Melvyn Best
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- Thread starter qwakers
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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So was Eastenders!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!It must have been true, it was on the TV
zeppelin builder
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- 2,179
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- peoples republic of scotland
fixed an old pair of odd leg calipers today . crushed up an old carbide insert wrapped in a rag in the vice
and carefully silver soldered it to the leg , quick shape up with a green stone and it will now scribe the hardest materials
and carefully silver soldered it to the leg , quick shape up with a green stone and it will now scribe the hardest materials
Olderisbetter
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- 3,936
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- Wolverhampton
Fixed the noises on the VW LT35 new wish bones, shocks, drop links and track rod ends both sides, and all bushes as age has got to them, just a clutch check and clutch bearing to sort and then some new tyres.
Blue Chips
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- 728
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- Maine, USA
Rejuvenating a vintage adjustable level.
I like having different sizes (lengths) of levels on hand when I’m working on a construction or remodeling project, and I’m now in the process of replacing my non-adjustable levels (which sometimes aren't quite as accurate as I'd like) with old vintage levels of good quality that can be obtained at a reasonable price and adjusted for accuracy. I already have a couple of rather nice adjustable machinist levels that are very accurate, but I wouldn’t abuse them by using them for construction or remodeling.
I bought this old Stanley No. 237 adjustable aluminum level for $21 (plus shipping) on eBay, and it arrived a couple of days ago. It was very dirty and spattered with the dried remnants of ancient projects, but I didn’t see any significant damage, and all of the glass vials were intact. I’m not sure of the exact date, but I think this model was first introduced ca.1915. I decided to give it a quick overhaul. This involved a thorough cleaning, truing the top and bottom, checking the level and plumb glasses for accuracy, and adjusting if necessary. Also dabbed a bit of new paint on it here and there.
Note: To adjust the bubbles on this level, either of the two tapered screws securing the ends of the nickel-plated brass case that contains the glass vial (for either the level glass or the plumb glasses) can be loosened, allowing a small piece of shim stock to be placed between the case and either of the two milled seats. The tapered screws are then re-tightened and the bubble re-checked for accuracy. Here is a link to a 1920 catalogue showing the level at the bottom of page 40: https://archive.org/details/stanleytoolsforc00stan/page/40/mode/2up
This is how the level looked when I received it...grimy but basically serviceable.
Here's the level after I removed the traces of old paint from the frame with solvent and gave it a good scrubbing (no media blasting or harsh abrasives).
The top and bottom of the frame were already relatively straight/flat/square/parallel, but it just needed a little touch-up by hand in some places. I checked it with Dykem Hi-Spot, a granite surface plate, and the usual measuring tools (dial gauge, machinist square, caliper, etc.). I'm not a particularly fast worker, so it took at least an hour to true it up to my satisfaction. Probably way overkill for a carpenter level, but I like playing in the shop, so time well spent, IMHO.
Here's the level after painting and reassembly. I think the nickel plating on the brass glass/vial holders cleaned up pretty well, while displaying a nice patina of age.
I'm happy with the accuracy.
All three of the glass vials are now spot-on and should be quite accurate for this kind of level. It's a good tool that will get used.
I think I may rescue another old level soon...maybe a wood-and-brass one. Stay tuned.
I like having different sizes (lengths) of levels on hand when I’m working on a construction or remodeling project, and I’m now in the process of replacing my non-adjustable levels (which sometimes aren't quite as accurate as I'd like) with old vintage levels of good quality that can be obtained at a reasonable price and adjusted for accuracy. I already have a couple of rather nice adjustable machinist levels that are very accurate, but I wouldn’t abuse them by using them for construction or remodeling.
I bought this old Stanley No. 237 adjustable aluminum level for $21 (plus shipping) on eBay, and it arrived a couple of days ago. It was very dirty and spattered with the dried remnants of ancient projects, but I didn’t see any significant damage, and all of the glass vials were intact. I’m not sure of the exact date, but I think this model was first introduced ca.1915. I decided to give it a quick overhaul. This involved a thorough cleaning, truing the top and bottom, checking the level and plumb glasses for accuracy, and adjusting if necessary. Also dabbed a bit of new paint on it here and there.
Note: To adjust the bubbles on this level, either of the two tapered screws securing the ends of the nickel-plated brass case that contains the glass vial (for either the level glass or the plumb glasses) can be loosened, allowing a small piece of shim stock to be placed between the case and either of the two milled seats. The tapered screws are then re-tightened and the bubble re-checked for accuracy. Here is a link to a 1920 catalogue showing the level at the bottom of page 40: https://archive.org/details/stanleytoolsforc00stan/page/40/mode/2up
This is how the level looked when I received it...grimy but basically serviceable.
Here's the level after I removed the traces of old paint from the frame with solvent and gave it a good scrubbing (no media blasting or harsh abrasives).
The top and bottom of the frame were already relatively straight/flat/square/parallel, but it just needed a little touch-up by hand in some places. I checked it with Dykem Hi-Spot, a granite surface plate, and the usual measuring tools (dial gauge, machinist square, caliper, etc.). I'm not a particularly fast worker, so it took at least an hour to true it up to my satisfaction. Probably way overkill for a carpenter level, but I like playing in the shop, so time well spent, IMHO.
Here's the level after painting and reassembly. I think the nickel plating on the brass glass/vial holders cleaned up pretty well, while displaying a nice patina of age.
I'm happy with the accuracy.
All three of the glass vials are now spot-on and should be quite accurate for this kind of level. It's a good tool that will get used.I think I may rescue another old level soon...maybe a wood-and-brass one. Stay tuned.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This Brickies hammer was liberated by me. I knew it needed work.
Oh well.
It did not take any effort to remove the dead shaft.
A day or two(7)
Melvyn Best
Member
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- 1,835
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- Cambridge
How about a step by step tutorial on fitting hammer shafts? I’m never very happy with any I’ve done
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This set of bean scales came my way. It needed some work.
I even got the weights as well.
I also got the bubble stick.
A picture what hides a lot of work done.
The leveling feet had been crosed threaded. It took about 45 minutes to free the 3 off.
The thrads are now lubicated withbee's wax.
The wooden parts were cleaned with warm water, then "Meths". Then a wax/oil mix was applied. The working parts were removed and freed off.
Do not look at the dried metal polish on the wooden base.
The trays are brass, as are the hangers.
The black parts are brass, with a chalk board paint finish.
The weights were finished a few weeks ago.
This was a nice repair.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Both had the same issue, the valve was loose and leaked in the off postion.
I removed both valves, cleaned the crud off and polished them in with 2000 grit cutting compond. Then refitted and tested.
Currently working my way through a box of knackered clamps of various types. Liberated from work when we were having a tidy up. Most are just bent, some I may be able to make 1 good one out of a couple of broken ones. The ones I did today would probably cost $250 + to buy.
8PM fixer upper for a local farmer. Three lorries due to be loaded the next day and the box rotator shat itself. It only shat itself because the moron driving it insists upon opening up the flow reducer leading to shock loading. I told him to replace the adjustable restrictor with an inline spanner adjusted one (and threadlock), and then replace the moron with a lesser moron.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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A Norberts dead Stove.
One he brought as spares or repairs.
I think I know why it does not work.
So a rumage in my spares.
Fear not small human. mummy.
Stand back small human.
This is normal, as it warms up you may get runaway. Worry not.
The pump washer was good, the NRV needed a clean, thats all.
Plus spares.
And we are cooking on paraffin.
One he brought as spares or repairs.
I think I know why it does not work.
So a rumage in my spares.
Fear not small human. mummy.
Stand back small human.
This is normal, as it warms up you may get runaway. Worry not.
The pump washer was good, the NRV needed a clean, thats all.
Plus spares.
And we are cooking on paraffin.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Ok as I had that box of spares out, lets fis my new to me stove.
Ok, please not the brass burner cap and the wire.
Cn we see what is wrong?
Yes a fuel leak, also the cap is orange hot. On 'ts way to white. Plus the pump rod is being pushed out.
We then get a flame out and the flame sucks back. When this happens I take big steps in the direction of away. taking small human.
A coffee later and we return. Small human thinks this is great fun.
Using steel wire to hold the cap down, to stop it falling off is not good, it is bad.
The brass can not expand, so it over heats and melts.
The correct cap and you get a good hot flame.
Ok, please not the brass burner cap and the wire.
Cn we see what is wrong?
Yes a fuel leak, also the cap is orange hot. On 'ts way to white. Plus the pump rod is being pushed out.
We then get a flame out and the flame sucks back. When this happens I take big steps in the direction of away. taking small human.
A coffee later and we return. Small human thinks this is great fun.
Using steel wire to hold the cap down, to stop it falling off is not good, it is bad.
The brass can not expand, so it over heats and melts.
The correct cap and you get a good hot flame.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This was in a box of bits, that came my way.
So.
Then a .............
Finally.
It was, they say.......
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- 13,284
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- Hertfordshire UK
I fixed my Stihl saw today as it came back broken and worn out after I lent it to a friend 
The dust suppression water banjo was broken.
I thought a brake banjo would do the job but I couldn't find a 1.0mm fine pitch nut to go with it and can't make one.
I found a 1.5mm pitch M10 bolt and through drilled it in the South Bend, then filed a flat on it and cross drilled it.
I machined it shorter so it wouldn't hit the diamond blade when fitted.
Unfortunately the 3mm hole I drilled was to big and starved the opposite side jet of water!
So I made another and drilled it 1.5mm, this was too small and didn't flow anything so I tried 2mm and that was perfect!
It was when I tried to use the saw that I found the blade that should look like this
Looked like this!
I'm not happy as you can imagine!
The dust suppression water banjo was broken.
I thought a brake banjo would do the job but I couldn't find a 1.0mm fine pitch nut to go with it and can't make one.
I found a 1.5mm pitch M10 bolt and through drilled it in the South Bend, then filed a flat on it and cross drilled it.
I machined it shorter so it wouldn't hit the diamond blade when fitted.
Unfortunately the 3mm hole I drilled was to big and starved the opposite side jet of water!
So I made another and drilled it 1.5mm, this was too small and didn't flow anything so I tried 2mm and that was perfect!
It was when I tried to use the saw that I found the blade that should look like this
Looked like this!
I'm not happy as you can imagine!
