No ,sorry,I bought the first one ,for the camper at a show,10 years ago,that has since gone onto ,either the forklift or telehandler,due to getting a bigger one for the camper,just pick a reputable seller from amazon or eBay,with UK stock ,they’re all made in China ,once you go larger than about 5 watt,you need a charge regulator and use secure and insulated terminals.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
I've partially fixed the ABS light MOT failure on my boys runaround. It got picked up because it didn't come on.
Well I've fixed that by undoing someone's previous fix.
Now I just need to get the light to go back off again like it should.
Can you guess which ones the ABS light?
Well I've fixed that by undoing someone's previous fix.
Now I just need to get the light to go back off again like it should.
Can you guess which ones the ABS light?
Dcal
Member
- Messages
- 4,070
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I fixed my tig torch
New switch
and new head,
The head started leaking coolant a while ago so I ordered a cheap replacement and just used it as an air-cooled torch.
Had to get it sorted when the gas started coming out of the handle.
You can see why these are a consumable.
This at least let me finish the weld to the chipper feed roller.
Rubbish welding, but it was a pain to get at. (That's my excuse anyway)
New switch
and new head,
The head started leaking coolant a while ago so I ordered a cheap replacement and just used it as an air-cooled torch.
Had to get it sorted when the gas started coming out of the handle.
You can see why these are a consumable.
This at least let me finish the weld to the chipper feed roller.
Rubbish welding, but it was a pain to get at. (That's my excuse anyway)
James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,418
- Location
- Orkney
I may have wired them into the oil light before now….
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,574
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
Two fixes, although neither of them were today, I just didn't get round to posting them until today.
1. Had a split in the pipe from the suds pump on my lathe. Replacing the pipe would have meant removing all the metal bar stock that's stored behind the lathe and the rack its all on, then removing the back panel of the lathe and it still would have involved some gymnastics to get to the motor. It seemed simpler to turn a couple of bits of steel tube and use it to splice some pipe I had lying around in the middle:
I don't use the pump much to be honest (the pipe broke more than a year ago and it hasn't bothered me enough to fix it), but it's handy for knurling as the continuous flow (at a very slow rate) stops bits of crud from clogging up the teeth and ruining the knurl.
With that fixed, I could get on with
2. A new screw for a hand plane:
I recently acquired a Stanley #45 with one screw missing. After some research (for which read: asking on a woodworking forum), it turned out that the thread is a 60° #10-28. According to my thread table, that's not a standard thread, but it should be the same diameter as a UNF #10-32 (4.83 mm), so I made the screw above as 4.82 mm × 28 TPI. I based the depth of cut on being halfway between what my thread cutting table says for 0.8 mm pitch and what it says for 1.0 mm pitch (28 TPI is about 0.91 mm pitch) and it fitted first time, so that was quite satisfying. It goes in the fence and is used to lock the fence position fine adjuster:
1. Had a split in the pipe from the suds pump on my lathe. Replacing the pipe would have meant removing all the metal bar stock that's stored behind the lathe and the rack its all on, then removing the back panel of the lathe and it still would have involved some gymnastics to get to the motor. It seemed simpler to turn a couple of bits of steel tube and use it to splice some pipe I had lying around in the middle:
I don't use the pump much to be honest (the pipe broke more than a year ago and it hasn't bothered me enough to fix it), but it's handy for knurling as the continuous flow (at a very slow rate) stops bits of crud from clogging up the teeth and ruining the knurl.
With that fixed, I could get on with
2. A new screw for a hand plane:
I recently acquired a Stanley #45 with one screw missing. After some research (for which read: asking on a woodworking forum), it turned out that the thread is a 60° #10-28. According to my thread table, that's not a standard thread, but it should be the same diameter as a UNF #10-32 (4.83 mm), so I made the screw above as 4.82 mm × 28 TPI. I based the depth of cut on being halfway between what my thread cutting table says for 0.8 mm pitch and what it says for 1.0 mm pitch (28 TPI is about 0.91 mm pitch) and it fitted first time, so that was quite satisfying. It goes in the fence and is used to lock the fence position fine adjuster:
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,633
- Location
- Keeler crater
My boring head. Turns out the arbor is just glued into the head with a grub screw to stop it falling off should the glue break, which it did when I crashed it the other day. Easy repair, dismantle, soak in thinners then reglue. Good as new.
Of course by glue I mean Loctite 638.
Of course by glue I mean Loctite 638.
Prajna
Fixing things for the love of it
- Messages
- 682
- Location
- Castelo Branco, Portugal
I didn't fix it today but today was the first chance I had to photograph it. Sgt Ze gets a little frustrated with logs that are just a tad oversized for the space available in the wood burner sometimes. And sometimes he will give them an encouraging kick before trying to close the doors on them. The result was a dented back plate to the firebox and a big split between the back and the floor.
I set to with a chunk of 4mm channel, which I cut a length of angle from with my 4" cordless grinder. I had also brought with me a handful of 2.5mm Bohler Fox 6013s that a friend gave me.
Prepping was very messy. Even cleaning out the firebox with a vacuum cleaner didn't prevent the dining room from choking with ash when I set to with the angle grinder. In the end I had to use my resperator an I pity Bea, who was left to clean up and dust down.
So I welded the angle over the crack and then cut out a few plates to cover the dents above the angle. Ze says it works great and no fumes.
I set to with a chunk of 4mm channel, which I cut a length of angle from with my 4" cordless grinder. I had also brought with me a handful of 2.5mm Bohler Fox 6013s that a friend gave me.
Prepping was very messy. Even cleaning out the firebox with a vacuum cleaner didn't prevent the dining room from choking with ash when I set to with the angle grinder. In the end I had to use my resperator an I pity Bea, who was left to clean up and dust down.
So I welded the angle over the crack and then cut out a few plates to cover the dents above the angle. Ze says it works great and no fumes.
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
- Messages
- 1,958
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Not fixed as such coz it wasn't broken but changed my Freelander 2's timing belt and waterpump. Fiddly job which was assisted by much swearing. Never done a timing belt before despite years of car tinkering but the prices charged for this job by main dealers, and even indys made me have a crack at it. Glad I did it but an inline rather than a transverse engine must be simpler!
Did rear discs and pads too. Total price about £220 in parts, my labour = free.
Did rear discs and pads too. Total price about £220 in parts, my labour = free.
On my excavator I noticed the battery was rather low - OK it's done many starts recently without long runs but I thought I'd check if there was any leakage when everything was turned off.
Clamp meter on the battery lead and I'm measuring just under 1 amp discharge! So, as the fuse box is in the cab, and the battery isn't, I temporarily extend the lead into the cab so that I can pull one fuse at a time (there are 27!) to see which circuit is the issue while still reading the meter.
Clamber up holding the meter in my hand - what the heck - NO DISCHARGE ! Scratching my head I put the clamp meter, still round the extended battery lead, down on the floor. Hang one - discharge is back - pick it up, discharge goes - what the heck is happening.
Then it dawns on me, the clamp meter on DC measures small magnetic fields created by the current in the cable, BUT what I'm measuring is the small magnetic field of the JCB itself.
Fault fixed - well solved really - go put the battery on charge !
Clamp meter on the battery lead and I'm measuring just under 1 amp discharge! So, as the fuse box is in the cab, and the battery isn't, I temporarily extend the lead into the cab so that I can pull one fuse at a time (there are 27!) to see which circuit is the issue while still reading the meter.
Clamber up holding the meter in my hand - what the heck - NO DISCHARGE ! Scratching my head I put the clamp meter, still round the extended battery lead, down on the floor. Hang one - discharge is back - pick it up, discharge goes - what the heck is happening.
Then it dawns on me, the clamp meter on DC measures small magnetic fields created by the current in the cable, BUT what I'm measuring is the small magnetic field of the JCB itself.
Fault fixed - well solved really - go put the battery on charge !
Arc Tourist
Member
- Messages
- 5,026
- Location
- Wales
Ashamed to say, I only fixed a wobbly Anvil. Sorted it out with the surface grinder.
jsf55
Member
- Messages
- 1,831
- Location
- Sunny Swansea
Combi bog and wash basin, which fits neatly in the kitchen cupboard, is running all the time. Nightmare to work behind without removing waste side. But i managed to work through all the rusty flexi's and fill level adjuster thingy me bob that are in the cistern. 3 years old and rusted through letting it fill all the time. Replaced tap and pusher while i was in there !
Jan-DIY
Member
- Messages
- 821
- Location
- Lower Saxony Germany
Today a very actual Merkle 180A AC/DC Tig come across. Usual evidence of broken diodes or short Igbt. But all are fine. Reason was that somebody forgot a insulator between a stud which separates positive and negative output from secondary side.
Neat machine but horrible to dismantle. Also assembling will be a mess.
Neat machine but horrible to dismantle. Also assembling will be a mess.
An old school repair today.
Neighbours tractor starter motor was smoking when trying to crank.
This might be why.
New cap fitted, solenoid adjustment checked, and it mostly works.
It's still a bit reluctant to spin at times and grinds a bit, but the brushes/armature looked perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why.
It always cranks the engine, even if it takes a second or so to stop grinding and it's not a lack of engagement kind of grinding
If it stops working, I'll strip it down more for a proper look.
Neighbours tractor starter motor was smoking when trying to crank.
This might be why.
New cap fitted, solenoid adjustment checked, and it mostly works.
It's still a bit reluctant to spin at times and grinds a bit, but the brushes/armature looked perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why.
It always cranks the engine, even if it takes a second or so to stop grinding and it's not a lack of engagement kind of grinding
If it stops working, I'll strip it down more for a proper look.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,342
- Location
- Going Away.
This restoration should not have taken as long as it did, in fact I should of stopped.
This was me trying a pre-restoration light to see how bad it was.
It looked like to be a real mix and match of older and new bits. The new bits are pre 1980. The Government stamp indicates it is/was Civil defence or Disaster relief equipment. But Nothing I could find showed this pattern or build.
But More of that later.
I think this is what they say as;
Not Good.
A strip down and all seals, O rings and springs replaced. Along with a vaporiser.
It was Burning away with a nuce white light and then.......
Seals let go, allowing air in, in the wrong place and liquid paraffin to be dumped all over the new mantle.
A word to the wise.
If this happens to you.
Do Not release the tank pressure by unscrewing the pump.
You will get a lot more vapour released and then it could go bad. Just turn the control valve off and let it go out.
Me?
A quick blast with CO2 had it safe.
Coffee time.
Rebuild No2.
The tank is not brass, but alloy with a brass like electro plate on it. This makes it even more confusing as that is listed as a African version of the tank.
New mantle, OE Tilley spares. I have found aftermarket ones not to be much good.
Here we go again, coffee, fire extinguisher and fire blanket to hand. Not that I was too worried. But once bitten twice shy.
This is getting a wee bit frustrating. It blew a seal during pre heat this time.
It cracked the glass, wrecked the mantle and filled the burner with soot.
Coffee and toast time.
This time it all had to come to bits, every part was dismantled. Spares raided, old lamps dug out for spares.
This was the time I found an interesting link to Ex Civil defence stock.
At last. Burning nicly, new mantle No.3 beginning to glow. The glass is foggy as I must of left some moisture, but it soon cleared.
The liquid you see is not a leak, just me not cleaning up the last leak properly.
This Tilley lamp is a odd mix, as I said. But there is a reason.
Even through it is listed as Civil defence, it is not as clear cut as that.
The lamp is from the late 1960's and early 1970's, the height of the cold war. The UK Government was concerned that in Africa certain factions may be gaining grounds and this would not be a good thing, so NATO would supply equipment to that part in support of friendly governments.
So, with this in mind Tilley supplied, in kit forms Lamps like this one. To be assembled and used.
I am guessing at some point this was assembled and in its life as items failed replacements parts were fitted to keep it going. Or it never was sent out and was assembled to be used in the UK. We will never know for sure.
But this was a real pig
This was me trying a pre-restoration light to see how bad it was.
It looked like to be a real mix and match of older and new bits. The new bits are pre 1980. The Government stamp indicates it is/was Civil defence or Disaster relief equipment. But Nothing I could find showed this pattern or build.
But More of that later.
I think this is what they say as;
Not Good.
A strip down and all seals, O rings and springs replaced. Along with a vaporiser.
It was Burning away with a nuce white light and then.......
Seals let go, allowing air in, in the wrong place and liquid paraffin to be dumped all over the new mantle.
A word to the wise.
If this happens to you.
Do Not release the tank pressure by unscrewing the pump.
You will get a lot more vapour released and then it could go bad. Just turn the control valve off and let it go out.
Me?
A quick blast with CO2 had it safe.
Coffee time.
Rebuild No2.
The tank is not brass, but alloy with a brass like electro plate on it. This makes it even more confusing as that is listed as a African version of the tank.
New mantle, OE Tilley spares. I have found aftermarket ones not to be much good.
Here we go again, coffee, fire extinguisher and fire blanket to hand. Not that I was too worried. But once bitten twice shy.
This is getting a wee bit frustrating. It blew a seal during pre heat this time.
It cracked the glass, wrecked the mantle and filled the burner with soot.
Coffee and toast time.
This time it all had to come to bits, every part was dismantled. Spares raided, old lamps dug out for spares.
This was the time I found an interesting link to Ex Civil defence stock.
At last. Burning nicly, new mantle No.3 beginning to glow. The glass is foggy as I must of left some moisture, but it soon cleared.
The liquid you see is not a leak, just me not cleaning up the last leak properly.
This Tilley lamp is a odd mix, as I said. But there is a reason.
Even through it is listed as Civil defence, it is not as clear cut as that.
The lamp is from the late 1960's and early 1970's, the height of the cold war. The UK Government was concerned that in Africa certain factions may be gaining grounds and this would not be a good thing, so NATO would supply equipment to that part in support of friendly governments.
So, with this in mind Tilley supplied, in kit forms Lamps like this one. To be assembled and used.
I am guessing at some point this was assembled and in its life as items failed replacements parts were fitted to keep it going. Or it never was sent out and was assembled to be used in the UK. We will never know for sure.
But this was a real pig
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,342
- Location
- Going Away.
This came my way the other day, I like the design of the pressed steel handle and the small front support.
So, a quick check.
The jet was blocked, so bad it could not be cleaned. So it was replaced.
The pump cup washer was also shot, so here you can see the old and the new.
A good tip is not to use mineral oil on the washer, but cooking oil. In this case Tesco own.
Other supermarkets are available..
No, not a Tilley lamp again. This is normal during the warming up stage on this kind or torch.
IT LIVES IGOR IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So...................................
We take it to bits again and clean it up.
So we can put it together again and have more fun.
So, a quick check.
The jet was blocked, so bad it could not be cleaned. So it was replaced.
The pump cup washer was also shot, so here you can see the old and the new.
A good tip is not to use mineral oil on the washer, but cooking oil. In this case Tesco own.
Other supermarkets are available..
No, not a Tilley lamp again. This is normal during the warming up stage on this kind or torch.
IT LIVES IGOR IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So...................................
We take it to bits again and clean it up.
So we can put it together again and have more fun.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,342
- Location
- Going Away.
Got this Nu-Tool pillar drill the other day.
Must of the rust was light surface, from being sored in a damp shed.
The base plate and table were removed and my friend who owns a local garage allowed me to play on his head grinder.
It has not been used for years, took 2 hours to clean the stuff of the top.
Two pass's had the rust cleaned and the table a lot flatter than it ever was.
New belt time.
A walk to the car spares shop soon had me £7 shorter and a new 10mm x 713mm V belt.
The motor was removed and left in the Airing cupboard for a few days to make sure it was dry.
The fresh metal was sealed with bee's wax. After they had bean warmed on a stove.
Arc Tourist
Member
- Messages
- 5,026
- Location
- Wales
I finally got around to fixing the draft situation with the overhead door of the garage. I cut an old rug in half and stapled it onto a 1"x 2" batten which I then screwed onto the roof joist next to the concrete lintel. The rubberised bottom of the 20" wide carpet rides on the door slats and blocks just about all the wind, dust, and drafts from entering that end of the garage. It should also help to minimise damp air contributing to rust in the in the workshop area.
Mike Pinches
Member
- Messages
- 138
- Location
- North Wales
I'm going to copy that idea, I've been trying to think of how best to seal that gap off on my garage door. That is much quicker and simpler than anything I had thought of
