Blobber
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- 3,270
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- lincolnshire
They must be big rats!
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Stueeee
Old git
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- 1,084
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- N W Kent
The taper roller carrier bearings need to be preloaded, depends on the axle but it's usually about .015" or .4 ish mm in new money. Other axles, Toyota, English Ford, US Ford 8" & 9" etc. have screwed collars that make applying the preload & adjusting engagement depth etc. a much simpler job.
Blobber
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- lincolnshire
The last 4HA that I had done was sorted by a guy up a mountain in Wales somewhere, a supposed specialist...
Nice to know there is someone a bit more local
Wildefalcon
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- 2,545
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- Gloucestershire, England
Preloads the bearings.
Stueeee
Old git
- Messages
- 1,084
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- N W Kent
Dana 60, I should have spotted the huge bolts on the crownwheel. A proper chunky axle, I narrowed one once, bloody axle tubes were more than 3/8" wall thickness.
Wildefalcon
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- 2,545
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- Gloucestershire, England
It's the rear axle from a Landrover one tonne. The second ugliest Landrover. Mine's a rapier anti aircraft gun tractor, spent most of its life on the West German border defending against the Soviets.
magnet
Member
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- 1,419
A copy of a crutch. A lot of what I do at work are copies of exsisting appliances. Generally the people who rely on these things don't take to change too well. So copying things accurately is a must.
This is as far as I take it. It then moves on to have the leather work done.
This is as far as I take it. It then moves on to have the leather work done.
So here’s the almost complete riverside fencing I made and installed along the wye in the centre of Hereford by the old wye bridge,which is sandstone and 530 years old.
The spindles pass through the top rail at 6degrees,luckily there was enough tolerance in the holes I punched,blunt forged tops in 20 square,the distant 9’ section is removable for maintenance and flood debris removal,which happened in 2020,running at about 19’ above normal(?),summer heights.
The 3 curved restraints are forged from 30 square .
The caps on the posts were fabricated from 3 x 10mm plates,mitred,then ground concave and recut at 6 degrees,then the DC iron finials were screwed on top ,into the posts with an m12 stud.
Just have to quote for another 22m now!
The spindles pass through the top rail at 6degrees,luckily there was enough tolerance in the holes I punched,blunt forged tops in 20 square,the distant 9’ section is removable for maintenance and flood debris removal,which happened in 2020,running at about 19’ above normal(?),summer heights.
The 3 curved restraints are forged from 30 square .
The caps on the posts were fabricated from 3 x 10mm plates,mitred,then ground concave and recut at 6 degrees,then the DC iron finials were screwed on top ,into the posts with an m12 stud.
Just have to quote for another 22m now!
blackolive (Ste)
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- 1,346
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- Chorley
The best inventions involve alkathene pipe and baler twine 
Pond frog
Member
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- 501
- Location
- Warwickshire uk
V
very nice job you’ve done, I like the spindles are put in diamond not square
MattF
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- South Yorkshire
Dr.Al
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- 2,556
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- Gloucestershire, UK
A little organiser tray (out of 0.8 mm steel sheet) for the top of the lathe headstock so that I can dump stuff there without any risk of it falling, either onto the spinning chuck or down the back.
Considering that it has been a very long time since I last did any thin tiggery, I was quite pleased with how it went:
Raising the height of the headstock rim also meant that I needed to extend my chuck key and cam-lock key, which had the added advantage of it making me pull my finger out and adding a grub screw to lock the cross-bar in place (the old chuck key used to lose it's cross bar for a hobby). Extending them was a case of trimming them down to get rid of the area around the old cross bars, then turning a bit of EN8 to act as an extension and then welding the bits together.
(Photo for the purposes of showing both keys at the same time: I obviously wouldn't use them both at the same time like that!)
Considering that it has been a very long time since I last did any thin tiggery, I was quite pleased with how it went:
Raising the height of the headstock rim also meant that I needed to extend my chuck key and cam-lock key, which had the added advantage of it making me pull my finger out and adding a grub screw to lock the cross-bar in place (the old chuck key used to lose it's cross bar for a hobby). Extending them was a case of trimming them down to get rid of the area around the old cross bars, then turning a bit of EN8 to act as an extension and then welding the bits together.
(Photo for the purposes of showing both keys at the same time: I obviously wouldn't use them both at the same time like that!)
It's an absolutely filthy horrible day here in West Wales.... so a day tinkering in the shed.
Fitted a new rear tyre & head bearings onto my MTB (hoping for better weather tomorrow), plus fixed punctures on OH's bikes.
Then, rummaging I found some short sections of unistrut, angle brackets & zebedee, so decided to use them to bolt up a table for using on my 6x4 bandsaw as a vertical saw (been on the to-do list for ages).
It sits on the saw bed & Clamps in the vice, & the front of the small 6mm plate is bolted to the unistrut frame and sits on the rear bearing/blade guide with it fully extended.
It's only made out of bits I had, and it's not the prettiest thing.... but its sturdy & looks like it'll work OK.
Fitted a new rear tyre & head bearings onto my MTB (hoping for better weather tomorrow), plus fixed punctures on OH's bikes.
Then, rummaging I found some short sections of unistrut, angle brackets & zebedee, so decided to use them to bolt up a table for using on my 6x4 bandsaw as a vertical saw (been on the to-do list for ages).
It sits on the saw bed & Clamps in the vice, & the front of the small 6mm plate is bolted to the unistrut frame and sits on the rear bearing/blade guide with it fully extended.
It's only made out of bits I had, and it's not the prettiest thing.... but its sturdy & looks like it'll work OK.
Now made a couple of holes. Better do some invisible mending before the wife returns home.
I'm not saying my Mrs isn't very observant, but I reckon I could drill enough holes to make this place look like a Swiss cheese and it would still be months before she noticed.
In fact I'm pretty sure it would take her a couple of weeks to notice if I didn't come back in from the shed. That's true love for you (or something).
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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Made a screw, because a 5.5mm X40tpi is not readily available, took me about thirty mins but a lifetime to accumulate all of the tooling to make such a thing, 4mm hex:
As you can see, I had to drill the original out.
As you can see, I had to drill the original out.
A lifetime is a long time to be fixing something..
