Stuff you have fixed today

[pedrobedro]

My compressor was blowing air out if I stopped it before it got up to pressure and I was getting a bit annoyed with it. I stripped the non return valve and found the spring in it was broken. I stretched the spring that was left and refitted it and it worked perfectly, happy day.

 

[JMS1972]

Whilst looking through the electronics cabinet of my new Denford Novaturn lathe I noticed a bit of melting going on

The common supply pin for the output pins didn't look happy.

Underside looks worse big blister where an internal trace has vaporised.

This was connected to an octal Darlington driver on a daughter board but I traced it to where it came through the 96 way connector.

There was 140 ohms resistance from driver to output pin. Made up of charcoaled FR4!

I scraped out the black stuff and connection was lost.

A bit of single core wire was used to make the connection it needs to handle 4Amps max as the Darlington can do 500mA per channel so it's a bit chunkier than the usual wirewrap type.

Copious amounts of super glue were added to give the pin some support.

Electrically the dead track is fixed. I'll connect it up tomorrow and see if the Darlington needs replacing too, or if there's anything important where the blister is....

 

[Keithmac]

Did a Truimph Trophy SE major service this week, what a pig of a job!.

All the valves needed shimming so at least it was worth the time getting in there.

You do wonder some times if the designers go out of their way to make the mechanics lives more difficult..

Single piece cam carrier as well so slow and steady wins the race..

 

[JMS1972]

Whilst looking through the electronics cabinet of my new Denford Novaturn lathe I noticed a bit of melting going on

View attachment 450499

The common supply pin for the output pins didn't look happy.
View attachment 450500
Underside looks worse big blister where an internal trace has vaporised.

This was connected to an octal Darlington driver on a daughter board but I traced it to where it came through the 96 way connector.
View attachment 450501

There was 140 ohms resistance from driver to output pin. Made up of charcoaled FR4!

I scraped out the black stuff and connection was lost.

View attachment 450502

A bit of single core wire was used to make the connection it needs to handle 4Amps max as the Darlington can do 500mA per channel so it's a bit chunkier than the usual wirewrap type.

View attachment 450503

Copious amounts of super glue were added to give the pin some support.

Electrically the dead track is fixed. I'll connect it up tomorrow and see if the Darlington needs replacing too, or if there's anything important where the blister is....

So after a bit more testing today it would appear the Power Darlington has had an unexpected thermal event in the past, shorting everything to ground - okay for the the outputs not so good for the pin I fixed as that is connected to +24V with no fuse. (It's just a path for the back EMF protection to +ve.)

Not quite sure why the ULN2083A died it's driving two relays. It's not socketed either unlike the one in the main board

 

[JMS1972]

Another fix this time on the Novamill, the plastic cover had been expertly "repaired" at a University

The tape surprisingly was really not doing a good job so a few brackets from middle of Lidl and some left over soft top window repair tape et voilà....

Looks a little bit better

 

[Brad93]

Another fix this time on the Novamill, the plastic cover had been expertly "repaired" at a University
View attachment 450523

The tape surprisingly was really not doing a good job so a few brackets from middle of Lidl and some left over soft top window repair tape et voilà....

View attachment 450524
Looks a little bit better

View attachment 450525

Arguably do you need an enclosure in a home workshop environment, it's surely designed to keep silly students fingers away.
Looks like a flimsy pain in the butt to me

 

[JMS1972]

Arguably do you need an enclosure in a home workshop environment, it's surely designed to keep silly students fingers away.
Looks like a flimsy pain in the butt to me

I've already disabled the safety interlock so I can open it at any time.



Might keep it to contain chips but it does interfere with access to the drawbar so so may get binned later on.

 

[brewdexta]

I spent an hour on the Kawasaki Mule this morning, removing all the tracker stuff that the council had installed. First I had to get the glovebox out to get to a switch and a second ignition style switch. This proved harder than I envisaged. I had to get to this screw out else take the whole front off the Mule. It's a tight squeeze.

The philips bit was in this marvelous little ratchet, rarely used but worth its weight in gold when it's needed.

All the tat is now out and the Mule still starts.

I'll reinstall a 12v socket as per factory where they put the second ignition style switch.

I have pile of Lark & Lark bedroom furniture to assemble and fit before I can get back to it

 

[JMS1972]

Whilst looking through the electronics cabinet of my new Denford Novaturn lathe I noticed a bit of melting going on

View attachment 450499

The common supply pin for the output pins didn't look happy.
View attachment 450500
Underside looks worse big blister where an internal trace has vaporised.

This was connected to an octal Darlington driver on a daughter board but I traced it to where it came through the 96 way connector.
View attachment 450501

There was 140 ohms resistance from driver to output pin. Made up of charcoaled FR4!

I scraped out the black stuff and connection was lost.

View attachment 450502

A bit of single core wire was used to make the connection it needs to handle 4Amps max as the Darlington can do 500mA per channel so it's a bit chunkier than the usual wirewrap type.

View attachment 450503

Copious amounts of super glue were added to give the pin some support.

Electrically the dead track is fixed. I'll connect it up tomorrow and see if the Darlington needs replacing too, or if there's anything important where the blister is....

So after deciding the Darlington chip was FUBAR I ordered a set of 3 from the Bay or Evil. Might be a consumable! Time remove the old one.

Older versions of the board have this chip socketed but obviously you make more money selling a replacement board!

Easiest way to remove is cut the legs off and remove them one by one.

I came up with a technique to quickly remove the pins. I heated them up with the soldering iron and then squeezed the tip and pin together with needle nose pliers whilst pulling the lot away from the board.

I then used a solder sucker to remove the remaining solder. And then soldered a new socket.

Managed a nice neat job with no lifted pads

An old board donated it's chip for the time being until replacements turn up.

Popped in the lathe cabinet and now the tool changer stops at the home position instead of constantly turning

TBXX are the tool position bit relays and the four on right control main functions. TPFR (tool changer) and SGR (Spindle) are not powered which is correct hurrah!

 

[Guzrik]

Got a new pull cord for my lawnmower, unfortunately it was rather short and to save the length I crimped a tube on the ends in stead of a knott.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Cast iron table frames, pulled from a house clearance skip.

I had them blasted as part of a MIS job, the plan was to use them as MIS project. But it did not get funding.
To many other projects on the go.

I used some left over metal paint.

Assorted hard wood cut to size and given a good covering of oil and wax.

The design is odd, as a neighbour wanted it this way.

 

[Smouser]

Not so much a fix, more like a war on moss!

I got my 5l pressure sprayer out filled it with a bleach and water mix and sprayed a test area on my garage roof.

However, one treatment was not enough. This is how it looked after I sprayed it 3 times.

I needed something stronger.

I bought some sodium hypochlorite 14-15%, modified my pressure sprayer by extending the hose, practised my ladder balancing and then sprayed the whole roof.

There are a few stubborn bits. I hope they have all died and will fall off/wash off when it rains.

While I like the outcome, it took ages and I wonder if the juice was worth the squeeze.

 

[dobbslc]

That's impressive!

 

[500e]

Saw a you tube the guy sprayed it after cleaning with a moss killer, started at the bottom and worked up, said over the years he found it more effective that way.
Does look good though

 

[Brad93]

Pal of mine does this for a living and also uses hypo.

It gets better and better as time goes on up till about 3 months after treatment.

Lichen takes about 2-3 years before it starts growing back.

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

Mate had it done...they just sprayed a product on and it just all came off with the rain.

Need to filter the gutters!!...and wear a mask if you're jet washing it as there's all sorts up there I reckon.

 

[Seadog]

Urine is, supposedly, very effective.

 

[Smouser]

Mate had it done...they just sprayed a product on and it just all came off with the rain.

Need to filter the gutters!!...and wear a mask if you're jet washing it as there's all sorts up there I reckon.

I cleaned the gutter a few days later. The downpipe was completely blocked with moss (it might have been blocked for a while though).

Urine is, supposedly, very effective.

That is a lot of drinking and standing on the roof relieving myself.....

 

[pedrobedro]

Urine is, supposedly, very effective.

Are you taking the p!$$ Tools to Go does some stuff called Crikey Mikey that looks like it should do the job.

 

[Smouser]

Are you taking the p!$$ Tools to Go does some stuff called Crikey Mikey that looks like it should do the job.

That could work too I guess.

However, the pump sprayer @ Screwfix was around £15 when I bought it a couple of years ago if I remember correctly + 4 x 5 liter sodium hydrochloride was £37 including delivery from Liquipak.

The extra hose I had lying around (think it came with some cheap air tools).

For the sum of £52 you can start a moss war!