cardiffrob
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I'd be happy to trade Gas/Electric bills if you want, Dennis? 
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
8ob
Member
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- Nescient in the vale
Ongoing job fixing a mates leaky pond. Fish have eaten away at the retaining bund so working our way around the outside with Gabon’s ,sat them on a mix of crushed recycled concrete and as dug sand to form a silt seal,
Snap of some on another section done a few years ago.
Snap of some on another section done a few years ago.
slim_boy_fat
Member
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- Scottish Highlands
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Not allowed expensses.Wot, no duck house?
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
Ducks are cheap.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Fixed that for you.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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This old, tired,broken, rusty and unloved mamod came my way the other week.
I knew there was many things wrong with it, it took a cup of coffee time to haggle a fair price.
Steam pipes are brokjen and missing. The nut style fitting on top of the boiler is not avaiable to buy to fix.
the leval plug was missing and the threads damaged.
The whistle was seized.
A drive pully was missing.
The Meccoan angle plates are there as the base has split, a know fault.
Oh yes there was 20% of the fixings missing.
So IU aquired an engine for bits. This images shows the replacement engine. S the Post office managed to "Damage" the one I ordered. The seller sent that as a replacement.
It will be restored, as it needs less to do than mine.
The trick to line up the bores, before soldering is to ram a bit of grease covered Mig wore up the pipes.
Fixed, in steam and running a treat. But the base plate was flexing badly.
Striped.
Being rebuilt. The plate had the cracks carbon arc brazed, by a good friend.
I had to raid my limted stock of Brass BA fittings to replace the missing items.
The stamped plate has to line up correctly, or the fly wheel will bind in the slot.
Rebuilt safety valve, ne boss and leval plug. The whistle is still stiff to operate, but it does work.
Not the best iamge, it developed a bad vibration when running at full power. Not unknown, but frustrating.
ll you can do is make sure all the parts are in line, running freely and the seals are steam tight.
New seals can fail if they are not fitted correctly.
Running nicly now. A few adjustments are made when running. To the pistion fixings, steam valve fixxing. Plus a few tweeks to the valves, level and whistles.
Last edited:
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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For those who are interested.
This is the replacement spare part engine in steam.
Main steam collection port resoldered, level plug soldered into place.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Most of the following was done my MIS members, there cares team.
All I did was advise, drink coffee and dealt with life forms.
In no order than the are on the hard drive, external.
The item here is the Bubble stick.
Striped, cleaned and the galss bubble trued up by re setting it in white putty. A hard wax and a good polish.
Try to fing a good steel blade draw knife is getting harder. So when I find one I get it.
Even in this state the edge is good, no worm and not bent.
Lots of hard work, a good wet stone, lots of wax and we have a edge that is VERY sharp. The curve in the blade is not from use, but as designed. It is for removing bark and young sap wood on green sticks.
30mm Russian HE shell case.
A introduction to the bench grinder wire wheel.
That dent would not come out, oh well.
The MIS member now knows why, when using a polishing mop, gloves are needed.
Why?
Because she turned this Cival Defence foam Nozzle from this:
To this. She even made up a new leather seal for it.
All I did was advise, drink coffee and dealt with life forms.
In no order than the are on the hard drive, external.
The item here is the Bubble stick.
Striped, cleaned and the galss bubble trued up by re setting it in white putty. A hard wax and a good polish.
Try to fing a good steel blade draw knife is getting harder. So when I find one I get it.
Even in this state the edge is good, no worm and not bent.
Lots of hard work, a good wet stone, lots of wax and we have a edge that is VERY sharp. The curve in the blade is not from use, but as designed. It is for removing bark and young sap wood on green sticks.
30mm Russian HE shell case.
A introduction to the bench grinder wire wheel.
That dent would not come out, oh well.
The MIS member now knows why, when using a polishing mop, gloves are needed.
Why?
Because she turned this Cival Defence foam Nozzle from this:
To this. She even made up a new leather seal for it.
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- 12,801
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- Hertfordshire UK
A couple of weeks on from doing the boys Toyota Aygo service where I noticed a leaky water pump we got the parts and fixed that today, the pump mounting flange was rusting around the rubber seal and weeping from there. New pump, new aux belt, coolant and bottom rad hose and we're done.
Might need to burp the radiator tomorrow though.
Might need to burp the radiator tomorrow though.
8ob
Member
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- 14,202
- Location
- Nescient in the vale
There is an island, a few years ago it was so overgrown nothing could get on it so we cleared it.Wot, no duck house?
Ripped all of the willow and fallen trees out of the pond with that winch I made. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/timber-winch.69155/#post-
916397
Today I (hopefully!) fixed an annoying oil weep from the seal on the front steering knuckle of my 1995 JCB 3CX. It wasn't a torrent but enough to be annoying.
The drive shaft has a seal as it leave the axle, and on the far side of the dual UJ arrangement there is another seal where it enters the final drive planetary gear box.
Job involves removing the steering knuckle that is supported top and bottom by taper roller bearings. The bearing sit on a peg on a trunion that fixes with four bolts and a cylindrical housing. The low trunion plate is notoriously hard to remove - theoretically you remove four bolts and pull it out of it's housing and this works for the upper one, but one at the bottom usually is jammed solid. And yes mine was jammed
Now asking for help on the Facebook Vintage JCB forum produced the suggestion to remove the upper one, place a pair of thick washers under the peg in the housing, and replace the upper trunion, where upon if you crank down on the bolts thee lower one will move enough to get a cold chisel in as a wedge to drive it out.
Up at crack of dawn to try and sure enough it worked - oh the power of the internet
Even so it was a full day - 07:00 to 18:30 and no stopping for lunch but it's all back together and statically it's sealing fine. Yet to drive the machine but that's for tomorrow - I needed a few beers !
The drive shaft has a seal as it leave the axle, and on the far side of the dual UJ arrangement there is another seal where it enters the final drive planetary gear box.
Job involves removing the steering knuckle that is supported top and bottom by taper roller bearings. The bearing sit on a peg on a trunion that fixes with four bolts and a cylindrical housing. The low trunion plate is notoriously hard to remove - theoretically you remove four bolts and pull it out of it's housing and this works for the upper one, but one at the bottom usually is jammed solid. And yes mine was jammed
Now asking for help on the Facebook Vintage JCB forum produced the suggestion to remove the upper one, place a pair of thick washers under the peg in the housing, and replace the upper trunion, where upon if you crank down on the bolts thee lower one will move enough to get a cold chisel in as a wedge to drive it out.
Up at crack of dawn to try and sure enough it worked - oh the power of the internet
Even so it was a full day - 07:00 to 18:30 and no stopping for lunch but it's all back together and statically it's sealing fine. Yet to drive the machine but that's for tomorrow - I needed a few beers !
Three Ibuprofen and two Old Speckled Hens and I'm almost back to normal. Too much rolling about on the floor at my age
One issue was to take the considerable weight of the hub / knuckle assembly the engine crane needs to be in line with the axle, which is just where you need to be to grovel on the floor wielding durn great hammers and cold chisels !
One issue was to take the considerable weight of the hub / knuckle assembly the engine crane needs to be in line with the axle, which is just where you need to be to grovel on the floor wielding durn great hammers and cold chisels !
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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I got theses a few weeks ago, I knew they were seized, but the jaws were still in good condition.
What was pleasing ws it was only one joint that was seized. The locking bar one.
Boiled up in Citic acid and hard waxed.
This set was sent to be and to be honest there was not much to do to it.
Spot the part what was not clean enough to take the new "Blackening".
