Mick Annick
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- Thread starter God mode restorations
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ajlelectronics
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You really are an incredible craftsman. I don't agree that nobody would pay good money for such quality.
cheb
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I think it dates from when screws etc were made by hand.
oldbikedavey
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- London, England
Useful progress on the sand muller......
Blue Chips
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Very nice job on the screwdrivers!
When I'm working on vintage/antique stuff with straight-slot screws, I get out my sets of hollow-ground screwdriver tips/blades, which have a variety of different blade widths and thicknesses, allowing me to select a tip with a snug fit in the slot, with no tendency to 'cam out' and damage the slots. I believe I had previously posted these images of one of the sets:
Kram
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More splicing. The test from yesterday appears to be a cockup, the cover length was much tighter than the core ( possibly due to shortening as it expands for the increased width of the splice) which did not allow me to pull the second splice tight. I cheated by extracting the core to pull on between the splices, but again its 60mm too long and no way to get it back in. Shorter end is the second splice.
Then I continued with cambium saver. Using Ocean 8mm cord - much nicer stuff, for the adjustable prussik ring. I discovered that two splices on the same ring becomes very difficult to pull the second splice tight and needs care not to pull the other splice tighter - which would waste cover slack.
Still need to be lock stiched/whipped to ensure they cant work loose.
Then I continued with cambium saver. Using Ocean 8mm cord - much nicer stuff, for the adjustable prussik ring. I discovered that two splices on the same ring becomes very difficult to pull the second splice tight and needs care not to pull the other splice tighter - which would waste cover slack.
Still need to be lock stiched/whipped to ensure they cant work loose.
DennisCA
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I made new brackets for the rear bumper for my Volvo 850.
Old brackets looked like this coming off....
While I am at it I'll check out the rear portion for rust and do some maintenance.
This was the worst, seems not to be structural so for now I just cut it out and get rid of as much rust as I can.
This side has little rust but some, I have removed it, primed and applied linseed. Tomorrow once the oil has had time to soak in I'll apply bitumen based rust protection.
Fabricated new brackets today. Went with making my own because I can't buy them locally and I won't wait for shipping.
Fits on the bumper too, note threaded rod that goes through the bumper.
Primer
Then another paint layer after primer
First bracket attached. I've also brushed down the areas I soaked in oil with bitumen based rust proofing, so basically everything.
Then it started raining and I was in a hurry to mount the 2nd bracket, but it went on and I coated both brackets in more rust protection, including the bolts and threads. Now the bumper isn't sagging anymore.
Old brackets looked like this coming off....
While I am at it I'll check out the rear portion for rust and do some maintenance.
This was the worst, seems not to be structural so for now I just cut it out and get rid of as much rust as I can.
This side has little rust but some, I have removed it, primed and applied linseed. Tomorrow once the oil has had time to soak in I'll apply bitumen based rust protection.
Fabricated new brackets today. Went with making my own because I can't buy them locally and I won't wait for shipping.
Fits on the bumper too, note threaded rod that goes through the bumper.
Primer
Then another paint layer after primer
First bracket attached. I've also brushed down the areas I soaked in oil with bitumen based rust proofing, so basically everything.
Then it started raining and I was in a hurry to mount the 2nd bracket, but it went on and I coated both brackets in more rust protection, including the bolts and threads. Now the bumper isn't sagging anymore.
oldbikedavey
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Mostly, useful progress on the sand muller , the building of which has been a bit like an exercise in rock - climbing thus far.
It's getting there a bit quicker now.....
It's getting there a bit quicker now.....
ajlelectronics
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- Gloucester, England
The result of many days work. It is for an RTTY transceiver to replace an all discrete version I built in the 90s.
The intention is to make it modular, so this part will live in its own die cast box and the 34 way IDC interfacing to the rest of the modules. On board connectors and LEDs are just for development testing and will not be used once installed. $11 delivered in about ten days, for five boards so no point in Veroboarding really. The extra set of holes are in case I want or need to do any mods to it.
The breadboarded version...
The intention is to make it modular, so this part will live in its own die cast box and the 34 way IDC interfacing to the rest of the modules. On board connectors and LEDs are just for development testing and will not be used once installed. $11 delivered in about ten days, for five boards so no point in Veroboarding really. The extra set of holes are in case I want or need to do any mods to it.
The breadboarded version...
An extended sender unit.
In anticipation of spending more time in the workshop this winter, I'm installing another chinese diesel heater, but want a reasonable sized fuel tank for it, so I bought one of the generic 20 litre tanks of eBay.
However, the sender unit comes with, leaves quite a "substantial" reserve -
So new bit piano wire, some time with a pair of pliers, and we now have this-
Could have done with a bit longer piano wire, but it's much improved, and will let me have a better idea of how much fuel is left in the tank, via the Afterburner controller.
In anticipation of spending more time in the workshop this winter, I'm installing another chinese diesel heater, but want a reasonable sized fuel tank for it, so I bought one of the generic 20 litre tanks of eBay.
However, the sender unit comes with, leaves quite a "substantial" reserve -
So new bit piano wire, some time with a pair of pliers, and we now have this-
Could have done with a bit longer piano wire, but it's much improved, and will let me have a better idea of how much fuel is left in the tank, via the Afterburner controller.
What printer was that?Not made, but just been playing with a label printer I got a while ago, but have only just unboxed. A test print, which I'm very tempted to stick on the outside of my flat door.
View attachment 469807
Kram
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- Sussex
Deadwood on a medium sized oak for a friend. I got to test the cambium saver that I'd only just finished with lock stitching an hour or so before 
Also good excuse to use a newish rope that I generally dont want to get dirty or frayed from bark friction.
Unsure about this limb. The dead wood can knly be adding weight, I want to trim the dead out so that it can callous over better.
Also good excuse to use a newish rope that I generally dont want to get dirty or frayed from bark friction.
Unsure about this limb. The dead wood can knly be adding weight, I want to trim the dead out so that it can callous over better.
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ajlelectronics
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Of course there is a fly in the ointment... I have just realised that the CAD program defaults to 0603. I default to 1206 but the CAD won. Now I have to ignore my sufficient stock of resistors and order some in 0603. I knew that I shouldn't have submitted the order yet.
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
You've a great eye.
I'd have spent twice as long getting the proportion just so slightly off, as would have most of us on here if we are honest.
It's the difference between craft and art.
That thought had crossed my mind.
I'll find out when I get around to testing it.
Alternative is to modify the tank to take one of the vertical sender units.
sardine
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- Buckinghamshire
When can you come round and fix all my electronic stuff ?
