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There were suspicions of that happening with a VAX computer installed at a Ford plant in the 80's, it needed an (expensive) engineer call-out every few months.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
There were suspicions of that happening with a VAX computer installed at a Ford plant in the 80's, it needed an (expensive) engineer call-out every few months.
It's taken a few weeks, but I've started fixing this mess.
That's a 5 year old kitchen end panel from the supplier that advertises themselves as the UK's No1 kitchen retailer, and whilst that ones really bad, all of the doors and panels have delamination to some degree.
I'd normally be blinking annoyed about these failing so soon. But, as I've had almost the entire cost of the kitchen refunded due to supplier errors and mistakes, I'm not complaining (as much).
I've tried resticking them before, but the laminate appears to be slightly shrunk on, so you end up with gaps, and it never fully comes off either, so getting it stuck back down properly never works.
So, in a first step to putting it right, I got some paint matched in the same colour (costly, and I had my doubts on how good a match it would be), and as a bit of a trial run I made a couple of new panels from a sheet of MDF which was knocking around.
Handily, these ones go down the side of the washing machine, so that seemed like a good place to see what was achievable, without it being obvious if my efforts were a disaster.
Which today finally got fitted.
I'm pretty pleased with that. In fact I know they're not the originals, but I still can't tell the difference (excuse the rubbish photo). Credit where its due to the paint shop guy. That's the most I've ever spent on a tin of paint, but it went on beautifully (sprayed with a Wagner FLEXiO electric spray gun), and the colour match is spot on, plus there's enough left to do the rest of the house, so it was well worth it in my book.
Now I know what's achievable, my plan is to wait until the others unstick themselves a bit more (which they will!) and then try removing any remaining laminate and reusing the door blanks to save making new, and if I can't get a decent finish on them, I'll just make replacements as above.
That's a 5 year old kitchen end panel from the supplier that advertises themselves as the UK's No1 kitchen retailer, and whilst that ones really bad, all of the doors and panels have delamination to some degree.
I'd normally be blinking annoyed about these failing so soon. But, as I've had almost the entire cost of the kitchen refunded due to supplier errors and mistakes, I'm not complaining (as much).
I've tried resticking them before, but the laminate appears to be slightly shrunk on, so you end up with gaps, and it never fully comes off either, so getting it stuck back down properly never works.
So, in a first step to putting it right, I got some paint matched in the same colour (costly, and I had my doubts on how good a match it would be), and as a bit of a trial run I made a couple of new panels from a sheet of MDF which was knocking around.
Handily, these ones go down the side of the washing machine, so that seemed like a good place to see what was achievable, without it being obvious if my efforts were a disaster.
Which today finally got fitted.
I'm pretty pleased with that. In fact I know they're not the originals, but I still can't tell the difference (excuse the rubbish photo). Credit where its due to the paint shop guy. That's the most I've ever spent on a tin of paint, but it went on beautifully (sprayed with a Wagner FLEXiO electric spray gun), and the colour match is spot on, plus there's enough left to do the rest of the house, so it was well worth it in my book.
Now I know what's achievable, my plan is to wait until the others unstick themselves a bit more (which they will!) and then try removing any remaining laminate and reusing the door blanks to save making new, and if I can't get a decent finish on them, I'll just make replacements as above.
This afternoon I have been mostly replacing this......
In case your dirty copper washer recognition skills aren't up to speed, that's the No1 Injector sealing washer thing out of my camper van.
Which has been replaced because for reasons known only to themselves and the god of nuts and bolts, the injector securing nuts decided to come undone on the M3 the other day!
All the others are tight as a tight thing, so I've no idea why they felt the need to come undone.
In case your dirty copper washer recognition skills aren't up to speed, that's the No1 Injector sealing washer thing out of my camper van.
Which has been replaced because for reasons known only to themselves and the god of nuts and bolts, the injector securing nuts decided to come undone on the M3 the other day!
All the others are tight as a tight thing, so I've no idea why they felt the need to come undone.
droopsnoot
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^ I've got a battery charger like that, I'll have to have a look at it.
My Beaver Partsmaster CNC Mill is back working 
It all started when I realised that the Parameter Backup buffer batteries were overdue a change by a couple of months - probably not an issue as I have hard copies - but I usually religiously change them every 12 months.
This has to be done with the machine powered up so the power supplies can retain the memory as you take the batteries out for replacement - fairly standard on CNC machine. Well the machine controller (Heidenhain TNC355) refused to go live - blank screen - nothing. Eventually I traced this to the reset signal from the power supply holding it stopped as the -12v and -15v rails were missing.
Hens teeth of course so priced according - best I could find was 850 Euros and lots of shipping.
Time to try and fix it! First I set up a three cell battery pack to supply the 4.5 volts for the parameter ram:
Power supply extracted from the controller:
A bit of poking about with meter and 'scope and I found a high current fast recovery diode on the -15v rail apparently short circuit. Cutting one leg showed me that the short was further in and not the diode - likely the reservoir capacitor. Sure enough a 1000 uF / 25 volt electrolytic was dead short circuit - fortunately I had several in stock so changed it.
On bench testing showed the rails were all a bit low, but maybe they always were ! So I re-assembled it and crossed my fingers!
Whoopee - we have lift off - not only has it come back to life but the parameters were preserved - happy days !
There was a bit of collateral damage though - the -12 volt rail is derived from the -15 volt rail via a 7912 TO220 regulator clipped to a small heat sink - it sprang off and disapeared - much magnet searching failed to find it. I'm not over bothered - this rail draws 80 mA and it's a 1 amp regulator so I don't think that it'll over heat!
Also there is what seems to be a reset button next to one of the CPU chips on the controller board that has self disassembled - I expect I bumped it getting to supply out - it's a momentary button that I've never had need to use so being unable to be pressed probably isn't the end of the world !
So then I was able to change the back up batteries - five minute job that took several days ! - still she's up and running again thank goodness
It all started when I realised that the Parameter Backup buffer batteries were overdue a change by a couple of months - probably not an issue as I have hard copies - but I usually religiously change them every 12 months.
This has to be done with the machine powered up so the power supplies can retain the memory as you take the batteries out for replacement - fairly standard on CNC machine. Well the machine controller (Heidenhain TNC355) refused to go live - blank screen - nothing. Eventually I traced this to the reset signal from the power supply holding it stopped as the -12v and -15v rails were missing.
Hens teeth of course so priced according - best I could find was 850 Euros and lots of shipping.
Time to try and fix it! First I set up a three cell battery pack to supply the 4.5 volts for the parameter ram:
Power supply extracted from the controller:
A bit of poking about with meter and 'scope and I found a high current fast recovery diode on the -15v rail apparently short circuit. Cutting one leg showed me that the short was further in and not the diode - likely the reservoir capacitor. Sure enough a 1000 uF / 25 volt electrolytic was dead short circuit - fortunately I had several in stock so changed it.
On bench testing showed the rails were all a bit low, but maybe they always were ! So I re-assembled it and crossed my fingers!
Whoopee - we have lift off - not only has it come back to life but the parameters were preserved - happy days !
There was a bit of collateral damage though - the -12 volt rail is derived from the -15 volt rail via a 7912 TO220 regulator clipped to a small heat sink - it sprang off and disapeared - much magnet searching failed to find it. I'm not over bothered - this rail draws 80 mA and it's a 1 amp regulator so I don't think that it'll over heat!
Also there is what seems to be a reset button next to one of the CPU chips on the controller board that has self disassembled - I expect I bumped it getting to supply out - it's a momentary button that I've never had need to use so being unable to be pressed probably isn't the end of the world !
So then I was able to change the back up batteries - five minute job that took several days ! - still she's up and running again thank goodness
Blobber
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- lincolnshire
Great result and a massive cash save!My Beaver Partsmaster CNC Mill is back working
It all started when I realised that the Parameter Backup buffer batteries were overdue a change by a couple of months - probably not an issue as I have hard copies - but I usually religiously change them every 12 months.
View attachment 423002
This has to be done with the machine powered up so the power supplies can retain the memory as you take the batteries out for replacement - fairly standard on CNC machine. Well the machine controller (Heidenhain TNC355) refused to go live - blank screen - nothing. Eventually I traced this to the reset signal from the power supply holding it stopped as the -12v and -15v rails were missing.
Hens teeth of course so priced according - best I could find was 850 Euros and lots of shipping.
Time to try and fix it! First I set up a three cell battery pack to supply the 4.5 volts for the parameter ram:
View attachment 423003
Power supply extracted from the controller:
View attachment 423004
View attachment 423006
A bit of poking about with meter and 'scope and I found a high current fast recovery diode on the -15v rail apparently short circuit. Cutting one leg showed me that the short was further in and not the diode - likely the reservoir capacitor. Sure enough a 1000 uF / 25 volt electrolytic was dead short circuit - fortunately I had several in stock so changed it.
View attachment 423007
On bench testing showed the rails were all a bit low, but maybe they always were ! So I re-assembled it and crossed my fingers!
Whoopee - we have lift off - not only has it come back to life but the parameters were preserved - happy days !
There was a bit of collateral damage though - the -12 volt rail is derived from the -15 volt rail via a 7912 TO220 regulator clipped to a small heat sink - it sprang off and disapeared - much magnet searching failed to find it. I'm not over bothered - this rail draws 80 mA and it's a 1 amp regulator so I don't think that it'll over heat!
View attachment 423009
Also there is what seems to be a reset button next to one of the CPU chips on the controller board that has self disassembled - I expect I bumped it getting to supply out - it's a momentary button that I've never had need to use so being unable to be pressed probably isn't the end of the world !
View attachment 423010
View attachment 423011
So then I was able to change the back up batteries - five minute job that took several days ! - still she's up and running again thank goodness View attachment 423005 View attachment 423008
ajlelectronics
Member
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- Gloucester, England
Mine failed in the same place.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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- 12,939
- Location
- NE London - UK
Well done, Andrew. I'm glad your mojo has started to return.My Beaver Partsmaster CNC Mill is back working
It all started when I realised that the Parameter Backup buffer batteries were overdue a change by a couple of months - probably not an issue as I have hard copies - but I usually religiously change them every 12 months.
View attachment 423002
This has to be done with the machine powered up so the power supplies can retain the memory as you take the batteries out for replacement - fairly standard on CNC machine. Well the machine controller (Heidenhain TNC355) refused to go live - blank screen - nothing. Eventually I traced this to the reset signal from the power supply holding it stopped as the -12v and -15v rails were missing.
Hens teeth of course so priced according - best I could find was 850 Euros and lots of shipping.
Time to try and fix it! First I set up a three cell battery pack to supply the 4.5 volts for the parameter ram:
View attachment 423003
Power supply extracted from the controller:
View attachment 423004
View attachment 423006
A bit of poking about with meter and 'scope and I found a high current fast recovery diode on the -15v rail apparently short circuit. Cutting one leg showed me that the short was further in and not the diode - likely the reservoir capacitor. Sure enough a 1000 uF / 25 volt electrolytic was dead short circuit - fortunately I had several in stock so changed it.
View attachment 423007
On bench testing showed the rails were all a bit low, but maybe they always were ! So I re-assembled it and crossed my fingers!
Whoopee - we have lift off - not only has it come back to life but the parameters were preserved - happy days !
There was a bit of collateral damage though - the -12 volt rail is derived from the -15 volt rail via a 7912 TO220 regulator clipped to a small heat sink - it sprang off and disapeared - much magnet searching failed to find it. I'm not over bothered - this rail draws 80 mA and it's a 1 amp regulator so I don't think that it'll over heat!
View attachment 423009
Also there is what seems to be a reset button next to one of the CPU chips on the controller board that has self disassembled - I expect I bumped it getting to supply out - it's a momentary button that I've never had need to use so being unable to be pressed probably isn't the end of the world !
View attachment 423010
View attachment 423011
So then I was able to change the back up batteries - five minute job that took several days ! - still she's up and running again thank goodness View attachment 423005 View attachment 423008
Red'n'Black
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- Malvern, Worcs
My chainsaw, Husqvarna 141.
Fresh tank of fuel, did two cuts then revved its head off and died.
Sure enough, fuel line had crumbled to bits inside the tank.
Getting the new piece in was a bit of a faff, it was too floppy to go through the hole (fnar fnar) a length of steel wire inside the tubing sorted it.
Took the plug out and spun it over with a drill to prime the carb. Buttoned it all up and started first pull
Name plate says made in 1999, it owes me nothing.
Fresh tank of fuel, did two cuts then revved its head off and died.
Sure enough, fuel line had crumbled to bits inside the tank.
Getting the new piece in was a bit of a faff, it was too floppy to go through the hole (fnar fnar) a length of steel wire inside the tubing sorted it.
Took the plug out and spun it over with a drill to prime the carb. Buttoned it all up and started first pull
Name plate says made in 1999, it owes me nothing.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
This came my way the other week.
It was complete, a rare thing recently.
If it is not complete be ready to spend money on getting parts.
When getting theses working there is a few steps I always follow.
I always get a service kit, this will have all the seals and washers you need. Plus a pack of mantles.
This one had a good washer, a quick soak in warm Veg oil had it nice a soft. I also striped the None return Valve down.
A quick test showed the pump is work, but if you do a good job on the NRV it will not give an issue. If it does it will show when the tank is pressurized. By the rod being pushed out .
Flush the fuel tank out, I use Solvent based clutch and brake cleaner.
Place the tank, in this state, up to the control valve, in a bucket of water and give the pump 20 strokes. Any leaks will show. The tank can be repaired, but it can be difficult.
To check the vaporizer out.
Fill the tank half full with good paraffin, or lamp oil. Give the pump 40 strokes. Check for leaks on the control valve, tank area and the joint between the valve and vaporizer.
Take it outside and open the valve a bit and a straight clean jet of fuel should come out. If not a new vaporizer is needed.
This one worked, but I striped it down and used a oven cleaner to give it a clean.
Most lamps do not have mantles, this one did. it was also in good condition.
So we took a gamble and used it.
Original Glass, it just needed a good clean.
The dimpled item is the pressure indicator, when working it will rise up and it will show you when correct pressure is reached. I drop of light oil will not go amis.
Fill the tank 3/4 full and give the pump 40 pumps.
Soak the pre heater in Meths, fit and light.
Now wait.
When the pre-heater is all but out, open the control valve and it should burst into life with a poip and then settle down to a gentle hiss.
Just warming up.
We had a annoying leak, so i turned the lamp off. I was lucky I was able to nip the knurled part up. The new seals just needed to settle.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Running with the control valve just opened.
Nice white bright light with a gentle hiss.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
This sales man Automatic Pig feeder demo unit came my way.
There is no information on the WWW, so I don't know if it is complete. But I soon found out it had been messed around a lot.
The item on the RHS seams to be a geared timer, it also showed me it was a 240Vac unit.
All the moving parts were taken apart, freed up, lubricated.
It was a good mental work out.
This item should do something, but it seams to have no function. Hence why I think parts are missing.
Even the box was cleaned up.
I got it working.
The horizontal motor turns, the worm gear moves and the cam (RHS) operates the vertical arm(spring one) and this pulls the cross bar.
That moves this drop arm what engages the wheel with the 4 brass studs.
That drives, through 2 gears the feed dispenser. A slotted tube in the brass tube on show.
It even has the feed tray.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
The transport box came out of the vapor tank in good clean condition.
French polish and wax. I also replaced the felt feet on the bottom.
A new suitable mains connector is on order.
Not quite fixed yet 
but very nearly !
I found this in the spindle of a thingy i've been cleaning up and removing grinding grit from. I was worried all the balls were just going to pop out as I got it removed from the spindle sleeve. So far total luck has prevailed !
Stu
but very nearly ! I found this in the spindle of a thingy i've been cleaning up and removing grinding grit from. I was worried all the balls were just going to pop out as I got it removed from the spindle sleeve. So far total luck has prevailed !
Stu
When we got married we fitted a new kitchen in our refurbished bungalow. Some time later Jewsons phoned us to tell us there was an issue with the glue used in the doors - bit like yours. They changed them all foc...It's taken a few weeks, but I've started fixing this mess.
View attachment 422446
That's a 5 year old kitchen end panel from the supplier that advertises themselves as the UK's No1 kitchen retailer, and whilst that ones really bad, all of the doors and panels have delamination to some degree.
I'd normally be blinking annoyed about these failing so soon. But, as I've had almost the entire cost of the kitchen refunded due to supplier errors and mistakes, I'm not complaining (as much).
I've tried resticking them before, but the laminate appears to be slightly shrunk on, so you end up with gaps, and it never fully comes off either, so getting it stuck back down properly never works.
So, in a first step to putting it right, I got some paint matched in the same colour (costly, and I had my doubts on how good a match it would be), and as a bit of a trial run I made a couple of new panels from a sheet of MDF which was knocking around.
Handily, these ones go down the side of the washing machine, so that seemed like a good place to see what was achievable, without it being obvious if my efforts were a disaster.
View attachment 422444View attachment 422443
Which today finally got fitted.
View attachment 422445
I'm pretty pleased with that. In fact I know they're not the originals, but I still can't tell the difference (excuse the rubbish photo). Credit where its due to the paint shop guy. That's the most I've ever spent on a tin of paint, but it went on beautifully (sprayed with a Wagner FLEXiO electric spray gun), and the colour match is spot on, plus there's enough left to do the rest of the house, so it was well worth it in my book.
Now I know what's achievable, my plan is to wait until the others unstick themselves a bit more (which they will!) and then try removing any remaining laminate and reusing the door blanks to save making new, and if I can't get a decent finish on them, I'll just make replacements as above.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
Welded some brackets to gates for some bloke.
I asked the bloke where he wanted them welding on, then he realised he'd got them in the wrong place, so welded some more on.
I asked the bloke where he wanted them welding on, then he realised he'd got them in the wrong place, so welded some more on.
Sergei Slovenija
Member
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Made! Another item on the list has been crossed out.
An attempt to convert a large band saw into a vertical one
I took some measurements, and there is a good chance that I could get by with a spacer ring to give the saw blade a vertical position. Luckily, I found an old brake rotor and a lathe in my scrap pile. You may have to saw off the protrusion into which the bolt is screwed in to limit the lift of...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
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The generator "shed" roof at the stables has only lasted 11 years so made and fitted a new one.
Before
After
so made and fitted a new one.Before
After
