eLuSiVeMiTe
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That would be me with my own kitchen. Anywhere near Milton Keynes?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Kram
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I wasnt haply with the crumbly mortar, cracked cement and big loose chunks exposing several layers of DPC so, before I go further I gave it a good clean, vacuum, primed in sbr and then used up an old 4kg bag of leveller. It wont be seen, quite happy as I spent only 30 minutes on it!
Gragson
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Yeah I bet you got warm doing all that !
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Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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- Keeler crater
A pair of the quickest, easiest, lowest profile curtain pole brackets I could come up with. Turned on each end of some 40mm delrin, over to the mill to take off half the protruding section, then back to the lathe to part off.
I don't want to hear "i WoulD hAvE jUsT 3d pRiNtEd tHeM"
I don't want to hear "i WoulD hAvE jUsT 3d pRiNtEd tHeM"
Dr.Al
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Lots of bits:
All extremely precisely sized to suit the material I had in the scrap bin
Having acquired a couple of router planes a few days ago, I wasn't looking forward to sorting out the cutters that came with them, all of which were very wonky (only one corner of the cutter touching down when lowered onto a flat surface). It's not that hard to do by hand, but I had four of them to do and decided to have a go at making a simple jig. This is what I came up with:
Depending on the angle it's set to, it can either be used for hollow grinding the bottom (which can then be quickly sharpened on a stone):
Or it can be used for flat grinding the bevel:
Works like a charm.
All extremely precisely sized to suit the material I had in the scrap bin
Having acquired a couple of router planes a few days ago, I wasn't looking forward to sorting out the cutters that came with them, all of which were very wonky (only one corner of the cutter touching down when lowered onto a flat surface). It's not that hard to do by hand, but I had four of them to do and decided to have a go at making a simple jig. This is what I came up with:
Depending on the angle it's set to, it can either be used for hollow grinding the bottom (which can then be quickly sharpened on a stone):
Or it can be used for flat grinding the bevel:
Works like a charm.
I get that a lot from some people at work . . . the choice between 14 hrs of a printer that might, or might not, print something that's nearly to the dimensions, nearly round, nearly square, not even near to being as strong . . . or someon machining something in next to no time that does exactly what you want it to do . . .I don't want to hear "i WoulD hAvE jUsT 3d pRiNtEd tHeM"
MattF
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It's been a ballache to make the ¼" hex in these, but got there eventually.
6.5mm hole, & then used this to make the hex.
They're holders for the 18V flexiclick heads. Can't use the same method as I did for the 12V heads, as there's no flange/step, so went with these for the drive hex on the heads to slot into.
They've taken a lot longer to make than I hoped/expected, but they're made now.
6.5mm hole, & then used this to make the hex.
They're holders for the 18V flexiclick heads. Can't use the same method as I did for the 12V heads, as there's no flange/step, so went with these for the drive hex on the heads to slot into.
They've taken a lot longer to make than I hoped/expected, but they're made now.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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Am I missing something, why not just drill 7mm or so to clear the points on the hex?
MattF
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Tried that first off. Not as secure a grip as I'd like.
Besides, where's the fun in doing something that simply?
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I made a clamp to join the flue pipe on a new to me stove.
This one has a boiler that can be used with a pressurised system so thought I'd give it a go.
The welding on it is atrocious but that's for another thread (and I forgot to take photos)
It requires a few more bends than the old one and as I don't like the thin vitreous enamel pipes bends I used 5 inch 1/4 inch wall steel pipe that I had kicking about.
Decided to put a joint in it so I could remove the lower section for cleaning and so it wouldn't be so dam heavy.
Old stove had a rear connection.
New one has a top connection which requires another 3inch kink.
I could have made the step where it went through the wall but that would have been impossible to get into my wee bandsaw so harder to get just right.
Instead I decided to make a join about here.
Started with the same 5 inch pipe.
Cut a slice in half and beat it to shape on my LAMBCO ™ number two anvil. (The photo reminds me, I really need to get it properly fitted to stump and give it a coat of something to stop it rusting.)
Then clamped it around the pipe with some 0.8 mm steel packers to give a bit of space and cut a filler piece to size.
For the clamp I welded a small piece of thin stainless to the inside of the pipe with 309 rod so it would overlap the split in the clamp.
Then drilled some flat bar for m8 bolts and tapped one side so I could expand the clamp for easy installation and removal and welded it together.
Ground the inside welds flush and this part of the job is done.
This one has a boiler that can be used with a pressurised system so thought I'd give it a go.
The welding on it is atrocious but that's for another thread (and I forgot to take photos)
It requires a few more bends than the old one and as I don't like the thin vitreous enamel pipes bends I used 5 inch 1/4 inch wall steel pipe that I had kicking about.
Decided to put a joint in it so I could remove the lower section for cleaning and so it wouldn't be so dam heavy.
Old stove had a rear connection.
New one has a top connection which requires another 3inch kink.
I could have made the step where it went through the wall but that would have been impossible to get into my wee bandsaw so harder to get just right.
Instead I decided to make a join about here.
Started with the same 5 inch pipe.
Cut a slice in half and beat it to shape on my LAMBCO ™ number two anvil. (The photo reminds me, I really need to get it properly fitted to stump and give it a coat of something to stop it rusting.)
Then clamped it around the pipe with some 0.8 mm steel packers to give a bit of space and cut a filler piece to size.
For the clamp I welded a small piece of thin stainless to the inside of the pipe with 309 rod so it would overlap the split in the clamp.
Then drilled some flat bar for m8 bolts and tapped one side so I could expand the clamp for easy installation and removal and welded it together.
Ground the inside welds flush and this part of the job is done.
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Tried that first off. Not as secure a grip as I'd like.
Besides, where's the fun in doing something that simply?
I can relate to that.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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MattF
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To expand on the ballache part, creating the hex was easy. Getting it to a suitable fit stage, however, was the prolonged part. That "broach" is obviously mainly displacing, rather than cutting, & all hex shanks aren't created equal. Some are a slip fit, some are an overly snug fit, so getting it to the stage where the heads shank slid in, rather than requiring it to be forced in, took a while.
I tested them with various bits/shanks occasionally, and there is notable, (although minute), variation between various ¼" shank diameters.
MattF
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Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Very nice, they would go well with my 57-ELSs
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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- Manchester UK
The problem with the electrostatics are their sixe, Me had just been refurbed by One Thing Audio and I gave them away.
