- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
I'm sloshing ye older original Coal Tar Creosote over it all (outbuilding so the smell isn't an issue.
As I understand it, no creepy-crawlies can tolerate the stuff.
(I've been cutting into the timber today to replace rotten Purlin ends & roof ridge - and while there are woodworm larvae exit holes all over the place - no sign of any critters).
I'm useless at identifying wood, I haven't a clue tbh - but I suspect the rafters are Oak.... as despite woodworm and some obvious surface rot - the majority of the purlins where I've cut into them (& the roof ridge) is chuffing hard, dense timber....which is good!
The Purlins are 90mm x 80mm (3.5" x 3" ish) - so I went to the local timber merchants first thing & got 2 x 2.4M 100mm x 100mm Tanalised Fence Posts ripped down to 80x90 to remake the ends where they exit the wall.
I've cut "L" shaped overlaps halfway through the stone wall onto sound wood, and added new sections today using the aforementioned ripped fence posts.
Tomorrow's task if the weather is OK- is to replace the 2 vertical rafters (with some more timber bridging my joints for belt & braces overkill, replace the stonework round the purlins with some cement, run a new section of Purlin out under the hip roof & replace another rafter
That just leaves
- replace the entire wallplate
- Membrane the elevation
- batten & slate
(And the other side needs the same after that - but I think I'll have had enough for a bit by then
).
The fun will start when I get to battening & re-slating - as I've never laid a roof before
.A bit of Google & YouTube & "give it a go" is the vague plan!
(The way they were laid isn't how they tell you to currently either I think? The old slates were nailed not only near the centre of the slate on a batten.... but also nailed through the top of the slate to the batten above as well. So - while keeping the same batten gauge keeps the slates looking the same as the rest of the roof - I admit I'm not quite sure how it's all going to work out and work atm?
If I alter the gauge to lay slates by the method I've seen while researching.... then I think my slates won't be aligned with the ones this hip roof goes into... & that might make it look wrong.
Right now I'm not quite sure how to go about it
)Wildefalcon
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Not sure if this is fixed, but as part of the goods wagon conversion I wanted to move an old oak water barrel. It has a leak and so I decided to try to fix it using a Lidl plug and dowel set, and some old old oak off cuts. I'll let this set and see if its cured the leak.
indy4x
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Sorted the jockey wheel off my trailer
Bearing had decided to give up probably a few years ago as its never been great and the jockey wheel 'leg' or whatever it's called wasn't straight, again, it was like that when I bought the trailer
Jockey wheel is not a cheap one, it's what Indespension supplied with my 2.7T trailer when it was new
Tried using my hydraulic press to get it straight but no, OA got it red hot and straightened it with some hand pressure
Next problem was the seat for the bearing was bent, used the lathe to cut off the old one, turn up a replacement from my scrap pile and then weld it onto the threaded shaft with a couple or 4 tacks ( this is 2× more than what was on it from new)
Back in the lathe to true it up
All back together and working like it should
It does however deserve a new wheel, that one has seen better days but it can wait for now
Bearing had decided to give up probably a few years ago as its never been great and the jockey wheel 'leg' or whatever it's called wasn't straight, again, it was like that when I bought the trailer
Jockey wheel is not a cheap one, it's what Indespension supplied with my 2.7T trailer when it was new
Tried using my hydraulic press to get it straight but no, OA got it red hot and straightened it with some hand pressure
Next problem was the seat for the bearing was bent, used the lathe to cut off the old one, turn up a replacement from my scrap pile and then weld it onto the threaded shaft with a couple or 4 tacks ( this is 2× more than what was on it from new)
Back in the lathe to true it up
All back together and working like it should
It does however deserve a new wheel, that one has seen better days but it can wait for now
qwakers
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- cornwall, united kingdom
stainless trims round the ramps sorted, lights re attached... its getting there....lots of filler work, another coat of primer and some raptor later....
and the final piece of aluminium fitted.
bit of trim work around the ramp holes on sunday then job done
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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Helped my partner do the clutch hydraulics on her MX5...
It had a new clutch fitted last week, and then with the full thickness of friction material reinstated it started not fully disengaging.
Watching the slave cylinder with a ruler whilst she partner held the pedal down it was creeping back slowly so we ordered a rebuild kit for the master, new stainless braided flexi, and a new slave.
The seals in the master and slave were both severely worn, although only the master was bypassing fluid (hence the issue).
The flexi was probably fine, but as we were changing everything else might as well get it now...
Pig to change working from the ground though, it was the first really horribly awkward job my partner has faced with doing her own repairs, and she asked unprompted:
"When we're moved, do you think we should get a lift for the cars put in? I think it would actually be quite sensible really."
So double success really...
However did find some suspicious rust on one of the front cills, so will be assessing that on wednesday to determine if it needs doing before MOT, or if we can hold off until I can just fully replace both.
It had a new clutch fitted last week, and then with the full thickness of friction material reinstated it started not fully disengaging.
Watching the slave cylinder with a ruler whilst she partner held the pedal down it was creeping back slowly so we ordered a rebuild kit for the master, new stainless braided flexi, and a new slave.
The seals in the master and slave were both severely worn, although only the master was bypassing fluid (hence the issue).
The flexi was probably fine, but as we were changing everything else might as well get it now...
Pig to change working from the ground though, it was the first really horribly awkward job my partner has faced with doing her own repairs, and she asked unprompted:
"When we're moved, do you think we should get a lift for the cars put in? I think it would actually be quite sensible really."
So double success really...
However did find some suspicious rust on one of the front cills, so will be assessing that on wednesday to determine if it needs doing before MOT, or if we can hold off until I can just fully replace both.
RobCox
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- Cambridge, UK
The little slider that operates the light on our Zanussi cooker hood broke yesterday:
So now you can't turn the light off. I found a replacement assembly on the web, no individual slides though:
Looks like a bargain to me
. So, I set about milling one from a scrap piece of delrin. Two hours later, jobs a goodun:
So now you can't turn the light off. I found a replacement assembly on the web, no individual slides though:
Looks like a bargain to me
. So, I set about milling one from a scrap piece of delrin. Two hours later, jobs a goodun:Sorting the failed seam sealer on my Lancia door today - involved stripping and then removing the door.
Which then revealed the glass support channel on the lifter - which on 2/3 of it looks as good as the day in Turin it was fitted . . . the other bit looks everyone of it's 34 yrs . . . Annoyingly I think I skipped a door glass in my mum's loft last year, thinking it was out of a Renault11 . . but I have a feeling it was out of a Lancia. Hopefully the ten quid Fiat one ebay just found is close enough - or it will be once I get hold of it
And fitted new lenses into my Sarengeti sunglasses - much to my annoyance, the lenses gained some crazing a couple of years ago, as though I'd cleaned them with something nasty. Some interneting revealed I wasn't the only owner to find the same. Roll on a couple of years, and I found a company in Australia doing replacement lenses - they arrived in a week, now fitted, now see-through again.
Which then revealed the glass support channel on the lifter - which on 2/3 of it looks as good as the day in Turin it was fitted . . . the other bit looks everyone of it's 34 yrs . . . Annoyingly I think I skipped a door glass in my mum's loft last year, thinking it was out of a Renault11 . . but I have a feeling it was out of a Lancia. Hopefully the ten quid Fiat one ebay just found is close enough - or it will be once I get hold of it
And fitted new lenses into my Sarengeti sunglasses - much to my annoyance, the lenses gained some crazing a couple of years ago, as though I'd cleaned them with something nasty. Some interneting revealed I wasn't the only owner to find the same. Roll on a couple of years, and I found a company in Australia doing replacement lenses - they arrived in a week, now fitted, now see-through again.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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Sorted out the MX5 cill tonight.
I suggest everyone takes a seat before reading the next sentence...
The rust was substantially less severe than expected!!!
When cleaned up back to bare metal the suspicious area had a hole the size of my thumbnail, looking inside with the bore-o-scope, no major internal rust either!!!
15 minute job to patch it and grind back, couldn't have been luckier with that.
There were several areas of superficial rust too on the chassis, all the areas with rust seem to come from unsympathetic use of 2-post lifts or jacks (and not in places I would usually jack the car for that exact reason).
I chased the underbody sealant back from all the rust patches until I got to clean metal with a scotch rite type stripping disk, then feathered the edges.
Everything got two coats of rust converter, two coats of zinc primer, and a thick coat of stone chip blended I to the original underbody sealant where it's still solid. I will add brush on underbody sealant in the morning.
All in all, it appears that rather than finding a big nasty problem we have caught it in the nick of time, and doing a proper job now probably heads off major rust issues for several more years.
Once the landy is back on the road next summer, we are considering having it CO2 blasted, preemptively doing any welding that might crop up in future, and then having it professionally re-coated underneath and the hollow sections injected.
Given it's a 23 year old car notorious for rust issues, that's been daily driven around farms for the past 5 years... I am astounded how well it's held up, largely testament to how little use the original owner gave it I suspect.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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An odd box came my way.
Turns out it is a GPO Resistance Box.
Not much wrong with it.
But a few resistors link wires had failed.
The box, external polish was good, but just needed a wipe with a "Meths" dampened cloth to restore it.
Now all working nd set to be used.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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This Alladin Blue flame T16 heater came my way. I git it for spares, but it could not yield the parts I needed, as i hoped. But it was complete.
Good warnings to follow.
It has not traveled far.
This is a common issue.
A seized, rotten wick. DO NOT FORCE THE ADJUSTER.
Soak the wick in warm soapy water. Start by tearing it down and easing it out.
Clean all the parts up. So no pattern remains.
New wick.
Adjust to a blue flame.
I even found a replacement handle
Good warnings to follow.
It has not traveled far.
This is a common issue.
A seized, rotten wick. DO NOT FORCE THE ADJUSTER.
Soak the wick in warm soapy water. Start by tearing it down and easing it out.
Clean all the parts up. So no pattern remains.
New wick.
Adjust to a blue flame.
I even found a replacement handle
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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- Sheffield, UK
MOT passed and congratulated on "a real tidy job of that cill mate" by the tester.
The Mazda's "one careful lady owner" is very much enjoying the decision to switch to a comp brake twin friction clutch...
She immediately discovered that gunning the engine like it's still got a worn OEM friction plate now results in a very rapid launch indeed, which increased her smiles to the gallon substantially.
I can still smell that from 60 years ago!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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I could bottle it and send it to pointy head land.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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i got this the other day, I liked the old school look and use.
Old School Valve seat cutter.
It is mostly there, the manufacture has gone out of business, shame.
Rust was the issue. the hinges were the worst.
but spots of rust had got onto the working parts.
Making disassembly difficult.
The Felt and the flock had suffered.
The main body was striped, cleaned, rust removed with care. Then assembled.
To keep as many parts safe as possible
Old School Valve seat cutter.
It is mostly there, the manufacture has gone out of business, shame.
Rust was the issue. the hinges were the worst.
but spots of rust had got onto the working parts.
Making disassembly difficult.
The Felt and the flock had suffered.
The main body was striped, cleaned, rust removed with care. Then assembled.
To keep as many parts safe as possible
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Part 2.
Frost Blackening kit is good, but follow the instructions.
The box was cleaned using "Meths" and 00000 wire wool.
You want to remove the dirt. But also move it around to keep the old look.
New Blaze and fock applied by a good friend.
The black parts all went through the frost kit.
Then a good wax was applied.
The fixings holes in the box had a soft wax inserted, so as the items move the keep a wax finish.
Frost Blackening kit is good, but follow the instructions.
The box was cleaned using "Meths" and 00000 wire wool.
You want to remove the dirt. But also move it around to keep the old look.
New Blaze and fock applied by a good friend.
The black parts all went through the frost kit.
Then a good wax was applied.
The fixings holes in the box had a soft wax inserted, so as the items move the keep a wax finish.
Nice old tool but what do you do with stuff like that?
Do you sell it on to a collector?
ajlelectronics
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- Gloucester, England
Cut valve seats perhaps?
