100mm between the joists and 170mm on top the other way to hopefully get the ECP up a notch. Just a centre bit to cut and fit. Eaves left clear for ventilation. I also loosed off two cans of Parkside Anti Marten Spray along the edges of the loft in the hope of deterring mice etc. I'd earlier in the week removed all the old, "itchy stuff", sunken insulation and vacuumed the whole area.
Lulled I am by the rhythmic sound of a strong fermentation as the airlock goes blip, blip, blip...like an alcoholic clock. Very comforting.
Nice quite house and I'm dossing on the sofa with a cat and a blanket. Tweaked my back yesterday handballing insulation rolls into the loft and over reaching. Nearly done, 100mm between the joists and 170mm on top the other way to hopefully get the ECP up a notch. Just a centre bit to cut and fit. Eaves left clear for ventilation. I also loosed off two cans of Parkside Anti Marten Spray along the edges of the loft in the hope of deterring mice etc. I'd earlier in the week removed all the old, "itchy stuff", sunken insulation and vacuumed the whole area.
Lulled I am by the rhythmic sound of a strong fermentation as the airlock goes blip, blip, blip...like an alcoholic clock. Very comforting.
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
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I initially planned to sacrifice a small drill bit, but then opted to use a roll pin. Seems to work well and I would do it this way again.
Dr.Al
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My (second-hand, from a junk shop) Rapier #43 plough plane didn't come with any blades. I've been meaning to make some for it for a long time but I finally got round to it yesterday. I've used it quite a bit in the past and it's a lovely little plane, but I've always just relied on my (home-made out of of gauge plate) blades for the #45, which are quite long (and have a notch for the depth adjuster). They work fine, but the protruding blade is a little uncomfortable in the hand:
Following a thread on another forum I thought I'd try making some blades the lazy way: out of high speed steel instead of gauge plate. Doing so means no heat treatment: just grinding them to shape. Time will tell how they compare to carbon steel blades (from what I've read, high speed steel isn't that great with < 45° bevel angles) but they won't get the same amount of use as a proper plane blade so I'm not too concerned.
I've made them in 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm (ish) and 6 mm widths, all 3 mm thick and all 70 mm long:
I say "ish" for the 5 mm one because they were all made from ready-sized (but much longer) blanks. The 3 mm, 4 mm and 6 mm ones were pretty close to the nominal dimension, but the 5 mm blank was only 4.9 mm wide. I'm sure that's close enough for woodwork (I can always plane the wood going into the groove down a little to get it to fit).
I also 3D-printed a simple little case for them:
"Why now?" I hear none of you crying out. Well, there's a simple reason for that. I was loading up the travel toolchest yesterday and it occurred to me that it would be interesting to see if the plough plane would fit into one of the unallocated pockets in one of the drawers. I had to fully dismantle it (including removing the depth stop), but it fits remarkably snuggly (with the blade case sitting in an Altoids tin that I take with me for odds and sods):
I don't really need a plough plane in the kit (I've got the router plane with its fence) but a plough plane will do a much better job of, well, ploughing. It might also mean I can, at some point in the future, use the space currently allocated to the router plane fence for something else: that's quite a deep pocket (the fence stands upright in the router plane drawer) so the space could be quite useful.
Following a thread on another forum I thought I'd try making some blades the lazy way: out of high speed steel instead of gauge plate. Doing so means no heat treatment: just grinding them to shape. Time will tell how they compare to carbon steel blades (from what I've read, high speed steel isn't that great with < 45° bevel angles) but they won't get the same amount of use as a proper plane blade so I'm not too concerned.
I've made them in 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm (ish) and 6 mm widths, all 3 mm thick and all 70 mm long:
I say "ish" for the 5 mm one because they were all made from ready-sized (but much longer) blanks. The 3 mm, 4 mm and 6 mm ones were pretty close to the nominal dimension, but the 5 mm blank was only 4.9 mm wide. I'm sure that's close enough for woodwork (I can always plane the wood going into the groove down a little to get it to fit).
I also 3D-printed a simple little case for them:
"Why now?" I hear none of you crying out. Well, there's a simple reason for that. I was loading up the travel toolchest yesterday and it occurred to me that it would be interesting to see if the plough plane would fit into one of the unallocated pockets in one of the drawers. I had to fully dismantle it (including removing the depth stop), but it fits remarkably snuggly (with the blade case sitting in an Altoids tin that I take with me for odds and sods):
I don't really need a plough plane in the kit (I've got the router plane with its fence) but a plough plane will do a much better job of, well, ploughing. It might also mean I can, at some point in the future, use the space currently allocated to the router plane fence for something else: that's quite a deep pocket (the fence stands upright in the router plane drawer) so the space could be quite useful.
Norsk
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Well,the side stand snapped on my old Tenere. Resulting in a comical fall before I realised what was happening.
I thought I had some pipe I could use to sleeve it ,alas I did not. I did however have a stock for a Sten Gun,behold ! The Sten-stand!
I thought I had some pipe I could use to sleeve it ,alas I did not. I did however have a stock for a Sten Gun,behold ! The Sten-stand!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- Sevenoaks, UK
Do you have the rest of the sten gun?
